Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My observations only here-but I look at the R34 GT-R on carsales every now and then, and they are too expensive. I do not see them being sold at all, same old cars are still sitting on the website for the last 6months at least.

I also compare the R34 to the M3 E46, and M3's are getting cheaper and cheaper, but R34's prices are now on par with the M3, but when new M3 was 20K more expensive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276588-why-are-r34-gt-r-still-so-expensive/
Share on other sites

when you buy a gtr you will earn my respect :whistling: hahah just kidding.

buy an M3 and sure, i'll still wave - but you'll only ever see it though my rear window :(

on a side note, you could pick up a early model 34 gtr for around 45000 now a days if you shop around.

Edited by KR4-GTR

Another reason is that importing one in decent condition at the moment is still fairly expensive... basic gtr around $50k vspec models starting at like $60k and up. So cars already here can ask for higher price but as you mention they aren't selling because people aren't really buying this type of car at the moment as well as banks are very strict on lending amounts over $40k where as before people were borrowing the full amount and getting it fairly easily.

I recently snapped up a vspec gtr and got it for a significant discount off list price, If you are really interested in a car throw the person a serious offer.

when you buy a gtr you will earn my respect :whistling: hahah just kidding.

buy an M3 and sure, i'll still wave - but you'll only ever see it though my rear window :(

on a side note, you could pick up a early model 34 gtr for around 45000 now a days if you shop around.

true true lol

On your side note to anyone looking at any car but in particular 34 gtr's make sure you get them properly inspected unless you have a fair amount of money to spend repairing them... I looked at dozens of cars and had 2 inspected... one even from a dealer had 12 issues which could of lead to major engine problems the second i bought the car and it was in very good condition very rare in sydney i was told by the workshop but it still had a couple of minor issues which wouldn't have been picked up unless properly looked at.

Not to deter anyone of say cheap gtr's are no good but just be weary.

GTR prices have been dropping, its just that some people here think they are still worth 5-8k more than they realistically are.

Carsales is NOT a good judge of price. It doesn't tell you how long the cars have been listed and you'll find some have probably been here for quite a while with dreamer owners.

You can get them here, landed and complied for under 40k

Q Why are R34 GTRs still so expensive?

A When owners are having so much fun with them, why would they want to sell them?

Q Why aren't R34 GTRs coming down in price now that the R35s are out there?

A It's only when the R35s get further below $100K will they then exert pressure on the R34s

Q Why don't the R34 GTR values drop at the same rate as BMW M3s?

A Demand and supply. Only 11,310 R34 GTRs were ever made which means that these are shared throughout Japan, UK, Thailand, NZ, Indonesia, Australia & Malaysia.

Q Why do M3 values drop so much?

A Not all M3s are owned by enthusiasts. Not all are serviced as they should. Some 'ignorants' want the cache and drive SMGs (& the E46 version of that box were disappointing). A higher %age of R34 GTRs are serviced 'on time - every time'. An E46 CSL M3 however, is a true enthusiast's car and its value is still over $100K

Q You know that R34 GTRs are still holding their value. Otherwise you wouldn't have posted this thread. Had you thought of importing one yourself as in the post above?

Reason:- Not long ago, an SAUer in Vic was offered $68K for his '99 VS II (by another SAUer from WA) and knocked it back. And he's not the only example = I know!

Hmmmm - fair enough. I'd tend to agree, now, that with the last of RB26DETT powered car it may keep its value a bit better, but even that won't help the dreamers.

anyway, lets hope dollar-yen exchange goes in the importers favour a bit and then I'll see.

Cheers everybody.

My observations only here-but I look at the R34 GT-R on carsales every now and then, and they are too expensive. I do not see them being sold at all, same old cars are still sitting on the website for the last 6months at least.

I also compare the R34 to the M3 E46, and M3's are getting cheaper and cheaper, but R34's prices are now on par with the M3, but when new M3 was 20K more expensive.

In June last year the general cost for an R34 GTR in good condition was around 3 Million Yen

Complied and registered you would see the car in your driveway for around $40K for a normal or V Spec and even as low as early $30's if you found a bargain.

Most importers, resellers and even private sellers will still stand on the AUD vs JPY fence stating the exchange fluctuation causes price increases though nearly everyone exploited this and were actually increasing the sale price even if the car was already in the country regardless of what the car was bought at. As the as the Yen is now back at around 80 the price for GTR's is back being what they used to be back in June to buy them in Japan and have them complied and registered.

There have been many come up as little as 2.2 Million Yen and they are not that bad.

R34 GTR's are not as bad as R32 and R33 GTR's though.

The usual cost for an R32 GTR is between 300,000Y and 500,000 Yen and can be in your driveway for around $11-12, They are a 20+ YO car and condition really only comes down to the paintwork now which for the real cost means nothing as a respray and reupholster will still be cheaper than the majority of GTR's for sale.

Engine condition is not important these days as its a GTR and will end up spinning a bearing. :)

IMO anything over $15k for a relatively stock GTR is rude.

R33 GTR's the general cost is around 500,000Y to 800,000Y and can be in your driveway for around $13-16K

The difference in prices usually takes into account exhausts, wheels, and other usual upgrades even turbo's that may be on the car.

There are R34 GTR's being sold for $45,000 which is fairly reasonable if you are looking to import now.

With R32 and R33 GTR's this is definately another story with them having up to $10-25K added for no reason. This should make people definitely consider the use of a broker and if you are not, you should be.

The general populace of car owners have taken out finance, have bought a car locally at the seller inflated price and like any human being doesnt want to lose much on the sale.

Bank balance is what keeps the prices of cars high in Australia, not supply and demand, not the exchange rate (the 8 month window from July last year excluded) and not the "value" of the car.

My 2 cents.

a guy at work and i were talking about this the other day... what car could you buy now for 10-15g... that in 30 years time will be worth a heap like the gtho falcons.

ae86's, a few years ago, could be imported and your driveway for $3000.

you could pick up a 240z for under $5000

r31 coupes for $5000

these have all hit rock bottom... and have been snapped up, crashed, molested, and shagged in general.. which is now forcing the price up as they become rarer and harder to find in good nick.. ive seen a few 240z's go for over $25000 a few days ago.. and ive seen some ae86's for over $15000.

the r34 gtr i dont think will ever drop below $40000, r32s have started to rise, and r33s will when the r32s become more expensive.. they dont make the gtr like that anymore so they are a limited run.. the more idiots that get a hold of them and crash them or molest them with stupid bodykits and paint will only force the price higher and higher.. noone will want to buy something that has been touched so those cars will be sold cheap and crashed by some young hoon no doubt.

  • Like 1

If you think that R34's are high, look at the S15's in comparison. 10 years old now and they still command more than 50% or their original value. Now that's a car worth keeping if you dont like Commodore-type depreciations. Like the RB26. that SR20DET in S15's are the last of it's kind. Add to that they're one of the most popular drift cars in Japan and you will see that prices will stay up there along with R34 GT-R's.

On a different perspective, these cars were not built on limited numbers (besides your Nur's, N1's and Nismo based variants). There's still a lot of them around and I have no doubt that prices will fall over time. How low will it go, who knows. There's so many factors that will determine their value in the future. The R35 will surely be a detrimental factor in end price of an R34 GT-R, especially that this new model are sold on a global scale and will surely eclipse the volume production of their predecessor.

The R35 will surely be a detrimental factor in end price of an R34 GT-R, especially that this new model are sold on a global scale and will surely eclipse the volume production of their predecessor.

i dont think the r35 will have much effect on the price of the rb26 gtr's as its a completly different kettle of fish.. its the start of a new run of gtr's.. given the choice, i would have an rb powered gtr or an original hakosuka over the r35, as good of a performance car as it is. i dont think im the only one to have a love for the rb26dett that is not easily swayed.

Q You know that R34 GTRs are still holding their value. Otherwise you wouldn't have posted this thread. Had you thought of importing one yourself as in the post above?

Reason:- Not long ago, an SAUer in Vic was offered $68K for his '99 VS II (by another SAUer from WA) and knocked it back. And he's not the only example = I know!

what the hell man... got any pics or a link to the convo??

Hmmmm - fair enough. I'd tend to agree, now, that with the last of RB26DETT powered car it may keep its value a bit better, but even that won't help the dreamers.

anyway, lets hope dollar-yen exchange goes in the importers favour a bit and then I'll see.

Cheers everybody.

Or you could just admit you can't afford one and just deal with it!

I want an R35 but don't come on here saying they are too expensive because I don't have $155,800 sitting around. It is really annoying when people complain about prices of various cars that they want...

"I want an skyline with the turbo thingy and i have $900 govt grant that I saved, why are they all so expensive?"...

Please read a basic economics text book.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
    • Every one has seemed to of have missed . . . . . . . The Mazda Cosmo . . . . . . what a MACHINE ! !
×
×
  • Create New...