Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive got a heap of parts that i need to clear that i no longer need

Genuine trust t88-33d turbo kit, includes manifold, w/gate, oil and water lines plus dump pipe to suit a 32 gtr. Has the 18cm rear housing, pics in the link below

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/T8...44#entry4657344

$2600, no offers price is firm

Full set of R33 GTR rims in excellent condition with mickey thompson et street drag radials, have only done 10 passes with no burnouts, still like new. Will not seperate rims and tyres

$1750 no offers

R34 GTR steering wheel, excellent condition, airbag still in tackt, suit series 2 & 3 r33 gtrs

$450

R33 GTR vspec stock ecu with HKS Fcon V fuel and ignition piggy back ecu, all wirring

$100

R33 GTR stock exhaust manifolds, Excellent condition

$100 for both

Torque split controller with 2wd/ 4wd switch, perfect for r32 GTRs, brand new, never used

$120

Bride style seats, retrimmed in black suede, good condition, only 1 tiny tear in side bolster. comes with s14 rails

$400

R33 gtst standard front brake rotors, good condition

$60

Also in about 3-4 weeks i have a set of R34 GTR seats arriving from japan. out of a 99 R34 GTR In very good condition

$1800

All items are located in wollongong, Pick up on heavy items such as turbo kit and seats all others can be posted at buyers expense

if you have any further questions feel free to pm me.

post-22977-1245895920_thumb.jpg

post-22977-1245896005_thumb.jpg

post-22977-1245896155_thumb.jpg

post-22977-1245896261_thumb.jpg

post-22977-1245896318_thumb.jpg

post-22977-1245896459_thumb.jpg

post-22977-1245896751_thumb.jpg

post-22977-1245896903_thumb.jpg

post-22977-1245897057_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276366-parts-clearance/
Share on other sites

willing to sell just the rear swaybar mate?will need it posted to adelaide,pm me if you want

nah mate wana get rid of them together and dont realy wana post as they are fairly big items

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276366-parts-clearance/#findComment-4695241
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is there a diameter difference in the stock to Nismo? If so, the weight alone won't be indicative when comparing flywheels of the same diameter, since the radius of the flywheel acts on the moment of inertia with a square factor, where as mass is linear. Roughly going from a 4.5kg flywheel with radius 20cm, to a 9kg flywheel with radius 14cm would see them act the same. This calc is just here to act as a brief numbers comparison and reflects no actual RB flywheel diameters etc. it also assumes even weight distribution (thickness) throughout.
    • It seems this could be due to a restructure/team direction change... Or... You're working with a different category of vehicle... Or you've decided you'd rather be able to play with your own cars again...   I'm hoping the latter...
    • had 4 weeks off over xmas and well did some stuff to the shed and BRZ, well short of is I don't work full time in supercars anymore as of yesterday.........
    • Did you get any down time over Christmas, or have you had any since to play with this? Or have you given up and are trying to get yourself a second hand V8SC instead?
    • A random thought I had just before I hit "Submit on this post". If brake fluid, in a container in my garage that has never been opened goes bad after 18 months, why can I leave it in my car for 24 months in an "unsealed container"... Secondly, some other digging, and brake fluid manufacturers seem to be saying 5 year shelf life... Me thinks there line on 18 months for an unsealed bottle is pretty much horse shit marketing spin. Kind of like how if you drive a car and don't run a turbo timer your turbo and motor will die horribly...   Where I started on this though... Someone (me) started down a bit of a rabbit hole, I don't quite have the proper equipment to do Equilibrium Reflux boiling per the proper test standards. I did a little digging on YouTube, and this was the first video I found on someone attempting to "just boil it". This video isn't overly scientific, as we don't have a known reference for his test either. Inaccuracy in his equipment could have him reaching the 460 to 470f boiling point range in reality. In the video, using a laser temp gun, he claims his Dot3 that's been open in his florida garage for over a year gets to about 420 to 430 fahrenheit (215 to 221c) Doing some googling, I located an MSDS for that specific oil, and from new, it claims a dry boiling point of 460 to 470f. Unfortunately they don't list a wet boiling point for us to see how far it degraded toward its "wet" point. While watching it I was thinking "I wonder what the flash point is..." turns out its only 480f for that specific brake fluid....   As for testing the oil's resistance, I might not be able to accurately do that unfortunately. Resistance level will be quite a LOT higher than my system can read I suspect based on some research. However, I might be able to do it by measuring the current when I apply a specific voltage. I won't have an actual water % value, but I'll have some values I can compare between the multitude of fluids. I'll run some vague calculations later and see if I should be able to read any reliable amount of current. These calcs will be based on some values I've found for other oils, and see how close I'll need my terminals together. From memory I can get down to 1pA accuracy on the DMM. I don't think my IOT Power Tester has any better resolution.    
×
×
  • Create New...