Street Car + 400rwkw

[Jap_Muscle]

hey guys the cars making a good 400rwkw and is very much a show street car but mostly driven on weekends to shows and cruises. atm the cars main goal is going straight and not around corners as it was intended to be a street drag car. im currently running 19x10s on the car but am considering going down to 18s for the better choice of tyres.

i need some advice on who i may have to see and what sort of products i should look at.

coils are useless because they are so hard and ive heard much about 90/10 setups but how will this effect drive ability if i wanna go to the shops to pick up some milk.

any help much appreciated.

Edited June 10, 2009 by Jap_Muscle

[NYTSKY]

If you are in Sydney go to Heasmans in Tempe and tell them what you want.

They will install suspension to match.

[Jap_Muscle]

unfortunately im in melb. but maybe i should give them a call nonetheless

[scathing]

Have you considered turning the boost down when you're not on a dyno?

[Jap_Muscle]

Have you considered turning the boost down when you're not on a dyno?

thats fine and all but when when im playing with the v8 boys or the fpv guys they are pretty much at the 360-400kw range....so although you have a point it sort of defeats the purpose.

hope that makes sense

[Imtorqing]

thats fine and all but when when im playing with the v8 boys or the fpv guys they are pretty much at the 360-400kw range....so although you have a point it sort of defeats the purpose.

hope that makes sense

Its alright mate, I UNDERSTAND.........................

[Jap_Muscle]

Its alright mate, I UNDERSTAND.........................

im not sure what u mean by that comment

[scathing]

Go for a set of S-Comps. Something with a treadwear between 100-200. An R-Compound tyre will need a significant amount of heat in order to work, and doing a burnout right before you street race some Commodore will probably be even worse. An S-Comp will come almost on to temperature with regular driving. They'll also last more than a few thousand kilometres on a normal car.

You should probably aim for a more drag radial, at least in the rear, if you're only interested in going in a straight line.

Nitto 555Rs are quite popular, and were designed as a road legal drag radial.

Mickey Thompson has a few street legal radials, but I can't find a treadwear rating on them.

Otherwise, go to any S-Comp. Even with stiffened sidewalls for cornering, the rubber compound and tread pattern will still give better grip than your average street tyre. Avoid Falken RT615s as I've found their grip woeful on my NA car. But other ones like Federal 595RS-R or Toyo R1Rs should be right up your alley.

The Toyo RA1s might also suit you, but with a treadwear of 40 they won't last too long.

[Jap_Muscle]

do we have dealers who supply nitto? i thought that stuff was only sold in the US market?

[J'z-R33]

CRD can get them for you..

[scathing]

Tempe Tyres advertises Nittos on their site.

Another option would be to use a boost controller that has a "Push to Pass" button to switch to another pre-set. You could run low boost in the first few gears to help you hook up (and around those pesky corners), and then hit the switch when you're on a roll to get your full fat 400rwkW.

GReddy offer a wheel mounted switch for their Profec B EBC:

or you can use this DIY to make your own.

Just watch out for dangers to manifolds.

Edited June 12, 2009 by scathing

[_Ryan_]

Traction Tyres in rowville are highly recommended and widely used. I am pretty sure that is where Gary Cook would send you too.

I have also heard Quadrant in Berwick are good.

Techsport in Bayswater do SOME setups, they are DMS agents.

Racepace set up some nuts GTR's, for track and I am sure for street too.

Some people recommend Centreline in Thomastown

There is also GT suspension in Flemington

[Sydneykid]

Centeline would be my top recommendation, talk to Chris or Glen, then Traction Tyres talk to Andrew.

There are lots of tricks you can use to increase the rear traction;

Tyres are always #1

Then spring rates, don't go too high, 165 lbs/inch is the standard rate and there is nothing wrong with that.

Height, don't run it too low, anything under 340 mm (centre of wheel to guard) is going to be a problem.

Camber, don't run too much negative camber, if you are only doing straight line stuff then 0.5 degrees positive is the go.

Toe, run a little toe in, around 2 mm per side is OK.

Subframe alignment, add some rear squat for weight transfer, a subframe alignment kit (pineapples) is a cheap and effective upgrade.

Cheers

Gary

[Jap_Muscle]

thanks for that greg,

I'll have a chat to centreline and see what they think.

Do you think radial ryres are going to extreme for the street? How long will they last before bring useless?

Is it enough just to go radial on the rear or all 4?

Skyline drivetrains are pretty tough but can they candle 400kw with radial gyres. I'm a bit worried something might snap.

Anyone know what the 34 gtt can handle?

[R31Nismoid]

thats fine and all but when when im playing with the v8 boys or the fpv guys they are pretty much at the 360-400kw range....so although you have a point it sort of defeats the purpose.

hope that makes sense

He is actually sort of correct

thanks for that greg,

I'll have a chat to centreline and see what they think.

Do you think radial ryres are going to extreme for the street? How long will they last before bring useless?

Is it enough just to go radial on the rear or all 4?

Skyline drivetrains are pretty tough but can they candle 400kw with radial gyres. I'm a bit worried something might snap.

Anyone know what the 34 gtt can handle?

You go out trying to race on the street, on 'street drag' radials you'll eventually break stuff either way with big launches. Nothing lasts forever.

300-320rwkw with a correctly sized turbo... being you are 1. Lighter 2. Better geared diff wise 3. Would actually have proper traction on normal street tyres without resorting to street drags which you must be VERY careful with...

However being you will have 400rwkw means you'll have a big turbo... that also means that in all likelihoods - You are highly to be slower

More power does not equal faster in terms of a street car.

To be dreadfully square, what you want to achieve borders on the impossible really.

I had 370rwkw, my car is faster with 280-300rwkw on the street. Simple as that.

Prepped Drag Strip in controlled conditions - different story of course.

For the record I've had terrible experiences with Centreline and GT Suspension, so i cannot recommend them

Im very very happy with TruTrack (Nth Melb) and Traction Tyres (Rowville), both have been exactly what i'd expect from a professional business.

[Jap_Muscle]

the turbo isnt that big. its a gt35r with a .84 rear. its defiently a streetable turbo.

with a 3L bottom end i see full boost before 4000rpm. i highly doubt a 300kw car could be compared, especially 2.5L

my biggest concern (and i should have thought about it before i did the build) is drive train and gearboxes now.

i know GTRs are good for 500kws. how do the gtts fair?

is it more likely that diffs will snap or gearboxes?

Edited June 16, 2009 by Jap_Muscle

[R31Nismoid]

everyone says that until they actually get out there.

I've played with 10 sec cars upto 110km/h - they have nothing and i was putting around with 260rwkw @ the time.

Traction is everything, something you wont have with 1400kg's and 400rwkw

gearbox should be fine.

[Jap_Muscle]

everyone says that until they actually get out there.

I've played with 10 sec cars upto 110km/h - they have nothing and i was putting around with 260rwkw @ the time.

Traction is everything, something you wont have with 1400kg's and 400rwkw

gearbox should be fine.

well i guess your right. wont know for sure till its out on the road.

fingers crossed....

do you rekn the diff will be ok?

[R31Nismoid]

Stock one? Probably for a while, it'll eventually wear though, especially with rubber.

You might find it'll be quite soon if you do sticky tyres

[Sydneykid]

I had 370rwkw, my car is faster with 280-300rwkw on the street. Simple as that.

I 100% agree, I have a 650 bhp 2WD Skyline and a 450 bhp 2WD Skyline and there is absolutely no doubt that the 450 bhp one is faster on the street, no contest. My cars have the best suspension set up I can manage, with lots of sophistication in the geometry based on over 10 years of road and race Skylines. Plus I have 3 types of tyres at my disposal, a quality road set (Michelin Pilot Sport), a circuit set ("R" type in 2 compounds) and a drag set (of MT/ET Street rears) and untit I get onto a circuit or a drag strip the 450 bhp Skyline would be my choice.

Cheers

Gary