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Yeah the pickup sits very close to the bottom of the sump... I've already got an oil cooler for more capacity, then I'll try an Accusump. If that fails too then I'll redesign a better sump with proper baffles.

i noticed this when mark at MRC pulled my sump off, I was surprised at how close the pickup is in a standard sump let alone a modified one. Mark has got a new pickup for his that has raised studs in the corners, so if the pickup ends up hard against the sump it will still have enough room.

just looked at the Accusump website, that's pretty in-genius using a common hydraulic system accessory in car oil systems. guessing it works like an accumulator pre-charged or sprung to a certain pressure so if the system pressure drops below the accumulator pressure it starts feeding the engine intravenously. how do you stop the sump from over-filling on shutdown when the Accusump feeds the engine or is not enough oil to worry about it?

The raised studs is a good idea. Yep you've got it, Accusump accumulates oil and discharges when pressure is low. It's controlled by an electronic valve. Chrispy is using it in his VHZ32 to counter the oil surge problem sucessfully.

The raised studs is a good idea. Yep you've got it, Accusump accumulates oil and discharges when pressure is low. It's controlled by an electronic valve. Chrispy is using it in his VHZ32 to counter the oil surge problem sucessfully.

oh, so it traps oil in the accumulator by the electronic valve when you shut off the engine it closes and opens it when you start the car. no noisy lifters on start up! that's a pretty awesome idea, it's almost all the benefits of a dry sump but with out the problem and cost of fitting it. i might have to think about putting one in myself. won't have to worry about track so much any more.

awesome1!

whens it getting tuned

it won't for the time being it's going to left stock for a month or two until we work any bugs that arise, then I'll start getting it tuned. hopefully it's ready this coming week, fingers crossed.

it won't for the time being it's going to left stock for a month or two until we work any bugs that arise, then I'll start getting it tuned. hopefully it's ready this coming week, fingers crossed.

sweet. a few of these done in nz bcos ls1s arernt cheap. lol

engineer had his inspection, pretty good. wants me to replace the radius rods and rear upper A arms because their rose jointed, a padded steering wheel, get rid of the tomei t-trax locker diff and a few other little things.

what does everyone think i should do about the diff?

engineer had his inspection, pretty good. wants me to replace the radius rods and rear upper A arms because their rose jointed, a padded steering wheel, get rid of the tomei t-trax locker diff and a few other little things.

what does everyone think i should do about the diff?

Hi I'm also building a S13 VH45. Nice to see your almost done.

In regards to the diff. Sell it now. I'm not sure if you have aspirations of drifting but i think the 2 way is overkill. The 4.36 ratio is a terrible match for the engine.

If you want a budget baller setup.

Sell the following:

Diff

Driveshafts

rear 5 stud. (will still be 5 studs after but larger spline count. q45 or 300zx rear hubs)

You should be able to get at least $700.

Then put in a r200 from a Nissan q45 and drive shafts.

WHY???

Well the q45 diff ratio is matched for Vh45

The q45 diff is the strongest r200 diff that nissan make. They have ultra beefy drive shafts. Extremely thick with a much larger spine count. Unbreakable and will take 1000hp easy

Sure they are a viscous lsd. BUT because they were fitted to luxury cars they are in perfect condition and you can always change the center later.

This is a popular swap in the US because of the fantastic condition of the units and the fact that they are indestructible.

If you want this setup I have a spare from my build. Will let it go for $399

Includes diff and shafts.

If you want some info PM me

Edited by James 013

Hi I'm also building a S13 VH45. Nice to see your almost done.

In regards to the diff. Sell it now. I'm not sure if you have aspirations of drifting but i think the 2 way is overkill. The 4.36 ratio is a terrible match for the engine.

If you want a budget baller setup.

Sell the following:

Diff

Driveshafts

rear 5 stud. (will still be 5 studs after but larger spline count. q45 or 300zx rear hubs)

You should be able to get at least $700.

Then put in a r200 from a Nissan q45 and drive shafts.

WHY???

Well the q45 diff ratio is matched for Vh45

The q45 diff is the strongest r200 diff that nissan make. They have ultra beefy drive shafts. Extremely thick with a much larger spine count. Unbreakable and will take 1000hp easy

Sure they are a viscous lsd. BUT because they were fitted to luxury cars they are in perfect condition and you can always change the center later.

This is a popular swap in the US because of the fantastic condition of the units and the fact that they are indestructible.

If you want this setup I have a spare from my build. Will let it go for $399

Includes diff and shafts.

If you want some info PM me

I love the 2-way, had it for years. my dilemma is trying to replace it with something close to it but legal. technically according to the ADR's and VSI's it is legal it's a clutch packed LSD and does allow for free independent wheel spinning but only under neutral throttle conditions or if you've got your foot on the clutch. But an engineer assesses a car as a package and with that diff has deemed it dangerous because it shudders the axle and rear wheels under low speeds and doesn't allow for smooth driving in low speed conditions because of the high initial torque in tomei T-trax LSDs it doesn't smoothly engage the diff .

Anyway until i work something out I replaced it with a stock one out of an s14, a viscous 4.11. I've been told the engineer is looking at the car again next week (for hopefully the last time).

update time...

the 180 has passed engineering, just waiting for the certificate so we can get the blue slip then REGO TIME!!! looks like next week is the go.

i'm still thinking about what wheels to put on it. so far i'm thinking watanabes 17*8 at front and 17*9 in rear, going to do some experiments with some 18 inch gtr wheels to get the offset right. i've had watanabes on the car before at a crazy +6 offset and they fitted well, so hopefully i can get some dish!

180sx is now blue slipped, engineered and green slipped, just gotta register it tomorrow. got to drive it back from castle hill though. lots response, doesn't seem to have as much top end as expected though. That has me worried, hope the VVT's working properly.

180sx is now blue slipped, engineered and green slipped, just gotta register it tomorrow. got to drive it back from castle hill though. lots response, doesn't seem to have as much top end as expected though. That has me worried, hope the VVT's working properly.

Congrats mate!! :laugh:

IT'S REGISTERED..............AND RUNNING IN THE KNOCK MAP :(,

NISS TUNE IT IS!!!!!!!!!! going to get the knock map changed to the same map as the primary. and the best thing is the sound, sounds like a tuned old school v8.

drives at full power when still in the warm up map, loses most of its power when warm. my guess is the knock sensors. it's about as fast as the ca18det, but power hits at 2000rpm and keeps coming relentlessly, we're the ca18det did nothing below 4000rpm and had bugger all torque.

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