Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i finally just got my 34, it is decked out with G-Reddy stuff like emanage, boost controller, turbo timer, removable fuel map computer.

When i boost then bak off and want the car to drop to idle again sometimes it will fall down to about 100RPM, and sometimes kickup or sometimes stall.

I am going to turn up the idle a bit tomrorow hopefully it will help, Have you guys got any other ideas ?

Thanks.

Eddie:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27619-r34-stalling/
Share on other sites

Yeah I would agree with R34GTT if you have an aftermarket BOV this would almost definately be the reason for stalling and RPM drop. Does this also occur when you have the air-con working? However Like I have always said, aftermarket ECU's don't control base idle settings too well at all, a re-tune of your base idle settings may be in order, this worked for me in my old silvia. hope this helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27619-r34-stalling/#findComment-578563
Share on other sites

yeh man its got a greddy Type R, And by the look of it, its a plumb back BOV but the guy thats used to own it has disconected it so it will run loud, not a good thing i dont think,. i will set it bak up in Plumb back and up the idle today and see how that goes.

Anyone know anywere good in Sydney for 34s ? i ws thinking Advan but im not sure.

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27619-r34-stalling/#findComment-578689
Share on other sites

As others have said.

BOV, the ECU expects it to be plumbed back, and because it isnt being done that way, the ECU is flipping out.

My car does it also, because i have no BOV at all (other end of the scale to you) But same problem.

You can get used to it, i have. Mine never stalls anymore. You just get used to blipping the throttle and keeping it in gear.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27619-r34-stalling/#findComment-580536
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...