Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i have a r32 drift car 4 door im setting it up for track but its a slow process due to funds....

but i have got it to a driftable level now i need to add a cage.... bolt on or weld in?

is a bolt on cage CAMS acredited? im thinking not... im looking to compete in hill climbs and events such as the targa rally...

any info would be apreciated.... oh and abs? is it a no no?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276856-r32-cage-help/
Share on other sites

Bolt in cages can be cams approved. What are you going to log book the car as??

Prod car id be guessing unless cams now has a drift car category??

Bonds roll bars do a bolt in or weld in kit. You cant go past them for price but be sure to have it extended to suit your intended category.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276856-r32-cage-help/#findComment-4684266
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guess I can rule out the battery, probably even the starter and alternator (maybe) as well. I'm gonna clean those leads and see what happens if it's still shit I might take it to an auto electrician. Unless the immobiliser is that f**king heavy, but it shouldn't be.  If I start the car every day, starts up perfectly never an issue.
    • Anything above ~9.5V is acceptable. The higher the better, but it will almost always drop to at least 10.5V, if not lower, even with a new big battery and everything else being good. 9.76 is not a concern. If it goes below 9, you'd be sure that there's a problem with either the battery or the connections.
    • It's new almost. Under a year old i think and I've tested it twice at supercheap
    • Glue the head from a Pez dispenser on it. Goofy, or Winnie the Pooh, so something.
    • Adjusting the idle screw is usually (emphasis on usually) just covering up deeper issues. Stuff like the cold start valve not closing properly. Throttle shaft seals on the way out. Coolant temp sensors getting out of spec. Coolant temp sensors especially can be a bear to diagnose because they can fail subtly. My dad just spent weeks chasing down his high idle. He cleaned the coolant temp sensor and everything but the resistance curve just drifts over time and if it's been 20+ years they also get super slow to respond as well. Has a massive effect on fuel economy as if it's off the ECU is going to run richer and command high idle for far longer than it should otherwise.
×
×
  • Create New...