Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You will need to get the rear diff out o the GTS4 skyline Na which came with the 4.4 ratios or otherwise out of the auto stagea they came with the 4.34 etc close to 4.4 thats where i got mine from, then also the gears for the front as well to suit.You will then want to get a mechanical LSD as they are not so it will become an exspensive procedure in the end between buying parts ,getting mechanical lsd, labour to do all work.

The best place that i have used and also know of alot of that alot of mechanics and enthusiast use is Award diff & gearbox 96246600 give them a call they are located in Sydney area.

Hope this helps.

cheers,

Dave

Easiest way to get the front ratio is to bolt the whole sump on (either gts4 or stagea depending which ratio you want) they are all the same.

In the rear you get the housing from the new ratio, and put back in the gtr centre and align it all up.

Like Dave I used Award for my rear diff, they did a great job

You will need to get the rear diff out o the GTS4 skyline Na which came with the 4.4 ratios or otherwise out of the auto stagea they came with the 4.34 etc
The autos come with 4.08:1 (well, that's the gearing that came with the Stagea engine I dropped into my R32 GTS4). R32 GTS4 is 4.375:1

It's probably simpler with the front diff, to just replace the diff itself, rather than the whole sump. And I found that the rear diff is a slightly different shape, so I swapped the internals into the existing diff casing.

  • 1 month later...

no, they are all 4.375:1 people call it 4.4 as that is rounded off.

the ones you want are the manual R32 GTS4 diffs which are 35:8 ratio. you must get front and rear and make sure you get all the bits, crown wheels, pinions, the whole shebang. as duncan said to be sure best of getting the whole rear end and front sump. then swap the bits onto your GTR. be aware that doing the front one means engine out as getting the sump off when engine in is pretty much impossible as far as I can see.

front LSD is a good idea while you are there. and also make sure you put the rear gears onto your GTR centre as the rear GTR diff is mech LSD, rear GST4 diff is NOT so you want the new gears onto your current GTR centre.

they are hard to find though! and people who know what they have will charge you an arm and a leg for a complete pair.

yeah $1000 for a pair seems to be about the going rate. I wouldn't pay any more than that though as I can get some brand new from japan for not much more. and they are brand spanking new.

front and rear for $500 if they are complete is a good deal and is about what they used to be a few years ago before everyone started jumping on the wagon. :blush:

  • 4 weeks later...
no, they are all 4.375:1 people call it 4.4 as that is rounded off.

the ones you want are the manual R32 GTS4 diffs which are 35:8 ratio. you must get front and rear and make sure you get all the bits, crown wheels, pinions, the whole shebang. as duncan said to be sure best of getting the whole rear end and front sump. then swap the bits onto your GTR. be aware that doing the front one means engine out as getting the sump off when engine in is pretty much impossible as far as I can see.

front LSD is a good idea while you are there. and also make sure you put the rear gears onto your GTR centre as the rear GTR diff is mech LSD, rear GST4 diff is NOT so you want the new gears onto your current GTR centre.

they are hard to find though! and people who know what they have will charge you an arm and a leg for a complete pair.

no, they are all 4.375:1 people call it 4.4 as that is rounded off.

the ones you want are the manual R32 GTS4 diffs which are 35:8 ratio. you must get front and rear and make sure you get all the bits, crown wheels, pinions, the whole shebang. as duncan said to be sure best of getting the whole rear end and front sump. then swap the bits onto your GTR. be aware that doing the front one means engine out as getting the sump off when engine in is pretty much impossible as far as I can see.

front LSD is a good idea while you are there. and also make sure you put the rear gears onto your GTR centre as the rear GTR diff is mech LSD, rear GST4 diff is NOT so you want the new gears onto your current GTR centre.

they are hard to find though! and people who know what they have will charge you an arm and a leg for a complete pair.

Hi i have an r32 gtr and have to replace the front diff i can get a diff but its advertised as an r33 gtr 4.11:1 and my diff is 4.1:1,is it the same or has the guy stuffed up the transaxle code?? i cant seem to find any info at all,just need to no if that diff will go in without changeing the rear etc...Thanks

There are optioned gts4's out there as well I guess.. Punched my vin into fast, auto, turbo, pearl black, and 4.375:1 finals.. (from memory, it was quite a while ago but diff ratio is definitely correct still.)

Edited by heller44
  • 8 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

[email=http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/news_list/2010/news_flash/100004.html]http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/news_list/2010/news_flash/100004.html[/email] Nissan Diff Ratios [quote name='SRB' date='20 Aug 2009, 05:21 PM' post='4778739']

ok, so manual turbo gts4 is 4.375 but manual is 4.4??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Don't do it if your gearbox box has already having syncro issues. The short hifter will put a greater load on them. If you must I remember Nismo did a shorter shifter, with the top part being physically shorter and the part that went into the gearbox was the same as stock. In saying that I've had a C's short shifter (I think) in mine for many years, which was given to me as the previous owner was not sympathetic to the gearbox. Thus forwarned I was careful and had to modify my normal changing style. You have to be super accurate with your clutch and shifts
    • Well, after a week of daily driving and having to crawl out between the wheel and the side intrusion bars. I got myself a quick release setup. I went with an NRG short hub and Quick Release with some cute heart cutouts on the pull tabs. Nice and matchy matchy with the rest of the interior accents I have going on.  The only downside is the total stack height even with the short adapter is longer than the old HKB boss kit. Luckily I had some adjustment left on the column so move the wheel away.
    • stock shifter with new bushes, springs and cup will improve it. Gktech do all the bits. The opinion as the years have gone on is the redline is not great in old gearboxes.
    • Hi all   what short shifter do you use on your skykine r34?   my synchronous does have a problem and i was getting huge delay and grinding sound between 2nd and 3rd, did put shockproof red heavy stuff and it is great now/ no issues   would in your view short shifter screw this up?   people seems to suggest/ use cube short shifter and there is standard and premium. Seen review of premium as much better and less play. Thoughts?
    • Yeah, there's a bit of a density and friability difference between pebbles and any of those other things. Silicone will definitely float in oil and so will be mobile enough to move around. Although, again, if it is upstream of the filter it really shouldn't go any further. I would only ever worry about silicone when it is in places downstream of the filter. Upstream of the pickup is a whole 'nother matter. We've all seen what that does. I have seen the most abominable crap settled out in industrial gearboxes, trunnion lube systems and the like, without any sign that any of it has touched anything in the machine. Just chilling in the bottom, waiting for the inevitable operator error that causes the whole machine to need to be dismantled for repairs.
×
×
  • Create New...