Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 with 3582r (i will check housing size 2moro for you) 18psi but with 264 cams.

Fuel reg on a r33 is good for high 300rwkw so your reg is not the issue.

post-34927-1245240645_thumb.jpg

Edited by URAS

Yeah, thanks for that. Doesnt matter what gear youre running , it all comes down to a proper tune doesn't it? Funny thing is this guy has one of the best reputations in Melbourne and the results to prove it, but i highly doubt that he tuned my car. Anyway i will post both dynos once i get it retuned elsewhere.

It's put in 4th gear so the tuner is able to tune it.

For example, you would not be able to tune a car in 1st gear because power just comes on way too quick.

Yes it does matter what gear you're in, 1st and 2nd gear will have much different power graphs compared to 4th gear.

Take it to another tuner to get a second opinion. Maybe something was wrong with the car (i.e. detonation) so the tuner had to pull timing out of it, hence the low power?

Maybe there's carbon build up in your engine causing pinging, or a hot spot on the piston.

Take it to another tuner, if he tells you he couldn't pull anything more than 250rwkw without it pinging of its tits, then somethings wrong with your car.

The fun and games begin.

Yeah thats exactly what im going to do. He said everything was fine, that there werent any issues and was actually quite happy. Its not that i want more power, cause its fine the way it is. Its just that i believe that with this set up (barring any issues such as the ones you mentioned) the car should have pulled more than it did. As i said i really got the impression it was done in rush to get the car out of there, and im sure it wasnt tuned by Mark himself.. I'll be booking it in this week sometime elsewhere..just for peace of mind!

got same setup, apart from I got the 0.82 A/R. I have a VERY conservative tune (f#$k all timing, and running rich, knock doesnt go over 15) and I made 312 rwkw at 17 PSI.

I suggest you go see another tuner.

the 0.82 makes 300 easy the 0.63 does not.

Edited by URAS

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • As title says  Pm a photo with what u have  Type m style would be good As Hidding a thick front mount
    • Just note that when trying to find a short in a globe power supply, it is best to disconnect the globe as it will allow current through to earth. With it unplugged it is easier not to get confused. Also with the r32 wiring, the high beam has 2 power supplies (one when you push the switch forward and the other when you temporarily pull it back; so if it is the high beam blowing you will need to trace both circuits
    • $75 Location: Gold Coast  Can post via Australia post
    • That's a short. Find the short. It will be somewhere between that fuse and the headlight. Start by removing the plugs from the back of the headlight and dimmer switches, and measure resistance to earth. Supply side (power from the fuse) should have none. The other side should have resistance compatible with whatever globe(s) is there (which is relatively easy to say for a normal globe, perhaps not as easy to say for LEDs). Anyway, if you have very low resistance, you defo have a short. Then you just have to run the wiring like you're running the bowel of a dog (on the operating table) that has swallowed something it wasn't supposed to.
    • Hey guys, need help figuring out why my driver side (RH) fuse 15amp keeps blowing. The Driver Sides Headlamp is out, i replaced these a long time ago with LED ones that were working for 1-2 years. Now, the driver side light is out and i traced it back to a broken fuse. I replaced the 15 amp fuse in the engine bay and as soon as i flip the headlight on, it blows the new fuse. Any idea what's going on?
×
×
  • Create New...