Coil Packs

[fat-lad]

well, the stag is running like a pig, its been getting worse since just after the stagea meet, but now it feels like its about to stall all the time and i rekon its the coil packs, its always had a miss at idle but now the whole steering wheel wobbles at idle,

question is ive been looking at diffrent coils yellow jackets, jjr and splitfires,

i know the split fires are the best of the bunch but we cant really afford splitfires at the moment (dont hate on us for being poor lol)

but what are the better 2 between yellow jackets and jjr coils,

is there any tests i can do, ive had it on a scanner and didnt really show me anything, not sure if there was any simple test i could do,

any help would be awesome people

Edited June 25, 2009 by fat-lad

[kidafa]

Hi mate,

Check the thread about the enigne light coming on on a s2 stag. Some dude in their bought a set or JJR and seems to rate them

[fat-lad]

sweet thanks man ill check it out

[fat-lad]

if i go for jjr do i just get r33 series 2 ones??

[AndyD]

I can only vouch from my experience just fixed my prob last week my prob was the check engine light coming on at start up and then running on 5 cyl i used the guide shown on here to bridge the consult port to get an error code sure enough it came back with the error code for coils bought a set of jjr ones $420 delivered and they work a treat no more prob. My s2 uses r34 type coils as for series 1 i would guess they would be r33 ones but dont qoute me on it. Took me an hour to install them by myself with very limited tools and im a complete noob so its not a hard job im very happy with the quality of jjr coils as are alot of others who bought them as for longevity we will have to see but for the price u can nearly buy 2 sets as a set of spitfires would cost.

Guide to error codes

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...de-t266512.html

[wolverine]

the cheapest option is to silicon your existing coils.

there is a neat DIY thread somewhere on SAU using a spray can of silicon (vs the more ghetto option of high temp silicon tube option which also works)

[OkiM35]

If your on a budget and not running a high power set up, why not just get stock coil packs? They're pretty cheap

[kidafa]

If your on a budget and not running a high power set up, why not just get stock coil packs? They're pretty cheap

Stock coil packs cheap!!!??!! Not new mate

[OkiM35]

Yea probably not new, but used ones are.

[KiwiRS4T]

well, the stag is running like a pig, its been getting worse since just after the stagea meet, but now it feels like its about to stall all the time and i rekon its the coil packs, its always had a miss at idle but now the whole steering wheel wobbles at idle,

question is ive been looking at diffrent coils yellow jackets, jjr and splitfires,

i know the split fires are the best of the bunch but we cant really afford splitfires at the moment (dont hate on us for being poor lol)

but what are the better 2 between yellow jackets and jjr coils,

is there any tests i can do, ive had it on a scanner and didnt really show me anything, not sure if there was any simple test i could do,

any help would be awesome people

If you are poor or even if you aren't there are a lot of things you can do before splashing out on new coil packs. There are probably thousands of posts on this subject (have a search in the skyline section) but here is something you can do: pull out the coil packs and give them a good clean. have a look for obvious signs of arcing. Use one of the suggestions for insulating them. Sometimes the problem is that they have trouble getting enough oomph to jump a 1.1mm gap that has grown bigger. take out your plugs and if they look new give them a clean (carefully if they are not copper) and gap them to 0.8mm. If they look at all dodgy get a set of Copper plugs NGK BCPR6ES and gap them to 0.8mm. (BCPR6ES-8 are already gapped or BCPR6ES -11 are gapped to 1.1 so gap them down). This may fix your problem. If it doesn't it will have been a worthwhile exercise anyway.

[fat-lad]

plugs are new, and gapped to 0.8, and i did silicon up the coils with some spray they use when making big industrial transformers (friend works for a power company), and there were signs that they were arching out, but hey thinking at work today, we got some polyurathane adhesive maybe ill just paint them with that, just to see if it is the coils or not, but they could still be bad inside,

meh, lol

[_Ryan_]

swap with a mate... best test

[RS4StagMan]

I have a spare perfectly good working coilpack set from my Series 2 Stagea. If interested please PM me. Only reason for the change to Splitfires was wanted larger spark energy running on LPG fuel.

Is it a series 1 or 2 that you have?

[fat-lad]

series 1 so they would be diffrent, thanks tho man

[Xmetal]

S2 coilpacks won't work in S1's due to the NEO thingy.

Luke you can also try wrapping the coils in duct tape to insulate them - worked for me.

Failing that, JJR coils work a treat.

[fat-lad]

ian tryed the tape today, didnt work, im now thinking there either dead inside or its another issue, got the codes off it today and its 55 - normal, im started to get real dirty with this stagea now, im gonna pull the injectors off it this week and get them cleaned to see if that cures it. anything else i can try people,

ahhhh also, when i 1st got the car it would stall all the time, i cleaned the throttle body and the aac but found the standard dump valve had a massive air leak so i blocked it off (made a gasket to block it) and thats stopped it stalling, but this miss at idle has always been there since owning the car but its slowly getting worse, could that be an issue? ive also checked for vacum leaks too and couldnt find any.

HELP lol

[OkiM35]

ian tryed the tape today, didnt work, im now thinking there either dead inside or its another issue, got the codes off it today and its 55 - normal, im started to get real dirty with this stagea now, im gonna pull the injectors off it this week and get them cleaned to see if that cures it. anything else i can try people,

ahhhh also, when i 1st got the car it would stall all the time, i cleaned the throttle body and the aac but found the standard dump valve had a massive air leak so i blocked it off (made a gasket to block it) and thats stopped it stalling, but this miss at idle has always been there since owning the car but its slowly getting worse, could that be an issue? ive also checked for vacum leaks too and couldnt find any.

HELP lol

I'm a little confused, are you still trying to see if the coil packs are bad? If so, the quickest way to find out would be start the car and then disconnect one coil pack at a time. If there is no change in engine idle when you disconnect the coil pack, thats your bad one.

Also are these the same coil packs that are on R33 and R32 skylines? If so I should be able to track down a set of used ones for fairly cheap. Anyway let me know.

[KiwiRS4T]

" when i 1st got the car it would stall all the time, i cleaned the throttle body and the aac but found the standard dump valve had a massive air leak so i blocked it off (made a gasket to block it)"

What do you mean by "block it"? Have you rendered the bov totally ineffective? If so try to find another stock bov and give that a try.

[Xmetal]

The stock BOV's have a really piss-poor spring in them and they rely on the vacuum to hold them shut, Luke i've got a Blitz BOV here if you wanted to test it to rule out a faulty factory item.

Seriously if you've got an idle problem it has to be a dead coil.

[wolverine]

The factory BOV's are designed to leak slightly back into the intake hence the small hole on the face. This slight leak reduces the likelihood of mild compressor surge. Something most won't experience with stock turbos on RB25DET's or RB26DETT's.

Blocking the small hole may slightly improve response or increase hp by a few kw's but it is really no big deal either way from my experience but if you get compressor surge (with aftermarket turbo) relieving the hole makes the car much better to drive.

Assuming there is no vacuum leak from the hose holding the diaphragm shut then the factory BOV will outperform most aftermarket units as it costs nothing to leave it alone.