Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A mate of mine has offered me a bottle of "Roil" Oil Additive and

I'm dubious about adding anything but octane booster to my engine.

Apparently it's a better version of "Slick 50", without the teflon & other solids in it.

Does anyone have any experience with this stuff, comments or otherwise?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27568-roil-enginegearbox-oil-additive/
Share on other sites

I spoke to a distributer of this Product while i was at work. After eavesdropping on a conversation i was having with a customer on a Nulon PTFE (Chemical abreviation for a substance better known as the Teflon trademark) engine additive product, he approached me after this customer had left. He handed me his business card and said: "That Nulon stuff doesn't work, try this..." It all sounded like a typical salesperson sledging a competing product and trying to promote his own "... that stuff polishes and glazes the bores, that's no good. This stuff is petroleum based and works with your existing oil, not a solid like PTFE."

He went on to describe why it was better and that he'd tested all of the products on the market and said his product withstood the most pressure when it was compressed in between metal to metal. He said he had done extensive testing on his mates nitro drag-bike.

**In my own opinion, i've only ever used PTFE/Teflon products where there is metal to metal contact in manual gearboxes and diffs. Nulon and Slick 50 are the main two here. Not so sure about them being brought into the combustion process of an engine though...**

I am still a bit apprehensive, since it wasn't a mainstream product, but would be interested in the results. I would say it would be similar to Morey's Or Lucas' "Oil Stabiliser".

Anyone else had any experiences or comments? I am still curious.

I generally believe that noone should use oil suppliments unless its a last resort sorta thing. Oil is carefully formulated to do its job. Adding other stuff to it can ruin this balance.

PTFE might have some value in a gearbox, but I definitely would not try using the stuff in an engine. No direct metal to metal contact should occur in an engine, or a gearbox for that matter. If that was the case, a gearbox would sieze up pretty quick. Try running a box w/o oil and see what happens! hahah

Btw Lucas Oil Stabiliser is just a thickener and shouldnt be used unless your gearbox is stuffed or something. Its been proven to cause excess foaming which is no good for lubricating gears..

Busky2k, I totally agree with EVERYTHING you have said. I was more interested in getting some feedback from people who might know more about it or have had good or bad experiences with it. Just curious and keen to add it to my "knowledge vault". :( hehe

I haven't put much more thought into it until recently seeing it again at a car show on display.

My thoughts are that they'd be more suited to an old clapped out Holden or Ford 6/V8 which has a had a hard life in regards to worn rings, worn valve-stem seals, etc. or a manual gearbox/diff which is whiney. "A band-aid fix".

Like i said, i'd only like to see the PTFE additives used in metal to metal contact like meshing gears and bearings in a manual gearbox and the crown-wheel and pinion in a diff...

It's interesting to note that my own opinions don't always match the claims of these companies' products, although ironically, I'm paid to help sell these...

:)

The life of a retail automotive employee...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was more thinking so it doesn't flop around as much rather than for rotating it. Once you have the balance right, it should rotate well enough, depending on how much resistance there is on the pivot. I think you said the pivot point was on a bearing though didn't you?
    • You can get them with the worm drive rotator but I was too tight to pay another $250-$300 so manual labour it is! I don't think it will be too hard to rotate though. 
    • Sag as in the windows start to slowly open themselves, or they're just slow to go up/down with engine off?
    • It looks like it needs a big worm gear drive on it to control the rotating, not a few sloppy pins!
    • As Duncan said, first there was OBD, which few cars used, then came OBD2.   Now an interesting point, OBD2 isn't even for what you want to do. OBD2 is for emissions testing. There is some sensor data on OBD2, but it's up to the manufacturer what they're putting on it. Most scan tools operate on UDS, which like OBD2 is a standard built on-top of CAN. UDS specifies how to structure a message, what very limited things mean such as "read memory address" but it does not specify what is stored in which memory address, that is all up to the manufacturer. You either a scan tool compatible with that vehicle, or to know how to reverse engineer all the data, which can take a VERY long time and a lot of vehicles to get it right. Oh and then the manufacturer does a firmware update and changes what's where... Ask me how I know that as fact Oh, and by the time you've got the scan tool that supports all the manufacturers stuff, well, you're back at "But a consult cable and the Nissan software" The main difference being most manufacturers software these days works with the same hardware readers, as the readers are built to support J2534 which is another standard for how the PC communicates with the tool to make it do specific things on the car...
×
×
  • Create New...