Squeaky Brakes

[buckets]

hey man

ive had the car a week, so i dunno what pads are on them,

i put another coat on this morning and let it "soak in", and they have been quiet as.

if i want a permanent fix but, would putting on a good pair of stock pads and rotors be the best bet?

cheers for all the help

[boostn32]

LOL, rotors dont cause the problem its the pads, cheaper pads dont squeal due to having buger all metal in them,

good track pads have high metal content in them and all will squeal at some stage and its just the nature of the pad and they are harder

on rotors, cheaper pads wont squeal but dont have the performance of the dearer pads, then there is the low dust pads that would suit

grampa's 120y. also changing pads from street to track use is not the best idea as the pads and rotors get grooves in them and if there

is not a perferct contact accross the pad its like having brakes half the size, if you want good brakes you will get a bit of squeal and spraying good brakes

with stuff is just like putting in cheaper pads as they loose there performance value. Just something to think about.

if you do decide to get new pads, use your current rotors, machine them if there is enough meat left and select a pad to suit your application.

there is a sticky in this section on pads, have a read what other members think of the pads they use. get a price and contact me and i will see if i can do it cheaper.

[gotRICE?]

LOL, rotors dont cause the problem its the pads, cheaper pads dont squeal due to having buger all metal in them,

good track pads have high metal content in them and all will squeal at some stage and its just the nature of the pad and they are harder

on rotors, cheaper pads wont squeal but dont have the performance of the dearer pads, then there is the low dust pads that would suit

grampa's 120y. also changing pads from street to track use is not the best idea as the pads and rotors get grooves in them and if there

is not a perferct contact accross the pad its like having brakes half the size, if you want good brakes you will get a bit of squeal and spraying good brakes

with stuff is just like putting in cheaper pads as they loose there performance value. Just something to think about.

if you do decide to get new pads, use your current rotors, machine them if there is enough meat left and select a pad to suit your application.

there is a sticky in this section on pads, have a read what other members think of the pads they use. get a price and contact me and i will see if i can do it cheaper.

This is why i was thinking of having a seperate set of rotors for the track too. Its piss easy to change em anyway. And dont the pads leave a sort of "surface" on the rotor? Hence bedding in processes etc?

This way you dont mix n match. Seems to be the only way i can think of getting around my squeaky issue. And i use OEM pads

[boostn32]

Yeah thats one way to do it. as those pads suit those rotors.

[Wacky Dee]

some 'cheap' pads like QFM HP-X/A1RM squeal too ... I'm guessing they have a fairly high metal content in them. Mine are quealing like a bitch as soon as they warm up after a 10 min drive (only when slowing down to stop..no squeal on hard brakes)

Anyone got any approx. idea how much Nissan charge for the OEM front pads for an R34 GTT ? Are there any other pads that are usually silent on the front but give better grip than the OEMs?

[boostn32]

If you glaze the pads any type will squeal, just stating what i do and recommend for my customers and haven't had a problem yet.

[Moodles2]

Go on and on and on about de-squeek........ how long would it take to get the current pads out, take the shims out (clean them if you want, not necessary though) and put lithium or copper grease (heck any thick grease) between the shim and pad like the Nissan service manual says so. put the shims back on and slot the pads back in.. wouldnt take longer than 20 minutes each corner if you were taking your time

[Joe_89]

Go on and on and on about de-squeek........ how long would it take to get the current pads out, take the shims out (clean them if you want, not necessary though) and put lithium or copper grease (heck any thick grease) between the shim and pad like the Nissan service manual says so. put the shims back on and slot the pads back in.. wouldnt take longer than 20 minutes each corner if you were taking your time

Tried that and didnt work, THATS why i resorted to the de-squeek stuff.

And i also said that the pads still work more than well enough when using the de-squeek and i didnt see any degrading in effectiveness of the pads. You think they could sell it if it did?

[boostn32]

Good one Moodles2 good to see you know what is supposed to be done.

[Wacky Dee]

copper grease on the shims didnt do jack for me either..

[JSTA33]

ive got the bendix ultimate ones on stock rotors, and the always squeek till they warm up.. thats how it was even with my previous pads (not sure what type)

ive tryed that spray on shit, and it didnt work, so i learnt to live with it,.. i just keep my brakes warm, like ride them every now and then.

other wise they cool off really quik, and they squeek at the lights and in carparks, etc.

[Wacky Dee]

Weird because mine don't start squealing until they've warmed up (a few hard brakes will do the job) I wish someone could explain this whole squealing thing when hot/cold only..