Jump to content
SAU Community

Which Skyline model should I buy?


Recommended Posts

Guest inf0rmer

Hi all,

I'm a Calibra owner. Nice car, drives frickin boodifully, nothing wrong with it - except that we're preggers, and now have to get a four door! OMG, I said, not the car! If I could just stick another cuppla doors in there, I'd be happy

So, what do I trade to? I'm totally happy with my Cally, and it's gonna REALLY break my heart to see her go. She's been modded up somewhat. Love gaining respect from those WRX ScoobyDoo owners out there

Anyways, I pretty much like the shape of the Skyline but I'm a bit one-eyed when it comes to anything outside of the Calibra range.

Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what is available? I'm wanting to spend around $20k, but might stretch the budget a $k or two if the right car came along.

What's the diff between the R31 and R33 - is there an R32. How do I tell if it's got a turbo (gotta have one of these). Do all turbos come with FMIC's? Does the 4-door come in a turbo, etc?

kW Power? Standard, turbo, turbo +FMIC, chipped? etc?

Okay, so I'm a bit of a knob for not knowing anything about them, but hey!

Thanks guys,

unf, unf

inf0rmer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2764-which-skyline-model-should-i-buy/
Share on other sites

Guest Boxhead
Originally posted by inf0rmer

What's the diff between the R31 and R33 - is there an R32.  

How do I tell if it's got a turbo (gotta have one of these).  

ok firstly main differnence between r31 and r33, is one is square, and one has curves, yes there is an r32, i have one, there are plenty out there, my car is in my avatar but right now its a bit dirtier thankx to a local farm...

umm im pretty sure that by Law, a dealership has to tell you turbo or not...

I think you'd probably be best off looking at an R33. By what you've written I think you'd find the R31 and R32 a bit dated.

R33 turbo has 187kw, same as the 2-door

GTS-T = turbo, GTS = non turbo

If you've got 20k to spend, you should be able to pick one up easy. Most go for a lot less than that. You'd be looking at a 93-95 model most probably (96 series2 models are available but seem much rarer).

Auto's also seem much more common than manuals, so you might have to search around a bit more if you want a manual.

I've attached a pic of a pretty standard 4-door R33 :P

And here's one not quite so standard :P

this one was manual, factory purple, grade 4....for sale in Jap thru an importer, price round the 20 grand mark.

That silver one in my previous post cost under $12k (auto, grade 4, 54,000kms).

I'm not really sure what dealers in Oz would charge though...

FMIC comes standard on GTR's only. And they aren't 4 doors. :P

GTS-t's have a small intercooler on the passengers side, look in the front bar and you'll see. Can fit FMIC's on them though. But do you really want to scare the kid?

By the way, how hard was it to mod the Calibra? Not too many modified Calibra's in Australia. And is yours the 4WD Turbo one?

Silver-dude,

There is a very limited number of 4 door GTR's that were made by Nissan's tuning arm Autech. There's actually one for sale in Aus at the moment. The look pretty good, the ultimate family 4 door.

I tried attaching a pic below, hope it works.

Bobby

Guest inf0rmer

Thanks guys, lots of help there.

Looks mebbe that the GTR is a little outta my price range. Oh well...

So with the small intercooler on the passenger side, is this to reduce the temp of the cold air intake (and hence, provide more power), as with a normal FMIC? What extra kW power would you say it would provide over the turbo by itself (for both the small passenger side one and the FMIC)?

Calibra's are pretty difficult to mod once you've done the standard Superchip, air intake and exhaust type things. Turbo mods, FMIC's, breather mods etc are all a little difficult over here as the market for them is small. I've had a few mods done, and she goes like the clappers. Unfortunate that I have to get rid of her. Anyways, life's like that sometimes.

I'm actually off to a dealership in Cannington here in Perth this morning. They tell me that they have four 4-door Skyline's in stock, so I'm interested to see what they're like.

I went along to http://www.j-spec.com.au and saw a few nicities in there. I did a Yen to AUD conversion and these car dealers look like they pay peanuts for these cars. I suppose there are things like shipping, compliance, etc to pay, but really, does it cost that much? One dealer told me that they have to replace all of the seatbelts and tyres once they've been imported - is this true? How much would you expect to pay to import a car, compliance it, and then pay for all ORC?

Thanks for your help so far, hopefully I'll be driving around in a Skyline soon :P

unf unf,

inf0rmer

Originally posted by inf0rmer

I suppose there are things like shipping, compliance, etc to pay, but really, does it cost that much?  One dealer told me that they have to replace all of the seatbelts and tyres once they've been imported - is this true?  How much would you expect to pay to import a car, compliance it, and then pay for all ORC?

inf0rmer, yes it's true....seatbelts, side mirror glass, child restraint anchor points, plus other safety requirements are all part of compliance. The tyres have to be changed, as the Jap ones aren't ADR approved.

Final ORC? well that would depend entirely on whether it's auto or manual, the year model, the amount of mods, the condition etc. Those two pics i put up were an example of how much the price can vary. (those prices included everything except rego and tyres, as rego can vary state to state and tyre prices depend on what tyres you choose).

Shell :cool:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...