Jump to content
SAU Community

Par Gearset/dog Engagement

NYTSKY
 Share

Recommended Posts

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

Having pretty much destroyed my gearbox, im in the market for a strong replacement.

We all know OS gearsets are good for the money but im leaning towards a DOG engagement gearbox.

With PPG the leader in the market for these there is another option with PAR.

Just wondering is there anyone out there who has one of PARs gearsets with dog engagement?

Comments?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275779-par-gearsetdog-engagement/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Don't think its been used yet, but Anna just bought a par dog box for her 33, and Mark and I are going to go that way for the 32 (straight cut as well).

There was a thread recently discussing some opinions, Brad in particular has used a wide range of them including par, ppg and holinger

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ive chosen to go with a PPG Helical 1st-4th DOG (Syncho 5th)

Now all i need is to find someone that sells them at a decent price.

Anyone have any suggestions or know someone who has an account with a supplier that could do me a good deal?

Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted (edited)

Dont buy a helical PPG box. You will break it.

Straight cut or nothing when it comes to dog engagements.

Been there done that with pretty much all of them. PPG is far better than most though

The ONLY one id now recommend is the H pattern Hollinger which is what I suspect is in my car now but not certain. Buy the H6S its pretty much the same box as my H6S-SEQ but a H pattern

You'll need a bellhouse ing its the only bomb proof box I would trust. I know of some second hands ones coming up for sale if your interested. Pretty well priced too.

Edited by Risking
Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted
Dont buy a helical PPG box. You will break it.

Straight cut or nothing when it comes to dog engagements.

Been there done that with pretty much all of them. PPG is far better than most though

The ONLY one id now recommend is the H pattern Hollinger which is what I suspect is in my car now but not certain. Buy the H6S its pretty much the same box as my H6S-SEQ but a H pattern

You'll need a bellhouse ing its the only bomb proof box I would trust. I know of some second hands ones coming up for sale if your interested. Pretty well priced too.

We have a PPG helical dog in our street/circuit GTR and its a bit of a bitch on the street...very clunky and you really have to smash it into gear. We have not had any problems with it though and its done about 12000klms, been thrashed a fair bit and done Superlap. The straight cut in the drag car is so much nicer to shift and can be upshifted effortlessly using only 2 fingers. The whine in 5th is annoying though and makes highway cruising in Twoogle a bit unpleasant.

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hmm interesting.

With the amount of punishment my standard box has taken i cant believe the gear teeth are still attached.

1st,2nd and even 3rd gear launches and still no breakage (excluding syncros)

Which is why im thinking the PPG helical cut "has" to be far far stronger.

The noise of a straight cut would get on my nerves after a while especially on cruises.

Brad, the gearsets that you might have for sale, are they all needing a new bellhousing?

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted
Hmm interesting.

With the amount of punishment my standard box has taken i cant believe the gear teeth are still attached.

1st,2nd and even 3rd gear launches and still no breakage (excluding syncros)

Which is why im thinking the PPG helical cut "has" to be far far stronger.

The noise of a straight cut would get on my nerves after a while especially on cruises.

Brad, the gearsets that you might have for sale, are they all needing a new bellhousing?

I think if Brad cannot come up with something Dave the PPG helical would be the best option then. The straight cut is a fairly noisy box, where as the helical is much quieter but harsher to shift. Come up and have a drive of the car if you like to see what you think.

Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted

I can come up with the hollingers within a decent time frame. Its a matter of the people I can buy them from getting them as well.

They are ex super car boxes which have been serviced and rebuilt. Ill ask whats available.

But yes it would need a bell housing attatched and a tail shaft made up.

Im not a fan of helical gears. They have pros and cons and im a performance situation there is a reason most good things are straight cut. But your right the noise does drive you insane.

The hollinger would work out more expensive than a PPG though. If your interested ill ask the question

  • 3 months later...
PJ. Proficient

PJ.

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have a couple of friends running the PPG helical dog's in their GT-R's, both of which make just over 800hp and they have not smashed them. They have not done mega km's but when they come out they get absolutely punished. Launched every time, 3rd gear burnouts.

Looking at my OS Giken and PPG gear sets side by side and going off the tooth profile, if TWO-06L didn't smash his OS Box, and you haven't smashed your standard one, then there is NO WAY that you'll smash a PPG Helical cut unless it falls off the delivery truck!

Edited by PJ.
Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted
I have a couple of friends running the PPG helical dog's in their GT-R's, both of which make just over 800hp and they have not smashed them. They have not done mega km's but when they come out they get absolutely punished. Launched every time, 3rd gear burnouts.

Looking at my OS Giken and PPG gear sets side by side and going off the tooth profile, if TWO-06L didn't smash his OS Box, and you haven't smashed your standard one, then there is NO WAY that you'll smash a PPG Helical cut unless it falls off the delivery truck!

Dave drives the street/circuit car like a demon...with over 600hp at all 4...still going strong.

timsr33 Community Regular

timsr33

Posted
Posted

### gear sets are strong as but there head mechanic is a absolute #### head and thinks he noes every thing and miss alines the the shafts so your box will jump gear and wont take responsability but the owner is really nice just has to much faith in his head mechanic its a pity really if it wasnt for me haveing to get my gear box rebuilt 3 times by ### witch still couldnt get it right then i had to take to to another gear box builder who got it spot on first time

ive been so temped to take ### to the accc but i dont want the head aiche and ide be happy to mention there name but i no your not a loud to bad mouth companies on forums all i can say is be careful dealing with par

thanks tim

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • SeanR32GtSt
      Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

      By SeanR32GtSt · Posted

      I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • hypergear
      Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

      By hypergear · Posted

      Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Desean Strickland
      Need help/advice with bearing taper clearance, eccentricity and arp studs.

      By Desean Strickland · Posted

      Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • soviet_merlin
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...