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HKS Wastegate Actuator. Questions...

PTR33

By PTR33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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PTR33 Proficient

PTR33

Posted
Posted

Anyone got one of the HKS wastegate actuators fitted to a stock R33 turbo?

How easy is it to adjust your boost with changing the length of the rod?

Is this a "better" solution than a bleed valve?

Surely replacing the stock actuator with the HKS one would be more stealthy than an add-on bleed valve for "someone" looking under the bonnet.

Thoughts anyone?

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27520-hks-wastegate-actuator-questions/
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BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

I found that boost would drop off when using a bleed valve on the stock actuator, from 15psi back to 10.

The HKS actuator allowed the base pressure to be set at 12 (which i use for a low boost setting) and with the bleed valve it now peaks at 15 and drops to about 13psi by 7000rpm.

It's a very easy job, you just need to remove a bunch of intake pipes and the turbo heat sheild. Then it's just 2 bolts holing the actuator and a clip at the wastegate flap. Just set it slightly shorter than the stock one and go for a drive. Then tighten it gradually until you get the boost you want.

Part number is 1430-RN006.

  • 2 weeks later...
devious17 Apprentice

devious17

Posted
Posted

I got one installed on my rb25 turbo and since then I never have to turn on my Profec B anymore. Boost is also stable at 0.9

I didn't reinstall the heat shield after taking them off.

As for the desired boost level you can get it setup on a dyno or do it on the road but of course you'll need to get out and into the hood more often than on a dyno.

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

I've got an adjustable HKS actuator but I still use the EBC as well. That's because the actuator is just a spring, and as such doesn't really have a set "on" or "off". It just slowly opens as the pressure on the wastegate causes it to open. This is how you get wastegate creep, and the EBC helps stop this by keeping the gate closed when the spring wants to slowly open.

I just set the actuator to the minimum boost I want to run (in my case 10psi or so) and then set the EBC to whatever I want to run at the time above this amount. This keeps the gate closed as tight as possible and lets the EBC do as little work as possible.

Brand new these actuators are around $300, but probably a lot less from Nengun or Greenline, or in my case, second hand. In theory you could modify a standard actuator to do the same thing because it's just a thread with locknuts on the rod, but I think it'd be more effort than it's worth. The HKS spring is also stronger than the standard item, and that's virtually impossible to change.

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

If you plan on running more than about 12psi or so they can be quite helpful in stopping gate creep. Or you can just get yourself a bunch of different bedsprings and make your own ghetto adjustable actuator by selecting the relevant one :( (my car came with one bedspring already attached).

Jimbo2000 Grand Master

Jimbo2000

Posted
Posted

yeah i had 2, one attached one not, when they attached the other one it shot up over 20psi so we said no to that and they pulled it off completely, thanks for the info maybe a $300 part might be all i need to be making the power i want, i know my cars got the potential to do it, it just need the right setup

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