Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtr - Is This Rust Common? (hard To Explain - Pics Attached!)


Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls,

I have a bit of rust in a section which is a bit hard to explain. its near the bottom front window plastic and under the side guard. (i've taken a few pics)

It hasnt gotten any worse in the close to 3 years i have owned her and only looks like surface rust. I've been meaning to sand it back, seal and recoat with some touch up paint for a while but havent got around to it yet.

Anyway, is this a common problem? Does anyone else have it? :(

Any info or advice would be appreciated.

Cheers!

post-54322-1245517684_thumb.jpgpost-54322-1245517887_thumb.jpg

post-54322-1245517968_thumb.jpg

Edited by KR4-GTR

Just a couple of Qs...

It looks as if there's been some fixed-up panel damage > re-weld does it not?

It looks like surface rust only; but is there any bubbling especially if you press on it?

Have the corners of the panel bolts been chamfered as if the panel's been taken off?

Does water sit there after rain or wash?

Does the moulding at the base of the windscreen need replacing?

btw, surface rust can lead to 'cancer'

if its stabilised for past 3 years why worry about it - for peace of mind a quick fix is to get a spray can of fish oil and spray the discoloured area this seals and prevents against any rust - will kill any rust if it is rust - done !

if its stabilised for past 3 years why worry about it - for peace of mind a quick fix is to get a spray can of fish oil and spray the discoloured area this seals and prevents against any rust - will kill any rust if it is rust - done !

Touche'... that is what I am going to do until one day I can get a respray!

I think you will find its not corrosion in the usual sense - I think its that the finish colour has been applied very thinly over the etch prime in out of place areas when the body is painted at the factory - you see the same discolouration in various places in some Jap (and other country) cars e.g. inside where intrusion bars are fitted in doors , in hard to get to places on the body panels where front bar is fitted etc - its normal , just like orange peel finish was normal on outer underside edges of US made cars some years ago

where can one purchase this fish oil stuff from? do they come in them sprayable cans?

repco supacheap ..........everywhere - about $6-8 usual larger size spray can

when it dries fully it is usually clear - you could spray paint over it if necessary

yeah my series 2 gtst has the eaxact same surface rust..... just how the buggers are.... i'd only really worry about rust if you see it bubbleing and going down deep..... usually first place serious rust starts on our imports is under the wheel arches where the japs throw salt on the icy roads to reduce the slipperyness of the roads.....

hey ya'll just been doing some reading on the various treatments of rust ... apparently fishoil is good for preventing any new rust but it won't get rid of any existing stuff plus it doesn't penetrate existing rust which could lead to more rust

Apparently a product called 'Penetrol' available from Bunnings actually penetrates rust deep and takes away the Oxygen and stops any further rust from forming .. apparently don't even need to clean the rust spots up before applying this stuff. Anyone used it before ?

  • 3 years later...

I've got alittle bit of this surface rust starting both sides, Do not like looking at it. Cars mint other then this, So would like to fix it.

How would I go about fixing it. It looks simple enough to do myself, Taking side skirts,front fenders and front bar off is the only fear I have, Then sand it body filler if needed then paint it, And make it look beautifull again, Has anyone had this and fixed it. Did you go to panel beater or DIY it?

Or is going this far not necessary, it just looks sh#t

Edited by dyl33

The Conversion Paint is easily brushed on with a quality long hair brush. It does not affect the colour of your existing paint, because it dries clear. Within an hour the difference is there before your eyes.

The Fish Oil I have is in an aerosol can.

This process stopped any more rusting of an Alfa Romeo in its tracks. Any automotive paint shop has it - but I don't know about Repco/Auto1/Supercheap

Hmmm, I usually treat rusts with the usual wire brushing for removal, then zinc spray (lightly), then spray paint over. No oils of any kind or rust converters. Opinions in this gents? Never knew about fish oil until reading through SAU forums, got to learn boatloads, especially from the build section.

I had the same problem and although it wasnt progressing over a few years i still decided to fix it. Just remove the arch, wire brush and sand it back as far as u can to really clean it up. Its usually just surface rust with some pitting. Then apply some rust converter (which youll get from supercheap etc.), give that the recommended time to penetrate and then u should be able to blend the colour or ive just sprayed the area matt black because it cant be seen unless u look. Thatll hold it off for quite awhile. Ive had no issues since.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No intention of driving the car the way it's set up now, just wanting to make sure I haven't made any mistakes along the way so that the tune can go smoothly, I don't want to waste anyone's time with stupid issues. And of course I intend to get it towed to the dyno in a completed state 😅 I have the base fuel pressure with the vacuum disconnected set at about 40psi, which I believe is at least relatively close to stock fuel pressure, maybe I'll have a fiddle with the reg and see what happens. For all I know I could be wasting my time with this and I should just plumb it in and see what the tuner reckons. I just find it a bit strange that it seems to be under so much load just free revving, but maybe that's just a result of the turbo slowing down the exhaust gasses and making a restriction in the flow, with no boost to compensate.
    • The boy just hit up google translate and it worked a treat, he said step one was "please urinate with precision and elegance", he then sent me the correct translation  I get some new loctite for the small fixtures tomorrow and get some "dort" going after that 🤣
    • Right, so is the fuel pressure the same as it was previously? If not, well, it's not going to work well. I can understand the theory I assume you are going for, which is: "Run it N/A, and if I have the original AFM, and same amount of fuel and intake air as previously, the fact there's a turbo in my exhaust should still make it run" Which it... might? Provided you don't actually change how much air or fuel is going into the car.. or getting out. But if you have changed that, all bets are off. What is the purpose to even have the car run this way? To get it to a tuner? And if the goal is to limp it to a tuner, you're still going to what - plumb up a whole intercooler system and new intake in the parking lot out front before your tune......?
    • Haha yea it's a bit of a weird setup at the moment, just wanted to make sure I sorted out any headaches before dyno day. At the moment I've changed the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe, 460lph fuel pump and rising rate reg as well as the previously mentioned headstuds and gasket. The nistune was already mapped for the car as it was and drove around for a few months no worries. The plan is to run flex fuel hence the big pump, which I've wired direct to the battery through a relay to avoid voltage issues.
    • Um. Was the ECU the same as the one previously there? I know R33's needed R32 GTST ECU's or other tomfoolery to run Nistune. This is such a wild setup. Most people would plumb in the turbo then not drive the car (i.e tow it to a tuner). What's actually changed since it last ran?
×
×
  • Create New...