Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey just wanted to get an opinion of what u think i should an can do to my r33gtst with $2000.00.. has got greddy bov, hks pod, 3'' exaust from dump back an is boosted to 12psi already..! was thinking of frontmount an dump.. uping boost to 15psi.. i can get that done for around $1500.00.. so still got alittle to play with untill such time.. what do u think? dont want to do all that much to it but..!??? should that give me a good power gain..?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275677-new-mods/
Share on other sites

adding a dump pipe won't increase the boost unless it is a poor design and doesn't alloy the wastegate to flow properly.

unless you have an aftermarket ecu you won't be able to run 15psi anyway, although you would gain power from doing it, but you may find your turbo doesn't last very long before it goes on a diet (and the exhaust wheel comes off the turbo and makes friends with your catalytic converter)

if a dump pipe is costing you $1500, i really suggest you find a new place to shop unless you get a shag every night for a week from a really hot chick with it. just get a cheap split dump pipe for about $100. i had one on my 33 and it worked fine.

i would also get a fmic kit, especially if you are running 12psi through the stock one. the stock cooler will suffer heat soak after only a few hard accelerations and basically won't be doing much cooling after that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275677-new-mods/#findComment-4669810
Share on other sites

adding a dump pipe won't increase the boost unless it is a poor design and doesn't alloy the wastegate to flow properly.

unless you have an aftermarket ecu you won't be able to run 15psi anyway, although you would gain power from doing it, but you may find your turbo doesn't last very long before it goes on a diet (and the exhaust wheel comes off the turbo and makes friends with your catalytic converter)

if a dump pipe is costing you $1500, i really suggest you find a new place to shop unless you get a shag every night for a week from a really hot chick with it. just get a cheap split dump pipe for about $100. i had one on my 33 and it worked fine.

i would also get a fmic kit, especially if you are running 12psi through the stock one. the stock cooler will suffer heat soak after only a few hard accelerations and basically won't be doing much cooling after that.

nah..! that price includes the dump,r33 front mount and fitted an a service..! not to bad.. cheap. think ill keep the 12psi but.. dont want to kill the turbo.. yet!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275677-new-mods/#findComment-4670098
Share on other sites

$2k?

I would spend 600 on a stage 2 advanced driving course and 1400 on a set of track tyres. you've already got everything else you need to go quick in the car

u dont think i need a front mount an dump pipe to give that little extra..?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275677-new-mods/#findComment-4670107
Share on other sites

you do NEED a front mount. as mad082 mentioned earlier that the stock cooler will be suffering from heat soak.

get the dump pipe.

go get a nistune done as well and that will keep you happy for the time being.

yer i think that is the go for sure.. do u think that will give me close to 200rwkw..? thats really all iam aiming for off this car.?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275677-new-mods/#findComment-4670312
Share on other sites

the issue with the stock turbo is the ceramic exhaust wheel. when they are highflowed they usually have a steel wheel put on (as where it sits is made larger so needs a larger wheel). the limit to what you can run then is then down to mods and what pressure it stops making power, but would be well above 15psi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275677-new-mods/#findComment-4673653
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...