Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No one will ever forget that thread man. Shit was epic. Just live with it.

the fact that the question was even asked it mega LULZ. the fact that it was even contemplated was nearly as funny. there's nothing like a set of big wheels to make it look like your brakes are off a pushbike, LOL.

Ive been playing for a bit now and have just reached level 17. Been reading all the reviews and would have to agree the games awesome fun but has some flaws. The main one for me would probably be the fact that you can upgrade your car to a point way beyond what your competitors cars are. And also that most of the time you can enter an overpowered car in races. As for possible soloutions, i would have liked to have seen a power/upgrade restriction which rises with your level. So at first you can modify your engine with exhuast, intake and basic engine tuning. Then later as you progress through the levels you are able to turbo/supercharge/ increase engine capacity. Cool thing about that would be that you might be able to make your old cars faster, like say the first cars you buy such as 180sx/skyline's, would eventually be uograded to power levels the same as the super cars in the game. And not be restricted to low power levels.

Anyway gonna get back to playing.

I just ripped out Rfactor the other day for a little bit of fun, and it shows what a difference there is between sims and games. Not saying Rfactor is perfect, but some of the things talkes about here are in a 4 year old PC game.

The physics are a lot more realistic than GT4 (haven't driven GT5 yet, so I'll reserve judgement and not comment)

Crashing does NOT sound like hitting a wheelie bin lol. You can almost feel the pain when you hit a solid object

If you mod your car too much it puts you up into the next class

Start modding the car and it can quickly become an undriveable POS if you stuff up too many settings. I was setting faster times with a stock car with sports tyres than with a whole heap of mods.

Tyre and damage models can be adjusted to be time dependant and rates accelerated

Interior view looks pretty good, and you can turn off all the HUD stuff so you only have a speedo and tach to give you vital stats.

The AI isn't too bad, and if you bump them they are just as likely to crash as you are (hehe not that I'd ever do that). They actually try to avoid running into you, and you can adjust their aggression

Not suggesting it's perfect, or better than GT5 (again I haven't played it, so not in a position to comment). What I really like about it is how everything is adjustable, so you can dial in as much or little realism as you like.

Apart from night driving- that blows. Have these people never heard of spotties? I used to love the night stages in rallying, but I've yet to see a computer game that simulates night rallying or racing very well.

Ive been playing for a bit now and have just reached level 17. Been reading all the reviews and would have to agree the games awesome fun but has some flaws. The main one for me would probably be the fact that you can upgrade your car to a point way beyond what your competitors cars are. And also that most of the time you can enter an overpowered car in races. As for possible soloutions, i would have liked to have seen a power/upgrade restriction which rises with your level. So at first you can modify your engine with exhuast, intake and basic engine tuning. Then later as you progress through the levels you are able to turbo/supercharge/ increase engine capacity. Cool thing about that would be that you might be able to make your old cars faster, like say the first cars you buy such as 180sx/skyline's, would eventually be uograded to power levels the same as the super cars in the game. And not be restricted to low power levels.

Anyway gonna get back to playing.

All the GT games have allowed you to max out the power well above the power levels of your opponents cars. in gt4 though your A spec score was lower if your car was much more powerfull than your opponents.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hmm. Yes. I should have been clearer. 1000s for Haltech, for extra headroom. 725s for Nistune. You might even be OK with 640s, but if the possible power ends up much more than 300 rwkW you will run out of headroom on the 640s. That would probably be OK and a signal to not push it to that sort of power with Nistune anyway. At that level you probably do want to be thinking about engine protection functions. Oh, and all of that presumes 98 only, not E85. Well....the 1000s would allow you to run E85 at ~300rwkW territory, again, maybe sort of running out of headroom. Hard to tell with E85 - depends on the tuner as to how rich they like to set it up.
    • Yes.  The only scenario I can imagine when the answer isn't yes, is if you drive like there is highway patrol behind you at all times.  If your car currently runs, enjoy it and keep saving. Better costs more, keep saving until you can budget the better ECU. It's worth it.  Nope. Plenty of us making >300kw on unopened motors. Mine is unopened and makes about 350kw if I turn everything up, its fine (lots of caveats here, how the car will be used/abused, how long you expect the engine to last between rebuilds, how has the engine been maintained prior to coming into your ownership, etc etc).   
    • Sorry just wanting to clarify, at this power goal, which should I be going? Also, More info regarding suspension, the rear upper camber arms were used to get the camber back to i believe around -0.5 ~ -1 degree (@ Road and Race in Rydalmere), I forgot the exact figure, but ALOT less camber than what it came originally which was like -2.5degrees. Are the traction arms still recommended? The bilsteins from SydneyKid, they've got 400lb/in fronts & 275/in in the rear, revalved to his specs. Intercooler, I'm just having a look at some on Rakuten.jp and some other japanese sites. Might get something from back there, GReddy, Blitz or HPI, all crossflow. Looking at roughly $450-$500 AUD + shipping... Theres not many choices except that chinese branded Justjap unless you go for blitz return flow. Yeah, only downside with Haltech is the price ahhaha, so expensive, and with all the sensors if I go that route... $$$$$ yeesh. Are headstuds/gaskets needed for <300akw?
    • Haltech fanboi reporting in. Buy the Haltech! 
    • You can try shoving a borescope down there to see what's up.
×
×
  • Create New...