Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just found that you can't have more than 20mil credits...scumbags ripped me off about 100k that last race.

Old news dude - get with the program

I found out about 10am yesterday :whistling:

But yeah - just go on a spending spree!!

Does anyone know if you get the same exp for enduros on A-Spec as you do for B-Spec? I'm doing the level 35 24 hr enduro B-Spec race and you have to do it about 7 times to reach level 40 :down: As if anyones going to do it that many times in A-Spec...?

Just checked up on my B spec drivers and here is my highest earner over the last few days, no one should ever be broke again with the remote feature.

Agreed.

I ran about 14-15 races yesterday with a full 16 driver grid (although 6 or them were mine).

$875k while at work is pretty handy.

im 5.5 hours into the le mans 24 hour b spec race and wow i love the time, night&dark etc this is awesome. but yea polyphony really do need to sort out the issues with the headlights. if u go to bumper cam/cockpit cam you cant see more than about 10 meters ahead, and im sorry but that just doesnt cut it when your doing 400kph+ you need realistic lighting. but thats about the only major gripe i have with this game. im sure its nothing they cant fix with a software update and they've ironed out most the other kinks in the game so far so hopefully this one isnt far off

Hehe I'm about 8.5 hours in - great minds think alike, hey?

Is yours a rainy race? Mine started with rain and hasn't changed. The Minolta can't use its huge power advantage in the wet, so unless I'm telling the driver to speed up, he drops pace and lets the others catch up. Hope I can build enough of a lead by tonight so that they can continue through the night without dropping a place.

Yes - there's no way I could drive these cars at night - the headlights are awful - even worse with the rain. Seriously needs to be addressed if I'm even going to bother with any night races / stages (including rally)

Edit: almost 10hrs in and all drivers pitted for intermediates. Guess that answers my question about variable weather.

Edited by warps

yeah the variable weather is awesome.. mine started out a fine sunny day then during the night it rained for a while but dried up by morning now i've just woken up and im less than an hour away from finishing but i've got oil light.. anyone else had oil issues late in 24 hour races?

Mine lasted a dozen laps on the intermediates then went back in for wets and stayed that way. I started another 24h race this morning - had 5 or 6 goes at starting a completely new race and all started with rain. Eventually decided to stick with it and they were all on intermediates. After 8 laps, all the cars came in for race tyres, even though it was still raining. Now all the cars are spinning off on every corner, so I brought my driver in for intermediates. He went back out and blitzed the field (taking over a minute off everyone each lap becasue he actually stays on the track) but the game keeps wanting to bring him back in for slicks on every lap. Farking stupid game!!!

Yes, my Toyota needed an oil change after the race (did an oil change and engine rebuild before the race started)

im curious wat the hell is the point in the car wash feature. during the race, it got dirty everywhere she was a mess, yet when i get out and look at it in the garage its clean as a whistle? so why would anyone use the car wash when it makes no difference whatsoever

I think that's meant to be damage along the right hand side of the car (I bounced off that many walls, the right hand side of the car was completely black). I notice that body damage seems to be represented with shadows, but the body shape doesn't actually change. Wings, nosecones etc deform as you damage your car, but the main body doesn't seem to.

My current 24h race has all of the cars bent and twisted at the front and back, thanks to them all running on slicks in the rain. Now it's pissing down again and they're all on full wets. Have yet to see any dry track at the Lemans 24h (although I'm only checking progress every couple of hrs through the day).

good point on the damage being black.

and i love how far the rear wings can deform and yet the car drives fine...lol

on that point im glad the damage isnt just gray and white scratches like many car games damage, shift for example. as much as the model of the crashing is better...those lines just look stupid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...