Jump to content
SAU Community

Problem With Microtech

mad082

By mad082,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

ok i'm posting this up for a mate.

he has just wired a microtech (not sure on number but it is a LT, not LTX) into his ceffy (turbo rb25) and isn't getting spark... sort of. when it does all the self test it comes up fine. now i'll start the story from the start....

when he first bought it it was wired up for wasted spark but when he hooked it up it fried the drivers in the ecu. so he sent it away to microtech and got it fixed and was supposedly bench tested and worked fine. he has now got it back and wired up for normal spark. when he uses th stock s2 coils he gets no spark. when he uses rb20 coils with an ignitor he gets no spark, but when he uses rb20 coils and no ignitor he gets spark (he only has 1 rb20 coil though). he has gone over the wiring with a multimeter and test light and everything is getting enough voltage to fire but it won't. anyone got any ideas on why it won't run with the s2 coils. he was under the impression that the LTX had a built in ignitor but the LT didn't.

pretty much been over everything we could think of so throw out any ideas you have

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274689-problem-with-microtech/
Share on other sites
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok just double checked the model number. it's a LT12S. he also rang up a tuning company this morning to double check the compatiability of using the stock coils and they agreed it should work fine.

he has wired up and tuned a few microtechs in the past so it isn't a lack of knowledge issue.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
ok just double checked the model number. it's a LT12S. he also rang up a tuning company this morning to double check the compatiability of using the stock coils and they agreed it should work fine.

he has wired up and tuned a few microtechs in the past so it isn't a lack of knowledge issue.

RB20 (S1 33 coils) and S2 33 coils are wired differently.

Can you please post up a MSPAINT wiring diagram of how they are wired ie. which wires (colours or output numbers from ECU) are going to which wires on the coilpack

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah he has emailed microtechefi.com (and not microtech-efi.com which is actually mazfix which i think was who fixed the board last time) and has sent the ecu away to them. they suspect the ecu may have had a LTX board put in it and not had the sticker changed when it was fixed last time because of the fact that it will spark without an ignitor but not with an ignitor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      NC MX5

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      LOL.... fk...   there goes 25K to make 200kW
    • dbm7
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By dbm7 · Posted

      For sure the later RB26 variants had a different setup (6 cam voltage sender?), but the RB25DE/DET share the same ECU pinout/PCB footprint, and at the ECU plug it ends up being 'throttle sensor in' & 'throttle sensor out' (to A/T TCU) ...you stick a multimeter on these pins and you'll find them directly connected (0 ohms) ; I had an pair of Nissan ECUs on the bench long ago, and I noticed this throttle sensor in/out link, actually linked to an op-amp ...which was unpopulated on the NA board, but present on the T board and I went 'ah-ha!' in some moment of clarity... ...it wouldn't surprise me if they changed strategy here though (in the software and actual monitoring of this signal), because they did with other stuff (A/T signals).. and 0.45v as a trigger point makes sense, as that's what the external TCU units expect at idle ; kudos, thanks for that insight...I suppose it boils down to whether or not Consult can display real time data of that signal's voltage... ...in any event, it presents the same target...ie; rotate TPS unit to achieve 0.45v to suit both ECU&TCU, and where do you goto from there? Just disconnect TPSwitch connector and/or that plus TPSensor connector....or do you go for the throat and disconnect IACV solenoid and see if it still stalls? (probably throws a recoverable fault code and goes for default idle strategy?)...
    • PotatoCake
      Exhaust silencers/varex exhausts

      By PotatoCake · Posted

      I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
×
×
  • Create New...