Jump to content
SAU Community

Gt5 Is Ready


bigslick
 Share

Recommended Posts

I just managed to get bronze on the first 2 Sebastian vettel challenges (using a controller with all assists off except for traction). Now for suzuka which i think will take a while. Monza was the easiest. Took about 20 mins of trying

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok suzuka bites the big penis. After about 20 attempts the furthest i have gotten is about 30 seconds into the first lap, which is still a few corners before the hairpin, so i'm giving up. Not even going to bother trying it again. It would be ok if you could at least finish the race when you get dq'd so you can learn the car and the track, but instead you have to learn 1 corner per attempt, if you are lucky to make it to a new corner. Over half of my dq's were on the first corner

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I made a pretty nice track the other day, its just a shame you cant fine tune it as theres one or two parts that annoy me. The rest of it is pretty nice with big sweeping corners and chicanes.

Its a start I guess, better then nothing

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have gold on the first 2 Vettel Challenges and a silver on suzuka which took me many hours over the course of a couple of days. The nurburgring took about 3 or 4 hours, Monza was fairly easy just need to use the green astroturf bits on the chicanes and at Ascari, also there is a little wall on the inside of the first lesmo corner so i found i needed to turn into the corner a lot later than what felt right but because the car has so much grip it just stays on the track. I'm also using a driving force GT which probably helps with achieving the target times over a DS3.

The game is good I only really have a problem with the headlights in the dark and the rewards available for races. Money is harder to come by in this game than any other and the cars are much more expensive now, the inability to re-win prize cars and sell them also doesnt help and whats with having a 20m credit limit.

My PSN is lmanion, add me for remote B-spec ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

dam. nice work dude. once i get my arm out of the wrist brace i will be trying them again. the car is just soooo grippy its very deceiving.

on another note. i will hit lvl 35 today!!!! so i can have my very own to practice with.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also used my wheel to change the brake bias to something like 7 or 8 front and 10 rear, with the amount of grip this thing has this helps bring the back round so you floor it and it just drives through the corner in a way that seems impossible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yup, did some flying laps in it this arvo...pretty well 1 handed. not easy. but a few suspension tweaks and it becomes a bit more driveable...or should i say soft and predictable??? not sure. crazy car. lotsa fun.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

how retarded is this. 21hrs into the 24hr le mans and this time im watching as it starts raining. car doesnt seem to be losing grip on the slicks so i leave it. couple laps later and its noticeably slower around corners and the lap times reflect this so i change to intermediates which gives more grip and brings the lap times back down.

now the pit indicator comes on after every lap to go back to slicks.. why??? how stupid is the ai to think that slicks are a better idea when the intermediates are giving more grip??

and whats more.. every other car on the field is pitting every 1-2 laps to replace their medium slicks, with another set of medium slicks?? ugh. words can not express the level of fail here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i feel ya. in the Formula GT series, my B spec driver would pit on the last lap of every race......even if i told him to pit early to get it over and done with.....almost lost me the dam race/series.

all good tho, lvl 35 Bspec=i no longer care about it!!!

Edited by boiracer
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did a wet race (think it was monza in the polyphony cup) and i started on wets and i found that after a few laps a dry line started to appear, although i only discover it was happening from playing around with the view and driving off line on purpose and seeing the change in the ammount of spray off the tyres.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

all good tho, lvl 35 Bspec=i no longer care about it!!!

i assume this is cos u finally got the X2010? the only thing i have against this car is its 500,000 credits to rebuild and u dont even get that much from winning a 24 hour. i reckon a 24 hour should win at least 1m credits. the current prizes dont make it worth it, i'm just doing it for the xp. using the mazda 787B stealth model cos all the stealth model and chrome line cars only cost 500 credits to overhaul so its far more economical. would suck if i hadn't bought collector's edition.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol, thats it. the X2010 does the entire dream car series in about an hour. 84+ grand a race and 433g for winning. not bad money...alot better than the useless enduros. i think this will be my cash cow.

other than the remote B speccing, thanks guys :) picked up more than a mill tonight. and been setting up races all night.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Q: I'm assuming (risky move I know) that any cars you race against will eventually turn up in your UCD?. Or are there some cars that you can only buy used if you have the more expensive versions of GT5?

I ask because I've been purposefully refreshing the entire UCD stock list for weeks now any I'm still yet to see the F1 GTR long tail come through the lot (plus a heap of other interesting stuff). It's just the same bunch of shit-boxes over and over and over. Am I missing something here?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

na the UCD is exactly the same no matter what version you bought. the only difference is the stealth models, and chrome line models that come as dlc only with collectors and signature. they are the only cars in the game not available to standard gt5. the stealth models are just same as the usual version in the game, just painted black with polyphony/gt5 logos on them. no big loss. chrome line are again same as normal cars but with lame paint jobs. the only good thing about them is they only cost 500 creds to overhaul.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness update time have had great fun and learnt so much already so far with this project. I started off making both the ignition and injector sub harnesses in the hope any mistakes i made here aren't as hard to undo and learn from as the main harness.  A cool comparison of the old harness using presumably TXL wire and the new which is using Tezel. Also opted to use DTM plugs to keep the whole setup as neat and tidy as possible and tucked the wiring under the coil bracket to try and keep it all from sticking out too much. Although the injector harness, I'm not overly happy with as I'm still using the rubber boots that are supplied with the type of plugs it just looks ugly and sticks out like a sore thumb with the white identifiers so a slight redesign may be done.   Then it was main harness time and most importantly trying to route it nice and away from the heat it will use the OEM heater hose routing which is no longer present to keep the harness up high and secure. it's amazing how much smaller this harness is able to be compared to the old one. plugged everything into the emtron and with the help of the tuner again attempted to start it up and instantly fired up and running smoothly on all 6 which was a big shock to myself. So still some routing and adjusting to be done for the final fit up and installing a knock sensor harness plug which is in the post all has gone surprisingly well.     The old harness for shits and giggles.
    • They do that at random every now and then, with almost no detectable cause. Mine has done it a couple of times (over 25 years!!). Never worked out why.
    • I don't post on here and have been lurking for some time now. Many of the topics have helped me out more times than i can count. I was racing yesterday (11/9) and blew a front right CV shaft. I have spares so I popped a new one in. A thread i read previously said to check the engine mounts if you blow a front CV. Upon inspection, the front right mount was completely separated from the upper plate. This discovery saved me time and money, because i would have blown another CV if i went back out. Just wanted to thank you guys and wish everyone luck with with their builds. (Now if we could only come up with a solution for my power steering belt flying off after hitting the rev limiter, lol)
    • Either way he still need those style of spacer to go into the manifold because the photo he currently has is not going to work 
    • You can just get the injector bosses, which allows top feeds to fit. He can use the same injectors without issue, like these (another option): https://rocketindustries.com.au/af59-2210-rb25-fuel-injector-inserts     The Racework ones look a bit better: https://www.nzefi.com/product/raceworks-lower-injector-mounting-boss-kit-for-r33-rb25det-s14-s15-sr20det/   You could also just get a similar kit like the Radium one by Plazmaman: https://plazmaman.com/product/nissan-rb25det-r33-billet-fuel-rail/?srsltid=AfmBOoogfYq49X0fu2Wdbf8yOf6zt9egyPAif_gn3Qr3G8hzAphhTgOkO70  
×
×
  • Create New...