Jump to content
SAU Community

Looking At Buying A Gtr With Low Compression On 3 Cylinders.

outlaw32

By outlaw32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

outlaw32 Apprentice

outlaw32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi Guys,

I am looking at buying an r33 gtr with suspected piston ring issues, the car was blowing smoke and after some tests they found 3 cylinders had low compression but i am abit worried there could be more to this and doesnt help the car is in other state. I guess i want to be covering my own ass so to speak as i am un familiar with engines and what is involved with a car in this situation.

What would i be looking price wise for a rebuild on something like this? or is it not worth the time/money..

Edited by outlaw32
Link to comment
Share on other sites
outlaw32 Apprentice

outlaw32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok i have rang around seems for an engine rebuild im looking at 6k with forgies but by the sounds of it the turbos were running high boost the turbine wheel got into the engine and distroyed 4,5,6 cylinders.

but once the engine is out im guessing i have to do turbos then computer then pump... and so the list continues lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites
LotusGTR Veteran

LotusGTR

Posted
Posted

If you're unfamialir with engines, why stuff around with what sounds like a substandard example? GTR ownership / purchasing is potentially difficult enough without throwing in un-necessary problems for yourself. Last time I checked GTRs were at give away prices. Get a good example, and buy locally so you can see, touch feel what you're buying and FGS get a professional opinion if you don't know what you're doing. Why is the engine kapput? What else might be nearly kapput too? Lack of care and maintenance over the life of the vehicle might take its toll elsewhere too.

A bad GTR will send you to the cleaners and then to hell.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
KR4-GTR Mentor

KR4-GTR

Posted
Posted
ok i have rang around seems for an engine rebuild im looking at 6k with forgies but by the sounds of it the turbos were running high boost the turbine wheel got into the engine and distroyed 4,5,6 cylinders.

but once the engine is out im guessing i have to do turbos then computer then pump... and so the list continues lol

hi, are we able to ask what the price of the car was - out of curiosity?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted

I dont see whats so bad about buying a car with a blown engine?

Fair enough it may have been thrashed already, but 50% of that will be taken care of with a rebuild. Yes you will be infront $$ wise bigtime.

The other 50% wear and tear is in the gearbox, diffs, wheel bearings and everything else that moves and that has taken the thrashing. Thats if it even has been thrashed..maybe the owner decided to wind up 20psi one night then BANG...maybe he babied it all other times..maybe not...who knows.

Its a bit of a toss up...I bought my GTR for 5,000 and it turned out to be an immaculate example drivetrain-wise. You could buy similar, or it could be a complete piece of shit.

Make your decision based on the condition of the interior, engine bay cleanliness and general condition of the car.

I say go for it. 14k isnt too much, try and bargain him as much as you can to get further infront.

edit: 6k for a rebuild is a joke. Try 10-15k+. If you dont get it done by professionals in RB26s then you will have troubles for the rest of your life. I found out the hard way...second engine!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
LotusGTR Veteran

LotusGTR

Posted
Posted

I agree with your final comment re the price of the re-build, but add $15k+ to an asking price of $14k, plus all the hassles, plus all the unknowns......I certainly wouldn't. But that depends on your appetite for adventure I suppose.

I dont see whats so bad about buying a car with a blown engine?

Fair enough it may have been thrashed already, but 50% of that will be taken care of with a rebuild. Yes you will be infront $$ wise bigtime.

The other 50% wear and tear is in the gearbox, diffs, wheel bearings and everything else that moves and that has taken the thrashing. Thats if it even has been thrashed..maybe the owner decided to wind up 20psi one night then BANG...maybe he babied it all other times..maybe not...who knows.

Its a bit of a toss up...I bought my GTR for 5,000 and it turned out to be an immaculate example drivetrain-wise. You could buy similar, or it could be a complete piece of shit.

Make your decision based on the condition of the interior, engine bay cleanliness and general condition of the car.

I say go for it. 14k isnt too much, try and bargain him as much as you can to get further infront.

edit: 6k for a rebuild is a joke. Try 10-15k+. If you dont get it done by professionals in RB26s then you will have troubles for the rest of your life. I found out the hard way...second engine!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
shaunvlc Enthusiast

shaunvlc

Posted
Posted

r33 gtr's can be had for mid 20k. the one you are looking at buying would want to be around 15k to even be worth doing. Even then id rather spend the extra 2 or so thousand and get one that is already running. Rebuilding an enginer would be a head f**K not too mention the wait and the trust that goes into the process.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
outlaw32 Apprentice

outlaw32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

half of the gtrs that get imported have been wound back, false graded i dont see why i should trust an auction sheet on a car that could blow within a month and be in the same boat.

The car is very clean all over, usual things like plenum and stuff all clean and the overall body.

Worst case i put an engine from a halfcut in it which i can get for 3k and drive it for abit while i get the other rebuilt.

but the reason i am asking you guys is that i havnt gone down this road before and i want some input on what i would be dealing with and is it worth it.

thanks for all your feedback

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

actually, i've changed my mind. it sounds like an awesome idea. I say go for it. buy this otherwise immaculate, non-wound back, good grade 33 GTR with blown engine, get the $3K halfcut or the $6K forged rebuild and please post a thread up about the process. it'll be great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
outlaw32 Apprentice

outlaw32

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
actually, i've changed my mind. it sounds like an awesome idea. I say go for it. buy this otherwise immaculate, non-wound back, good grade 33 GTR with blown engine, get the $3K halfcut or the $6K forged rebuild and please post a thread up about the process. it'll be great.

what i was getting at is that i can spend 20+ on a car at the auctions that i know nothing about which could come here with blown parts atleast if i can see the car in the flesh and it looks great all round and the engine is gone you dont think it is a good deal for 14k and have a car with a fresh engine after it all for mid 20's.

i asked a few people who had engines for sale on here and they said 3k just for the engine not for a halfcut just the engine out of one.

i rang places today in melbourne today and i hate to name drop rajab (4.5 for a standard rebuild) RE CUSTOMS (6k with forgies) so how am i talking shit you call them and ask yourself.

good to see the community supports me in this venture rather then hates on the idea.

thanks guys.

Edited by outlaw32
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • thx78
      Boost level and torque curve

      By thx78 · Posted

      I am impressed with all this level of adjustment. I didn't expect all this possibility
    • Lithium
      Boost level and torque curve

      By Lithium · Posted

      Correct.  In the case of the 500kw dyno plot I showed you the car actually runs two boost control solenoids for boost control and a 5psi wastegate spring.  It allows me to control how much boost pressure is applied to both sides of the wastegate valve at any point and fairly accurately control boost target as a result. I've tuned it so that it's able to target anywhere from 5psi to 25psi depending on what's needed.  The target tables I've set up in that car are Gear vs RPM, so every gear has potential for a different boost (and torque) curve.   First and second gear have quite low boost targets, third gear actually has different target boost all the way through the rpm range as it's a stock RB25 gearbox - the boost targets have been chosen to maintain a peak of 600nm (what the owner has set as the maximum torque he's happy with putting through the stock 3rd gear) but it carries that to the rev limiter.   The boost curve to achieve that is something of a ramp up, then hold, then ramp up again and the power curve looks more like a flat line haha.  
    • thx78
      Boost level and torque curve

      By thx78 · Posted

      so you can decrease or increase the boost depending on the diet as you wish?     by acting on the wastegate?
    • Lithium
      Boost level and torque curve

      By Lithium · Posted

      That's torque and power, it's all from a single run.  The boost curve is "held back" from it's peak target in the 3500rpm to 5000rpm range from memory, so it ramps hard to something like 18psi then climbs more progressively to 23psi nearer 5000rpm.   It makes the torque (and power) ramp more "natural" and less hard on parts and traction, it doesn't feel artificially held back.   
    • Lithium
      Boost level and torque curve

      By Lithium · Posted

      Here's the torque curves from the car I ramped boost up later in the rpm to allow a slightly wider useful power curve - the power curve is a bit weird shaped also thanks to the TVIS (or whatever they call it with the 4EFTE in this Starlet) which changes the volume of the intake manifold throughout the rpm range, but you can see that the green power curve actually holds later on with the extra boost... but looks almost more like the kind of thing you'd expect from a cam or exhaust change
×
×
  • Create New...