Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys after buying a trust style BOV recently from JJR i decided to fit her up and do my usual thing in posting the how to.

Here's the BOV i got witha universal adaptor (not needed)

01062009229.jpg

Pic of the factory BOV with rubber pipe removed to the return line. It plumbs back to the intake, though i havnt bothered to plug it yet as im not aware of any reason it has to be.

Image006.jpg

Remove the factory BOV and you'll find a 1" hole approx into the manifold pipe note the extra vacuum line coz it could get in the way later. Mine went in fine though so its check twice cut once guys...

Image007.jpg

Overlay the factory BOV on some cardboard then the new one and trace the individual shapes in positions that will suit the layout without fouling the vac line or bolt heads etc. This way you make an adaptor plate that keeps the original stuff close at hand. Then take some 10mm alloy plate and drill, cut file and shave until its smooth and slick.

Here's mine before final filing of centre hole.

Image008.jpg

Image009.jpg

And after thats done fitted to BOV using supplied bolts.

Image010.jpg

Fit her back up with the gasket you took off the factory one and presto!

Image011.jpg

Image012.jpg

Run a new line from the manifold to the BOV (i used smaller Blue silicone line)

Image013.jpg

And enjoy the new toy...

You can see another part of why i aimed it away. Lines up with my vent in the CF hood nicely.

Image014.jpg

Defected no probs un bolt and return to stock instantly.

Thanks :P

  • Like 1
  • 4 years later...

If you want to line the BOV up with the factory recirc pipe (if you want to use it as a recirculating BOV), then you can drill and tap the factory crossover pipe. Obviously pull it off to do it

I did this with my Greddy Type RS rip off BOV before I went front facing plenum, worked a treat. Then if you want to go back to factory BOV, you can make/buy grub screws to screw into the crossover pipe (if you have drilled right through it). With some thread sealant you shouldnt have an issue

Not taking away from the original DIY, just an idea for people who want to go recirc. :)

Seriously, you cheaped out and bought a non genuine Greddy bov, then had to mod the crap out of it to fit. Why the hell didn't you just buy the bolt on Turbosmart Kompact plumb back for $170 and be done? Even grub screwing the bleed hole in the stock BOV would be smarter imo.

Plumb that sucker back or you will stall constantly, potentially causing an accident, not to mention the fouled spark plugs and black rear bar.

Was that aimed at me?

If so:

It was hardly 'mod the f**k out of it' by drilling and tapping 2 holes into the crossover pipe

it was recirculating

I only did it to check the BOV (which I was just borrowing at the time) worked fine.

I have a genuine RZ now, on custom cooler piping

I'm not sure what the bad reaction was for, It was merely another way to do it if you want to retain the recirc. It's not hard to drill and tap 2 holes in the crossover pipe..... I was just offering some advice

Not aimed at you Callan, Pete was duped into buying the crap bov and left it venting, then thought everyone should be doing it. He should have kept the stock one there, infact Nissan should have welded them in place imo.

My point was made today, as I sat behind an evo8 that flooded itself at the lights. As I was waiting for him to start it, I wondered if I would hear the all too familiar ssq noise, and I wasn't disappointed. :/

Modding your car for street cred and ruining it's drivability... I just don't get it.

Not aimed at you Callan, Pete was duped into buying the crap bov and left it venting, then thought everyone should be doing it. He should have kept the stock one there, infact Nissan should have welded them in place imo.

My point was made today, as I sat behind an evo8 that flooded itself at the lights. As I was waiting for him to start it, I wondered if I would hear the all too familiar ssq noise, and I wasn't disappointed. :/

Modding your car for street cred and ruining it's drivability... I just don't get it.

All good, I was a bit confused but now that I re-read your original comment, it seems alot less aimed at me now lol, opps

Didn't even realise this was originally from 2009 lol. Thread revival and I got sucked into it. Thought someone would have done a DIY on this before

Alot of us have all been down the atmo BOV route with stock/MAF computer and once you see first hand how bad the car is with it, you dont keep it around for long :) We were all young and dumb once

Edited by 89CAL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Initial/early bite is a feature of.....generic pads. Things that work cold. Just put Bendix Ultimate in it. If you don't like them, it's only $3.50 wasted and an hour to change them. I've been using Intima SR, and they seem to be a good performance pad. Street friendly and able to take at least a little beating.
    • This is my first post after registering.. I hope i can find useful resources on this forum. Great forum. 
    • As I implied in my post, I have NO idea what the were. But in case I didn't make it clear, the way they performed was brilliant; whatever the brand was. I think it was the compound that made the difference. And if they were Bendix, then sign me up, I want another set. I did drive down mount Ousley (just outside of the Gong) a few times, and they showed no untowards performance.   Its not the low dust that I am looking for NOW. At the time I needed low dust, but now I have no issues with dust but want the initial/early bite of the pads that were used. Yeah, the early cold squeal may of been due to a missing shim or such.  And to repeat, its not the low dust I am seeking, its the initial bite of the pads and increase in bite as  the warmed up during each breaking. As soon as I let off, I don't remember the breaks being extra sticky if I used them again soon after. But I also did not test that theory.   Thanks for the recommendation, But I would prefer to choose something specifically with the behaviour I described.   I assume that they didn't use the default compound off the shelf, as we discussed the dust issue at length. And the early squeal when cold, I have seen the sound is more of an issue with some pad compounds. Mostly ceramic, which also are said to produce less dust.
    • Well, in 2007 he must have been charging about $1800 an hour. He only looked at the car for 5 minutes. And another 4 to write the report wrong, and another minute to correct it. Mind you, this was for a car that was: Stock engine, fmic (hole in drivers guard), all alloy intake and custom air box, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, lowered, and a set of 17" Advans (255/40/17 rear and 235/45/17 front). It was nothing crazy. The blue slipper wanted the "hole in the guard" engineered. But that was because he got the shits that I wouldn't "relocate the battery from the boot, back to the factory position in the engine bay"... In an R33 GTST...     Also for emissions, E85, and don't go wild on timing. It's amazing how the closer you get ignition timing towards max torque, the last couple of degrees really throw NOx counts right up. And for the huge increase in emissions, it's only a small increase in torque.
    • He'll be looking down and swearing about "the damn apprentice" for trying to convince Duncan to use percussive maintenance... 😛  
×
×
  • Create New...