Jump to content
SAU Community

Knock Sensors

wig r31

By wig r31,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

cdorhout Newbie

cdorhout

Posted
Posted
did you actually notice any diffrences by mounting them in the higher positions??

I can't say. I moved the knock sensors right away when I built my RB30, so I couldn't compare. Since the stock sensors were right below the deck surface, I wanted to keep them in that same relative location.

GT-RZ Community Regular

GT-RZ

Posted
Posted

I think unless you need to re-tap for the 26 sensons you are wasting your time. As you know iron is very dense and has no problems transferring shock through it, especially an inch or so below the standard locations.

My best guess to why they are there would be easability of production but i could be wrong. if you look at the Standard RB30 mounting positions they appear to be exactly the same postion as RB20,25,26 so maybe given that the block is identical excluding final height they just sent it down the line and used the same tapping jig as all the others.

It may be cast there origionally with good intentions because theoretically deck height or (the furthest contacting point at the end of the stroke) would produce the largest forces as it changes direction..

i could wabble on about forces and piston speeds but it's not relevent.

Nissan in short, knows there sh*t :P and if they think the sensor is ok there then it is!!

  • 2 months later...
WHITER33GTS-T Veteran

WHITER33GTS-T

Posted
Posted

I have built up a 26/30 and have heard that there isnt any point in running knock sensors as im running haltech E11. I just want a heads upif I should put them in or not..? I have my old RB25 sensors that fit the 30 block so are they ok to use..?

Cheers

  • 3 weeks later...
proengines Rising Star

proengines

Posted
Posted
I have built up a 26/30 and have heard that there isnt any point in running knock sensors as im running haltech E11. I just want a heads upif I should put them in or not..? I have my old RB25 sensors that fit the 30 block so are they ok to use..?

Cheers

Rob, does the Haltech have the facility to use the knock sensors? I'm computer dumb where it comes to tuning. If you can use them, use them for sure. Have you got it up and going yet?

WHITER33GTS-T Veteran

WHITER33GTS-T

Posted
Posted
Rob, does the Haltech have the facility to use the knock sensors? I'm computer dumb where it comes to tuning. If you can use them, use them for sure. Have you got it up and going yet?

Hey Greg,

I have haltech E11v2 and dont think it can run them. Will see the tuner tomorrow and find out.

We fired it up to run the cams in and everything went well.

Hope to get it in to have some bigger cooler pipes made up this week and catch can, then will be off to the rollers for some exercise.

I will let you know how it goes :-)

Mr Jollwah Community Regular

Mr Jollwah

Posted
Posted
The factory ECU will not retard the timing if it sensors detonation. From what I have seen it will switch between high and low octane maps based on knock feedback at low rpm high load. If it changes from high to low and it still continues to detonate there is nothing it will do to stop it. So in a sense they do f**k all.

The factory ecu has a low octane timing map, So the question is how low an octane fuel or how high a cylinder pressure are we talking about. The std ecu does have its limits, Mine used to knock like a salesman everytime I got crap fuel when the local servo ran out of premium.

  • 3 years later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...
luke gtr Grand Master

luke gtr

Posted
Posted

In the case of my RB30 block i simply drilled and tapped the blanked upper positions, the tuner will need them to monitor knock levels on the dyno.

I forgot to whilst it was out of the car.

so, this was easier than attempting it in the car.

especially since they have to be dead straight.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      NC MX5

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Would it not be cheaper to just spray nitrous?
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I've got cash, it's the NA LOLS I'm after now Plus, I've had a few boosted cars, and it is soooo easy to turn a reliable car into a unreliable drivetrain eating money pit monster by just paging up and chasing more My power goal for the NC is to try for a reliable naturally aspirated 150kw or 200hp atw (I'm old, and the old naturally aspirated cherry of 100hp per litre is a goal that I would like to hit), no more is really needed for what I use the car for,  so a additional 5kw is what I'm chasing now,  that 5kw is about $3k away, I think....
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I dunno. I just go off what I know works. On RB20, the idle switch meant something to the ECU and the potentiometer was ignored. In Nistune, with the switch unplugged, you could bridge the terminals in the loom connector and see IDLE come on and off. Not so by moving the pot. The R32 RB20 ECU and the 26 ECU both look like this. Sure there is the "throttle sensor" (pot) on pin 38, and also sure, the idle switch is also directly wired to the TCU, whereas the pot is only directly conected to the ECU. But I am sure that the throttle position from the pot is passed to the TCU across the data bus on pins 21, 22 & 31. Maybe the ECU likes to know throttle position, but it sure as hell doesn't use it to determine the idle condition. Meanwhile, on the later engines, like the 33 25DET and my Neo, you remove the TPS and move the pot to-from the 0.45V position, and IDLE comes and goes in Nistune. No throttle switch on the ECU diagram. Just the pot.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      So, good news and bad news Bad news first: The intake plenum is lost in the mail apparently, I haven't paid for it yet, and MX5 Mania are still chasing it up, farking 'Merica postal service  Good news: Any retune will be free if and when it turns up,  I'm still keen for them to throw it on The car goes noticeably better, with only the typical initial take off thingie from a choppy cam and manual transmission, but giving it just a little more RPM than before gives it a smooth take off (and hour or so of peak hour traffic sorted that little skill out) Car made around 145kwatw & 225Nm (Intake may get me to 150kw, maybe....🤣) Weirdly, 145kwatw is the same max power that my standard 2015 WRX STI made a few years ago The cam really comes alive from around 3.5k and keeps making power and holds it flatish all the way to 7k, whereas before torque would drop hard around at 4.5k Drive home was sadly in peak hour, although I did get a little clean air here and there to wind out 1st and 2nd a little bit, and whilst the gains aren't anything for the "boosted boys" to be impressed at, the thing is a blast to drive The sound in the vid is poor, as it is in a undercover yard at work, but, outside, in the wild, it sounds awesomeballs to my ears with all the choppyness I consider it money very well spent for the outcome  Cam specs for reference (Basically the biggest you can fit with stock pistons) 20250417_171807.mp4   LOL, I don't think I will ever grow up  
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Swap the injectors around and see what happens. If the misfire follows the injectors then that's a signal, if it doesn't it's probably not the injectors.
×
×
  • Create New...