Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Parts And Gtst Parts


Recommended Posts

Hey guys just did a 26det conversion in my r32 gtst :) .So ive got parts left over from the half cut that i dont need.

R32 gtr dash -$150

R32 clutch master cylinder with booster -$100

R32 brake booster - $50

R32 gtst accl cable and pedal -$60

R32 pwr steering pump -$50

R32 gtr k frame -$100

R32 gtr rear cradle -$100

R32 gtst drive shafts -$80 each or $140 for both

R32 gtst diff in good nik -$150

R32 gtst tail shaft -$80

R32 gtst rear hubs -$100 each or $160 for both

R32 speedo cable -$30

Rb20 or 25 top mount exhaust manifold -$150

R32 gtst aftermarket dump pipe -$80

Rb20 motor only with intake manifold -$350

R32 side mirrors -$60pair

R32 gtst std computer -$150

R32 gtr mines tune computer -$350

and any thing more that ur after just ask and i may have it

also guys im not often on the forum(to busy working on my monsta) so its easy just to call me on 0406942756 any time day or night,im also located in melb north(millpark)

thanks guys

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Big claims here.  Any links up on the website ?   
    • If your HP goal is reasonable and you are not drifting. Buy a new R34 box.  If the above is not true, buy a wrecked R33 box and put a gearset in it.  CD09 are not as strong as you think and the cost of / mess around of the conversion puts you in gearset territory.    Also the deal above is awesome,, get that  
    • Just got back from a little hands-on with a G58 Baron....I was thinking about this... ..best I can figure it, that pinny was tail-ended ...I didn't really think about the wiring, because all that mattered was the tank and pump cradle (I think I mentioned the pump itself I couldn't vouch for)...which didn't matter, as you said you'd be replacing the pump anyway.... ...'for some reason'....and I imagine this is the panel shop's doing... they've replaced the cradle wiring with a metre of 7-core trailer loom, and attached the loom plug (from a different car) to that. The actual cable run from the top of the pump cradle, to fuel pump harness end in boot, is maybe 60cm in length...so I've no idea why they did this... ....the connector in the boot of the pinny, is not going to help you here...because in theory, it should still be present on your car. On top of that, because they've done what they did, we have no idea which colours of the trailer cabling, have been connected to what on the fuel pump cradle (pump +/- , shield, fuel guage/low-level senders)... ...this means, best approach is to remove the pump cradle, and re-work it now ...not later. That is, if you were going to replace the pump, do it, replace the soft lines at the same time...and sort the wiring out (replace that trailer cable with the wiring loom off your old cradle)...
    • Well, maybe not. The main feature of Chinese manufacture seems to be incredibly variable quality, coupled with an apparent willingness to find a way to see even the stuff that fails QC. So the military could still take the cream of the production run and somehow sell the "sellable but not really useable" stuff to the stupid round eyes on the other side of the world.
    • Have you adjusted the clutch pedal rod? You can wind it in to shorten it. Just can be a cnut to get to.
×
×
  • Create New...