Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 372
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I have to ask the silly questions :P

so as I understand it, it's $320 per kart, so if I have say 4 drivers it would be $80 each?

2nd question is for those that have done the race before, how many 'forced' pit stops are there i.e. for fuel, etc. and how many times did you have to stop in the race? I'm just trying to work out how/when driver changes should be done.

I have to ask the silly questions :wub:

so as I understand it, it's $320 per kart, so if I have say 4 drivers it would be $80 each?

2nd question is for those that have done the race before, how many 'forced' pit stops are there i.e. for fuel, etc. and how many times did you have to stop in the race? I'm just trying to work out how/when driver changes should be done.

Correct for the kart question, but 4 drivers would put you at a dis-advantage as it's an extra 2 pit-stops to change drivers. Not having done this before I can't answer the other question, but the driver change should be in the middle of the race so both drivers have an equal amount of time out there, paying the same amount of money after all :P

If you veer off into the dirt you will get a flag waved at as just as you PASS the pit lane (for some reason) meaning you have to pit for a chain re-oiling, keeps dem inner working sprightly.

2 drivers is best, you will realise that time flies when your on the track and 22 minutes per driver, with 4 drivers is 8 minutes less track time than we had at the first outing.

Edited by Topaz

2 drivers sounds good, but I don't think they would be in it to win it so to speak, so my options are to find someone that wants to do it competitively or go there with a few mates and perhaps have a bit of fun rather than all out attack, in which case having many pit stops won't be of any real concern.

Correct for the kart question, but 4 drivers would put you at a dis-advantage as it's an extra 2 pit-stops to change drivers. Not having done this before I can't answer the other question, but the driver change should be in the middle of the race so both drivers have an equal amount of time out there, paying the same amount of money after all :)

There's not too many people who can handle 45min in a Kart that is vibrating to buggery, so you'll find even with two drivers you'll pit a couple times each.

There's not too many people who can handle 45min in a Kart that is vibrating to buggery, so you'll find even with two drivers you'll pit a couple times each.

True that!

I spent 28 minutes in the kart at the first event and does tend to make the body hurt.

However, having Mike as the *cough* team boss, i was in no position to argue with him.

(Have you seen the size of him??????????)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
×
×
  • Create New...