Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI all, I don't get on the forums much these days, but I thought I'd share am easy way to fix gutter rash/minor curb damage on your rims.

Note: This will generally only work on silver/polished rims with small lip on edge of the main lip (if ya get what I mean!). But may be able to be used on other wheel for various functions such as sanding before paint/powder coating etc.

A while ago I bought some second hand Brabus rims for my ride. They were in good general condition, with the usual minor nicks here and ther. One of the front wheels had gutter rash all around the outer lip. It wasn't too deep, but it was damn ugly. Now, I am a cheap bastard being half asian, but I also love giving things a crack. I had heard the local rim repairer couldn't do 19" rims, but never bothered to investigate, so I decided I'd give fixing these a go myself.

First I went out and bought two cheapish files, a straright cut bastard, and a plain flat bastard. I was having new tyres put on, so had the current Hankooks removed as I was gonna sell them off anyway. While the tyre was off I got down to work and did this.

First photo is of original curbage when I bought them. And I have used the same method twice, second time was for my bros small curb incident. (He did send me a nice set of Bahco files though!)

Original curbage around lips lip! All the way around

Curbrash.jpg

Tyre is removed from wheel, car is jack up (axle stands used of course!) at the back and rim put on. Essentially this is the poor mans lathe. So to clairfy. The cars rear end is up, and on axle stands. I can't remember if I removed the othe side wheel, but I think I did. I tryed the car in 1st gear with the engine at warm idle. It was a bit too slow.

Image0111.jpg

I found second gear with the car at idle to be a great speed for the wheel to spin at. And basically I sit there with the files (straight cut bastard and a standard flat bastard) and work the curb rash away. Here you can see metal I have worked from the rim. After the rash was removed, I did a rough sand, then a finer sand. I can't remember the grits, but I'd imagine 180-200 and 300-400.

Image0109.jpg

First time I did it, I was having new tyres put on anyway, and second time round I had the tyres rotated (staggered set, directional tyres,can't rotate whole wheel). So all up it cost me only time and about $30 for the two files.

After the file I sanded it to a smoother finish, then applied a little metal polish. No need to paint as it looks fine how it is!

Pretty easy and cheap for an arvos work. As you can see, this won't work on all rims, but may be adapted to do some of the work yourself if you are having your wheels painted/powder coated etc.

Please also note that safety must be considered paramount at all times. Axle stands must be used at all times and a second person should be there in case of emergency. Keep hands away form the wheel spokes. You get a hand caught in there and your in a whole world of hurt. I take no responsibility if you are injured trying this process out.

Good luck, I hope this helps some of you!

Richie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275277-cheap-curb-rash-fix/
Share on other sites

yeah what they said .. if you're broke and can't afford a proper fix worth a try I guess. But seeing as how most pros charge $60-100 per wheel depending on damage, it's hardly worth the effort imho.

I got quoted $200 by Magman in Sydney to fix 2 wheels .. both have pretty bad gutter rash all around the outer lip and one of the wheels has a rather large chunk of metal (about 3-4cm) sticking out and needs to be welded back on

  • 2 weeks later...

so your sitting there with a file rubbing against the wheel while your car is jacked up and running on second gear. your broke but are you retarted as well? i would never trust jack/axle stands with the car running in gear at the same time. fromt he viberations of the cars running gear if the car falls you will get hurt pretty bad and your car will get damaged also.

i eman the results you got are great

but your method is very risky and id rather drive my car aroud with gutter rash and save up rather then doing it this way

  • 6 months later...

I dont know what some of you are complaining about. if you set it up properly it is perfectly safe.

i just did this, works great. after i finished with the file, i used some 120 sand paper and then finished off with 400.

i saved myself $150 a wheel and i actually enjoyed doing it.

i would be more worried about people hurting themselves with the tyre levers trying to get the tyre off the rim than actually hurting themselves filing the rim (i've changed a few sets of tyres on rims manually before and have had 1 or 2 close calls with tyre levers going flying up into the air). if you were worried about running the car to smooth out the rim, you could always just take the rim off and sit it on the ground and file it. wouldn't come out as nice though.

  • 3 weeks later...

you could always just hold the file on the outter side of the wheel so if you do slip your hand simple goes into the wheel arch, and if it does happen to hit the wheel it will only be the outside of the rim.

but to the people who are actually scared of this, there are a hell of a lot of more dangerous tools out there. basically all he is doing is using the car as a lathe. nothing scary there. i'd be more scared of a simply angle grinder than doing this (and i'm not scared of an angle grinder, although i am still cautious with them).

  • 3 months later...

Dont do this in an enclosed garage either... exhaust poisoning anyone???

But seriously, there are some people out there who should not be near tools, if they can handle them selves, and are farily good with this kind of thing... BIG dollar savings to be had.

I have done this in the past, just as long as you use common sense you should be ok. I also had a 2m kilswitch line rigged up too, so if you need to... hit the big red button. everything will stop rotating soon enough (especially in gear)

2nd person nearby is a VERY good idea aswell.

Not too shabby of a method. Provided you have a nice flat surface. People worrying about losing their hands. I doubt very much you need to apply such pressure onto the bastard to start shaving the wheel. Light pressure and keep your hands away from the gears. I would have tried this except my rims aren't silver, they're painted and I cbf matching the paint.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Major thread necro but how bad of a job is it to DIY? Looking at it online it looks like if you reuse your ring and pinion as long as those are in good condition it should be fine to just pull the axles/front cover and replace the diff that way? Or should I be replacing everything and doing preload measurements/gear mesh testing like the factory service manual mentions for the rear diff?
    • in my list I had the R33 GTR as the best Skyline. Infact I had all GTR's (33>34=32), the NSX, the GTO, the 300ZX, the 180SX, the S15 better than the FD RX7. I had the MR2 and the A80 as 'just' better. I also think the DC5R Integra looks better but this is an 01 onwards car. I also think the FC>FD. It's almost like aesthetics are individual! The elements @GTSBoy likes about the FD and dislikes about the 180 are inverse in my eyes. I hate the rear end of the FD and it's weird tail lights that are bulbous and remind me of early hyundai excels. They are not striking, nor iconic, nor retro cool. The GTO has supercar proportions. I maintain these look much better in person (like the NSX) especially with nice wheels and suspension which is mandatory for all cars pretty much. Some (or all) of these you have to see in person to appreciate. You can't write a car off until you see one in the flesh IMO. Like most people we probably just like/dislike cars which represent certain eras of design or design styles in general. I also think the 60's Jag E type looks HORRIBLE, literally disgusting, and the 2000GT is nothing to write home about. FWIW I don't think the Dodge Viper Gen1's have aged very well either. You can probably see where I rate bubbly coupes like the FD. I know we're straying now but the C4 and C5 absolutely murder the Viper in the looks department as time goes on, for my eyes. Wouldn't surprise me if people who love the FD, also love the MX5, Dodge Viper, Jag E Type, etc etc.
    • I used to hate R31s, and any of the other Nissans that led up to it, and any of the Toyotas with similar styling, because of the boxiness. They were, and remain, childish, simplistic, and generally awful. I appreciate R31s a lot more now, but only the JDM 2 door. The ADM 4 door (and any other 4 door, even if they are unique compared to our local one) can eat a bowl of dicks. The Aussie R31 is also forever tarnished by their association with stereotypical bong clutching Aussie R31 owners of the 90s and early 2000s. I think the Nissans of the 70s (other than 120Y/180B/200B) are far superior looking to the 80s cars. The 240K era Skylines are boss. The same is broadly true of Toyotas. Hondas don't ever register in my thinking, from any era. Mitsus are all horrid shitboxen in any era, and so also don't register. Subarus are always awful, ditto. Daihatsus and Suzukis also don't generally register. They are all invisible. I think the SW20 MR2 looks fiddly. The 3000GT/GTO is like that but way worse. Too many silly plastic barnacles and fiddly gimmicks ruined what could have been a really nice base shape. Kinda-sorta looks like a big heavy ST165 Celica coupe (and I'm not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing). I think the 180SX is dreadfully bland. It's not bad looking. But it has no excitement to it at all. It's just a liftback coupe thing with no interest in its lines, and bad graphical elements (ie wide expanses of taillight plastic on the rear garnish). The S13 Silvia is a little better - getting closer to R32 shapes. But still....bland. S14? Nope. Don't love it. S15...a little better. Probably a lot better, actually. Benefits from not being like a shrunk in the wash R34 (where the S13 was a shrunk in the wash R32 and the S14 looked like a Pulsar or something else from the stable on Nissan mid 90s horrors). The Z32 was hot as f**k when it came out but hasn't aged as well as the A80. Keep in mind that I think the R33 is the most disgusting looking thing - and out of all the previous cars mentioned is objectively closest to my precious R32. It's just....real bad, almost everywhere you look. And that is down to the majority of what was designed in the 90s being shit. All Nissans from that era look like shit. Most other brands ditto. In that context, the FD absolutely stands out as being by far the best looking car, for reasons already discussed. Going behind the aesthetics, the suspension alone makes it better than almost any other car.  
    • If they just called it the "Mazda Tiffany", it would have been spot on.
    • Yup but for me its the HR ! Cut my teeth on the old holden 6s in the day ! And here's me thinking in the day it was also the 300ZX and the Mitsubishi GT3000 ! All, as well had good lines, but always seemed to need finishing off, style wise.
×
×
  • Create New...