Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got a problem with the battery going flat all the time, have tried as much as i can to track the problem and my work hours dont allow me to get it to an auto elec and pick it up so i need a mobile auto elec to come to my work and suss it out, would prefer someone who knows these cars as it may be a common problem specific to skylines, worst thing would be to get a bill and he still couldnt find the problem.

it'll be (obviously) a power drain somewhere if the battery is in good nick and/or alternator is charging correctly - both of those are very simple things to check, less than 5mins

If you have an alarm, that would be place to start #1 provided everything else above is OK.

Simply diable your alarm for however long this problem takes to occur, if it doesnt, problem solved yourselv

All simple stuff any auto elec can check really if you dont have 5mins to do yourself.

I wouldnt say skyline specific is neccesarily required to track down something like that

done all that, also tested current draw, was .2 of an amp from memory and was no difference with the alarm on or off, also the problem was a minor one when the weather got cold everything went to shit.

might sound silly but have you checked the fluid level in your battery?

only .2A draw would suggest either battery or altenator is gone... checked for good contact on the charge wire?

Thats how much power is being used with the car off and the alarm on, also can not check the fluid level in a sealed battery.

Connected Auto Electrics

105 Shrives Road Hampton Park

0410 407 629‎

speak to bob, he works on quite a few imports and own a r33 himself.

Thanks, will give him a call this week.

might sound silly but have you checked the fluid level in your battery?

only .2A draw would suggest either battery or altenator is gone... checked for good contact on the charge wire?

low battery level will do the same in cold weather (loose charge)

or battery may be just too old and need replacing due to glazing on cells

low battery level will do the same in cold weather (loose charge)

or battery may be just too old and need replacing due to glazing on cells

Battery is about 6 - 12 months old.

Have taking it for long drives to charge it (around 4 hours) i assumed that would be enough to charge it properly, might have to put it on charge over night.

hmm... another question.

What type of battery?

Some batteries need a PROPER charger, not a $80-$100 repco charger, this is to totally reset the battery.

Chucking it on a cheap charger will give it some power, and let you drive it... but it will keep dying.

And again, still could be a stuffed battery, just because its new doesnt mean a thing

yeah you may have bought it 6-12 months ago, but it was probly sitting on the shelf for a year or two before you bought it. from memory, some batterys will print on there somewhere how old the battery itself is...

So how were you starting it? Jump start?

That wont work most of the time for longer than a day or two:)

My Odyssey battery does the same thing.

Once its flat, a jump start will get it running no problems after a few minds.

However the ONLY way to get it back to proper health is a PROPER charger for em. A nice solid 15-25A charger.

Not some shitbox 5A charger like pictured

401.012.jpg

Jump starting it and then on the weekend going for a good 300k drive, problem is that once its fully charged it will still go flat again no matter what, i have not charged the optima but when the odysey was in there i did take it out and charge it with a decent charger and it took a few weeks but it still went flat again, its also odd that during the hot weather we had my current battery didnt have this problem, once the cold weather hit so did the troubles.

Also when i first put the new battery in it was fully charged and worked great, but slowly it lost its charge and has never really gotten back to the same amount of charge.

What voltage do you have at the battery at idle? at 2000rpm?

My nephew's car stopped on him one morning. Checked battery with engine running - 11.5V. So immediately suspected the alternator.

When we got round to replacing the alternator, noticed the belt a bit loose, and then the -ve cable simply fell off the battery terminal. Tightened everything up - 13.5V, problem solved.

So, is everything tight?

At idle the volts on the power fc hand controller show as between 14 - 14.6, at the terminals under the fuse box its .2 of a volt less and at the battery its .4 of a volt less, all of this was measured with a cheap multi meter though.

Just thought i would update, today the power fc hand controller was showing 10.8 volts before trying to start it, had to jump start it again, finally got around to borrowing a mates charger which is 12amps (biggest i could get my hands on), i tested the battery with a multi meter before charging, it showed up as 11.5volts, so 0.7 volt difference from the power fc, also when i hooked up the charger it is showing it as 75% charged.

Will leave it on charge overnight and see how it goes in the morning, with any luck this will solve the problem as some have suggested but i doubt it.

So how were you starting it? Jump start?

That wont work most of the time for longer than a day or two:)

My Odyssey battery does the same thing.

Once its flat, a jump start will get it running no problems after a few minds.

However the ONLY way to get it back to proper health is a PROPER charger for em. A nice solid 15-25A charger.

Not some shitbox 5A charger like pictured

401.012.jpg

So far you are correct, after using the 12amp charger (manafacturer only reccomends 10amp) put it back in on sunday, was at 12.7v when i put it back in, after running around on sunday according to the hand controller it had dropped to 12.3v, on every start since monday morning it is showing 11.8-9, have noticed that how quick it turns over has dropped a bit since sunday, although there is a .5-.7 drop in volts since then, with any luck it will stay where it is and all will be good.

Edited by W0rp3D
11.8 is too low i would think?

Is that once its cranked and idling?

Thats just after i turn the ignition on before i start it, trying to gauge how much volts have been lost over the night/day.

Once started it is still showing 14-14.5v

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
    • Hey lads, reviving an old thread.  As an update, since the last time replied to this thread, ive done mostly suspension. Havent touched the motor except for maintenance. Though upon changing spark plugs, found out i had splitfires pre-installed! Updates: - Got me some stock airbox top cover and snorkel to fit onto the original intake. Should be free of defects - Bought a set of R34 GT-T brakes (not installed yet, going to rebuild + respray in champion blue + white 'Nissan' text) - Bought the last set of bilsteins from @Sydneykid and had them installed. Has been making some sounds on the rear but hopefully should be sorted out after this New Year break. - Regreased front caster rod bushings (poly bushes..) - Rear upper camber arms - Whiteline sway bars (BNF27Z 22mm + BNR11XXZ 24mm).  The rear sway bars are a bit short (ive read 50mm else where) but was still able to get them in.  Anyhows, I reckon suspension is sorted now. Maybe replace bushes (do have a set of front upper control arms from SK not installed yet) but should be okay for now. From now, I'm wanting to start working on the motor, drivetrain etc etc. Still debating on the order to go on and what to buy etc but: - ECU ( Haltech or Link ( Link states that it dont support A/T or AWD functions... Can anyone attest to this? ) - Highflow turbo ( ATR43ss2 ) - Intercooler ( Not decided yet, but cant find many good afoordable ones. Toshi says to opt for crossflow Japanese. Bit difficult this one, unless I get a returnflow Blitz from JJ? ) - Injectors ( Any recommendations ? I do have a nismo FPR ( Thanks SK ) ) - Seats - Tune by either Toshi or DVS To be fair, I did consider just keeping the stock turbo and nistuning it. Sat in a mates stock N, that had something like 200kw, and I reckon that felt more than enough. Maybe I should just go this route ahhaha. Too many choices.... Planning a trip down south, so wanting to just clean things up and make sure it gets to and from in one piece. Anything else specifically I should do before ? Cheers lads  
    • Must be for the car’s lucky charm 🤷🏽‍♂️ She runs fine, but it just seems to take about 1L less. Maybe I’ll have the oil sump dropped at some point to check if there is anything 
×
×
  • Create New...