Jump to content
SAU Community

180sx Vh45

farch

By farch,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

farch Collaborator

farch

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i rang camtech in Sydney they told they are willing to to a regrind for me, i just have to send a set of cams down to them so they can see what sort profile they can do. now i just have find a second engine.

  • 4 months later...
  • Replies 302
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Chrispy
Chrispy

Good stuff! I'm digging those UAS engine mounts, I might change mine to those too... And a Pulsar brake booster might fit. You're running close with the clutch master too Have fun making the ext

Aggroman
Aggroman

I like how u say we, when its really just sean

XRATED
XRATED

wonder how steady that person will be after consuming all the beer/rum/jack supplied 'in kind' while fitting :-)

Posted Images

  • 3 weeks later...
farch Collaborator

farch

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Lol. I sold them to him from my car. He was a bit iffy at first but in a short time he loved the look :)

yeah, it seems everything gtr was made for a 180sx upgrade.

since the brake and driveline upgrade, i've bought a second engine that had water in one of the bores to make the cams with. i since spoken to kelford cams in nz who where more helpful than camtech. kelford said they would test the cams for defects and then make a decision of how much they can grind them and to what duration. where camtech said they don't do that and i must tell them how to grind.

i'm also going to use the second engine to test engine internals from other cars to see sr20 rods fit and that the arp rod bolts and head studs fit and if sr20 cam cap bolts.

XRATED Veteran

XRATED

Posted
Posted

If your going na power, some guys in the states are looking at going with Honda rods and motorcycle short skirt pistons.... Shedding kilos of rotating mass. Might be worth looking at?

... On a serious note though, Jim wolf have done a lot of testing with vh cams.

Are we likely to see some short velocity stacks under that cowl? Maybe a little gas?

J.

  • 2 weeks later...
farch Collaborator

farch

Posted
  • Author
Posted

got the old r32 brake master cylinder replaced today, swapped with a brembo spec r33 gtr master.

top one is the old r32 spec 15/16 bore and the bottom is the installed brembo r33 bm57 1-1/16 bore.

pretty much instant braking response now, just have to worry about the daydreaming idiots behind me now. (well...more so)

post-38774-0-01814800-1393660194_thumb.jpg

post-38774-0-26249600-1393660227_thumb.jpg

Victory Mentor

Victory

Posted
Posted

One of the SAU Traders Halfod Motors has new BM57 (e.g. 17/16 bore) master cylinders in 2 and 3 port models for $149 and $139 delivered free.

This is much cheaper than buying a second hand one and then trying to get a kit to recondition it

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Thanks Charles,

I pretty much came to that conclusion after my own searching tonight! The BM50 would probably be better, but runs a hefty price as a non abs.

Being a rps13, mine has a bm44, so it's better than the early models bm33, but I don't think they are up to the brembo fronts and twin piston rears.

So I think I might give the 57 a go- cheap and easy to get in Non abs.

GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
Posted

Actually splits the port via a tee to both front wheels, rear is single line to the back and splits at the back :D

So bias is set as per factory for front to rear.

He just needs to source a new connector plug to suit the BM57 reservoir (as they are different manufacturers) so that the low level warning light works.

  • 3 weeks later...
farch Collaborator

farch

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yesterday and today we started doing some over due maintenance on the vh45, new injectors and replacing the leaking rocker cover gaskets. the old injectors were so old they gone white, this should make it run smooth as silk.

post-38774-0-23818000-1395539976_thumb.jpg

new injectors, nissan wanted upwards of $400 each for them i managed to buy them on ebay for $400 total from america

post-38774-0-63217000-1395540039_thumb.jpg

farch Collaborator

farch

Posted
  • Author
Posted

one of the new injectors was dead, not happy but at least it was number one cylinder and can be removed with out taking off anything else. We put one of the old injectors in instead, luckily it seems we managed to find one that's not miss firing. ordered two more to be safe.

Aggroman Grand Master

Aggroman

Posted
Posted

one of the new injectors was dead, not happy but at least it was number one cylinder and can be removed with out taking off anything else. We put one of the old injectors in instead, luckily it seems we managed to find one that's not miss firing. ordered two more to be safe.

I like how u say we, when its really just sean :P

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Just a follow-up on this topic. From what I can tell so far the rusty residue on the engine block might be unrelated to a coolant leak or maybe just older than anticipated. After driving it from the winter garage to my friend's garage I could not see any new traces of coolant leaking there, but I will test this properly once I was able to fully warm up the car and drive it for a bit. I think I can agree that the whole porous engine block stuff is kind of nonsense, but there is just a silly amount of true, false and half-true information on anything Skyline-related on the internet.
    • Butters
      UniClutch

      By Butters · Posted

      hrmmm , not mine , easter plans to pull engine not happening     
    • DRoc81
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By DRoc81 · Posted

      I removed the IACV, cleaned it and reinstalled.  I found a video on youtube that helped with the whole process, the guy then said the idle needed to be set, so the process was to get the vehicle up to operating temperature, unplug the TPS, set the idle screw in the IACV so the RPMs were around 600, then plug the TPS back in.  After I reinstalled the IACV, the car started (because, it was a cold start), once it warmed up, the car died, I adjusted the idle screw to see if that helped anything, it did not, I had to wait about 3-5 minutes, then the car would start back up. Only to shortly cut out, and only crank.  I loosened the TPS to see if adjusting that would do anything, and when I would rotate the sensor clockwise, there was a humming noise, but it would go away when I got the sensor in the horizontal position.  It only made the hum noise with the key on.  What do you guys think? 20250414_172604.mp4
    • Milkmun
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By Milkmun · Posted

      At least it was the ex.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Troubleshooting - motor wont turn over

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Quick update.  The engine grounding strap was replaced, the engine is now happily running.  Tested the voltage drop before replacing the strap, was about 1.2ish volts down between engine to battery, chassis to battery. With the new grounding strap, pretty much no voltage drop at all. 
×
×
  • Create New...