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Not necessarily shift speed because that is most mechanical/hydraulic not electronic. It should allow modification of shift up and down points and therefore stop the auto shifting when not wanted. On the dyno the other day it consistently changed by 6200 at full throttle 4th gear and the power curve was still rising I spent a bit of time with the paddles on a long drive yesterday and found the opposite to you; mine shifts faster up full throttle in auto while the delay for the paddles requires some learning to plan ahead. It also has an annoying habit of changing back to auto from manual mode at partial throttle (it does hold manual shift with no throttle like long downhills thankfully). So, I'd say they are useful for being in the right gear when you leave a corner, but not much else. Sorry for the off topic....for me the big difference between an infiniti and JDM import is you get a much newer car with the JDM option for the same price or cheaper than local cars
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You could do that by all means. but yer it shouldnt be hard to get a VR30 to 400hp with an ECUtek on stock everything.
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That's true. However, this problem has started since the tuning. First time with the return journey from the tuning. But yes, the pipe was clogged with dirt and rust. That was certainly due to age
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By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
Great info @tidi0x Will definitely be handy for others and maybe me if I decide to keep the shit box H pattern. -
Bumping this up one last time.... I wanted to follow up on the clutch slave issue. I realized that what the issue comes down to is the pocket is flat milled, and the cylinder does not want rest flat. So in order to mount it correctly you will need to make a spacer for the fingers so the cylinder is floating. I took two plates of aluminum, drilled some holes and was good. I did still need to make the relief cuts in the bell housing, as even with the spacer the bleed section still interferes. The OE bell housing the mounting holes are raised from the housing.
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