Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I bought a "complete rb26 head" that didn't have the cam caps for it. I didn't realise it didn't as the cam covers were all on, so didn't worry. A week later, i pulled the covers off and noticed no cams caps!! I asked the bloke about it but he pretty much just fobbed me offand couldn't get a refund, so i'm left with a lump of expensive ally pretty much.

I was wondering however, if you can use rb20 or 25 or even custom caps(if anyone makes them).

I'm not too sure about all this. I guess i probably could, but it would need to be line bored.

Is this correct??

Any sugestions??

Anyone have any spare caps??

Thanks guys

Hey guys, I bought a "complete rb26 head" that didn't have the cam caps for it. I didn't realise it didn't as the cam covers were all on, so didn't worry. A week later, i pulled the covers off and noticed no cams caps!! I asked the bloke about it but he pretty much just fobbed me offand couldn't get a refund, so i'm left with a lump of expensive ally pretty much.

I was wondering however, if you can use rb20 or 25 or even custom caps(if anyone makes them).

I'm not too sure about all this. I guess i probably could, but it would need to be line bored.

Is this correct??

Any sugestions??

Anyone have any spare caps??

Thanks guys

i may have a full set of cam caps and bolts...ill check tomm. pm me an offer for the full set...do you need the baffle caps as well?

You can use caps off any RB head but you will need to have the cam tunnels bored once you fit them. The caps are not interchangeable unless you do this, they are bored as an assembly at the factory and a set of caps will only work properly on the head they came on on unless the tunnels are remachined.

i may have a full set of cam caps and bolts...ill check tomm. pm me an offer for the full set...do you need the baffle caps as well?

surely being an engine builder you know it's not that simple to do it properly.....

Edited by URAS
  • 5 years later...

You can use caps off any RB head but you will need to have the cam tunnels bored once you fit them. The caps are not interchangeable unless you do this, they are bored as an assembly at the factory and a set of caps will only work properly on the head they came on on unless the tunnels are remachined.

Sorry to revive a thread but I am in almost the exact situation as op. Is this above statement true?

Yes i agree. We call it line boring over here. Wit an old rb in the pass i used some gapping tape to make sure it wasnt tight. And i took one from an old head. Still working to this day. But that was a old nissan laurel. Still running today. But if your going to be racing/ beating the motor it will need to be line bored. Same goes for main caps. If one was missing. Nissan is ok with there clearances from factory. Still good practice to do it the right way.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To be fair passengers who aren't silly and have been in proper fast cars have often been pretty impressed once you hit 4th gear   
    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
×
×
  • Create New...