Whats The Best Rwd Setup For Traction

[Stealthynsa]

wanting to know whats the best suspension and wheel size for a gtst rwd to get the best traction it could from a launch.

i want the rears to look fat aswell possibly with some deep dish at the rear... but main concern the traction

ide love to buy a gtr but not going to bother,

i want a 5 spoke black wheels to suit a maroon car and i need to know what tyres i should get. i want the widest i could fit but best for traction

what suspension setup should i go for?

and do i need to change things like the camper arms, control arms and all the rest of the little fiddly bits and if so could u name the parts i should be changing

it will mainly be for a straight line so i want a fast launch as ill be competing with my mates wrx

but i would also like to take it to a track day every now and then

Edited June 16, 2009 by Stealthynsa

[Stealthynsa]

can no1 help me out at all with this?

[PM-R33]

Good tyres, 255/35 is a good start or some semi slicks.

Subframe bushes set for maximum squat.

Get the rear camber as close to 0 degrees as you can.

Rear suspension to be nice and soft.

See how you go with that and go from there. I have a similar setup but 1st gear is still a joke. Going to try and get the rear camber as close to 0 as i can. It's about -1 at the moment.

[Stealthynsa]

See how you go with that and go from there. I have a similar setup but 1st gear is still a joke.

lol thats exactly what i dont want first gear to be a joke

thanks for the tip thought... whats the widest size wheel/tyre i can go on the rears?

i recently found out about tyre stretching and i think it looks awesome so i would like to do that a little bit aswell

[PM-R33]

What kind of power are you pushing? Mine comes on very hard in the midrange so unless i run semi's or put stock shocks and raise the car a bit in the back, i don't think i'll ever get 1st gear to hold under full throttle on the street.

[Sydneykid]

What kind of power are you pushing? Mine comes on very hard in the midrange so unless i run semi's or put stock shocks and raise the car a bit in the back, i don't think i'll ever get 1st gear to hold under full throttle on the street.

You have 2 obvious problems;

18" Volk Racing GTC's

Tein Super Street Coilovers

Too low a profile tyre to absord the torque hit plus very unsophisticated shock absorber valving and too high a spring rate.

Cheers

Gary

[PM-R33]

Yeah i know, it's not the best setup for getting power down, but hell, gotta compromise some where

Aslong as i can keep power down throughout second gear (which some times gets hard), ill be happy. Gonna probably get a second set of whiteline camber adjusters for the rear, or just put a set up adjustable arms in to try to get it to zero degrees in the back. Cheers though Gary, havn't seen you on the forums for a while

Edited June 17, 2009 by PM-R33

[allthewaytotheskyline]

You have 2 obvious problems;

18" Volk Racing GTC's

Tein Super Street Coilovers

Too low a profile tyre to absord the torque hit plus very unsophisticated shock absorber valving and too high a spring rate.

Cheers

Gary

so would you say 255-40-17's would be to much low profile?

[Sydneykid]

so would you say 255-40-17's would be to much low profile?

Depends on the spring rates. It's pretty simple maths actually;

tyre + effective spring rate = total rate (where the tread meets the road)

low profile tyre = high rate

high rate + high rate = no traction

Cheers

Gary

[nisskid]

buy some R32 GTR wheels, chuck some 255/45's on, roll guards, R32 B6 bilsteins (nice and soft), stock springs (soft), pineapples in, aligned for maximum squat.

that would be my guess for a fairly cheap setup for straight line stuff.

[SLAPS]

I'm with Gary.

Mines up over 300rwkw with an RB30DET, comes on relatively smooth but has bulk torque form 3500rpm onwards.

Stock suspension was a joke the rear end would sit down unevenly, strangely the left would dip and create a taily rear. Possibly a stuffed shock.

I fitted a set of harder teins, instantly I noticed the rear would squat evenly. It hooked up better and twin wheel in a near straight line.

I then dropped the front of the cradle ~12mm and fitted a mechanical diff with wheel alignment - 0.5neg rear camber.

The cradle rake really made the biggest difference as you could feel it absorb a little of the drive line shock + when it was spinning it went from spinning on the spot to what felt like spinning but strangely accelerating damn hard. 18's were too slippery even with wide tyres. Best grip I've found is with a good set of 16's. I've found with 17's you need to jump up ~2 sizes to obtain the same grip for if your running the same overall dia. compared to the 16's.

No doubt a set of purpose built springs and shocks will improve grip 10 fold. For a good handling + straight line grip I believe I've found a nice balance.

The issue with launching a manual RWD skyline quick and clean is it requires you to slip the clutch some what.

With making over 500hp you typically need a clutch that doesn't like being slipped so its either have a nice clean launch or kill your clutch.

If your experiencing traction problems with near 400hp (200-230rwkw) you need to ditch the low profiles, look at the condition of your diff and finally look at your driving/launching style.

Edited June 17, 2009 by SLAPS