Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys was flicking through ebay pages and came across these gt35r style turbo's from PCP from the info i have gathered it seems like they are a copy size wise and should do the same as 35r but for under 800 bucks am willing to give it a shot, anybody seen or heard of these before the more info/opinoinsthebetter for determining if i proceed with the buy or not

its 70ar and 63 ar rear internal gate

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/GT35-GT35R-SPEC-INT...%3A1%7C294%3A50

cheers guys

dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274123-gt35r-style-turbo-from-pcp/
Share on other sites

Its a gamble, but not really a cheap one, they dont have any warranty, so if it dies in 2 weeks, you are $800 down. If you have that sort of money to spend, i would get a holset hx35 and get it rebuilt, should be around $800

Yeah there's a warranty, but it's crap:

*3 month warranty commences from the date the item is posted.

*Any faulty item must be returned (at customer’s expense) to PCPA. If a new item is sent, customer must pay for return postage.

*Must report any manufacture faults with-in 3 days of when the item is delivered.

*Other than the faulty part, we do not take any responsibility for damages to other parts which may have been damaged.

*Warranty is only valid by a professional mechanic which has expertise in the field in which the car part is used for. A tax invoice also must be provided to give proof of the fitting.

*Warranty is void if the item is used for any type of racing or illegal street driving.

*Warranty is void if the item is altered in anyway.

*Warranty is void if any attempt has been made to repair a faulty item.

What a load of toss.......

hey guys was flicking through ebay pages and came across these gt35r style turbo's from PCP from the info i have gathered it seems like they are a copy size wise and should do the same as 35r but for under 800 bucks am willing to give it a shot, anybody seen or heard of these before the more info/opinoinsthebetter for determining if i proceed with the buy or not

its 70ar and 63 ar rear internal gate

cheers guys

dan

Well i see some problems here, apart from the fact its a ebay turbo

1. GT35 'style' does not mean GT35 performance... if anything it wont be close in terms of outright power, response, possible surge issues

2. If its indeed a 700HP comp wheel like a true GT35... then a .63 is the WRONG choice. GT35 and .63 internal gates do not mix.

3. #2 leads me to believe you have not dont turbocharge homework with regards to the housing choices/gate setup

and ye, the fact its ebay, bush bearing

As for the others talking about warranty, its performance. There is no warranty.

Just look @ Garrett's warranty as an example... there might as well not be one

As for the others talking about warranty, its performance. There is no warranty.

Just look @ Garrett's warranty as an example... there might as well not be one

This is the reason I went with Per4manz, their warranty is, "All of our units are backed by a written Warranty for a period of 12 months, 20,000km, 500 hours for new units & 6 months, 10,000km 250 hours for reconditioned units."

4 years old, 28psi, and still going strong. Gotta love it!

^ ye no.

It would still be a conditional warranty, same as Garrett's.

There is no way it would be open ended, there would be more too it

The only thing Grant stipulated with mine was that I was not to exceed the maximum boost level of the unit.

Well i see some problems here, apart from the fact its a ebay turbo

1. GT35 'style' does not mean GT35 performance... if anything it wont be close in terms of outright power, response, possible surge issues

2. If its indeed a 700HP comp wheel like a true GT35... then a .63 is the WRONG choice. GT35 and .63 internal gates do not mix.

3. #2 leads me to believe you have not dont turbocharge homework with regards to the housing choices/gate setup

and ye, the fact its ebay, bush bearing

As for the others talking about warranty, its performance. There is no warranty.

Just look @ Garrett's warranty as an example... there might as well not be one

im guessing you have had past experience with .63 housing and internal gate then. if i get a real 35r then it will be .63 housing as i want a really responsive set-up unlike making a cup of tea whilst waiting for it to reach boost threshhold lol. engine 26/30, should be on pretty early hopefully 3200rpm.

but yea, this turbo wasn't too sure about hence the topic. if you have any past history would be very keen to hear about it.

cheers

im guessing you have had past experience with .63 housing and internal gate then. if i get a real 35r then it will be .63 housing as i want a really responsive set-up unlike making a cup of tea whilst waiting for it to reach boost threshhold lol. engine 26/30, should be on pretty early hopefully 3200rpm.

but yea, this turbo wasn't too sure about hence the topic. if you have any past history would be very keen to hear about it.

cheers

why not get a .82 3076R. why get a 3582R and put such a tiny housing on it?

The only thing Grant stipulated with mine was that I was not to exceed the maximum boost level of the unit.

You should go and read the full version :)

How is there a maximum boost level anyhow, every motor is different therefore moving efficiencies across the map

im guessing you have had past experience with .63 housing and internal gate then. if i get a real 35r then it will be .63 housing as i want a really responsive set-up unlike making a cup of tea whilst waiting for it to reach boost threshhold lol. engine 26/30, should be on pretty early hopefully 3200rpm.

but yea, this turbo wasn't too sure about hence the topic. if you have any past history would be very keen to hear about it.

cheers

Not personally - but the sheer amount of users posting info is all i need.

I toyed with the smaller frame GT30, T04e etc on various motors.

If you want responsive and its on a 26/30, you are kidding yourself to run a .63 :)

Get a smaller turbo comp wheel if you want response, not a smaller rear housing (in this instance)... more reading the RB30 hybrid dyno thread :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
×
×
  • Create New...