Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just bought R33 GTS-T Coupe

Had roadworthiness done but since buying car engine occasionally stalls in situations where there is a lot of change in speed such as in traffic jams (which is an awesome experience).

Mechanic reckons the fuel pressure regulator is stuffed but that replacing it will cost around $300 because the new part can only be sourced from Japan.

Looking for anyone with a new or second hand fuel pressure regulator in decent condition as my hip pocket can't handle importing.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275001-engine-stall-in-traffic-jams/
Share on other sites

Mate, I doubt it's your FPR.

Check simple things first:

1) Clean AFM with carby cleaner.

2) Check that the AFM connectors in the little black box are welded correctly

Yeah try the afm. But my money's on your IAC valve, its either dirty or the unit itself might b screwed.

I had this same problem wen i bought my car. doubt its your fpr.

hope this helps

Thanks for the feedback Turbz RB-25, Benzino33, RICCA, axe s, A31Drifter and TWINS33.

Im heaps green with skylines so its good to get some info from ppl with more experience. The mechanic that looked at my car reckoned it was the fpr because they usually hold pressure with the ignition off and mine doesn't.

So I'll try cleaning the AFM, check the connectors, check the IAC valve and the BOV. All this stuff is simple to do if I follow the Skyline manual right?

If I find its none of these then I might hit you up for that fpr axe s.

Cheers again for the help,

-FIXER5.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Way more than 1cm. Appreciate the advice maybe I try changing the bushing first
    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
×
×
  • Create New...