Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i have a r32 drift car 4 door im setting it up for track but its a slow process due to funds....

but i have got it to a driftable level now i need to add a cage.... bolt on or weld in?

is a bolt on cage CAMS acredited? im thinking not... im looking to compete in hill climbs and events such as the targa rally...

any info would be apreciated.... oh and abs? is it a no no?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276856-r32-cage-help/
Share on other sites

Bolt in cages can be cams approved. What are you going to log book the car as??

Prod car id be guessing unless cams now has a drift car category??

Bonds roll bars do a bolt in or weld in kit. You cant go past them for price but be sure to have it extended to suit your intended category.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276856-r32-cage-help/#findComment-4684266
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gucci bags tend to hold their value well, so someone’s definitely going to get a nice find here.
    • @Ozdavroz Not going to get a better deal than that. Cash up front and ongoing payments. 🤑
    • I wouldn't even move it like gTSBoy is saying. I'd seriously do what Duncan is saying. Unplug the injectors, and unplug the fuel pump.  Pull the spark plugs out. Have a look in quickly with a bore scope if you want. At most, you can't spray a bit of oil into the bores so there is lubricant in there while you crank it. (Don't fill it, as it's only going to enter the exhaust, or spit at you out the spark plugs holes. Before cranking the engine on the starter, after a 5 year sit I'd probably prime the oil system manually. Easiest way to do so is to look at buying an oil filter relocation block, fit it to the engine. The pressure line going into the engine on this block you can then shove into some sort of oil pump, or put it into a bottle, with that hose going to the bottom. Fill bottle up with oil. Now seal the bottle and add a compressed air line to the top of the bottle. Feed compressed air in, about 20psi will be PLENTY. This will pump oil through the motor. Be aware, it also means it will drain back to the sump, so make sure you don't end up over filling the motor Now bolt the old oil setup back on (or fully install the remote filter system).   This way you've at least pushed fresh oil everywhere, then you're letting the motor crank to then do its own oiling. Then I'd tap the key to make sure it can start to crank, if the motor free bumps, then I'd just hit the key and let it crank. After letting it crank and seeing you can get real engine oil pressure, put new spark plugs in, reconnect the fuel system electrics, and send it.   Additionally, you can look to remove the fuel feed line to the rail, and divert it to a tank so you can get the bottom of the tank shit out, and just incase there's some crud sitting anywhere that gets passed the fuel filter (or is already ahead of it).   If fuel injection at the injectors ends up appearing to be a problem, you can dump the injectors into an ultrasonic cleaner for a quick flush clean out. Note this isn't as good as new injectors, or getting them pro cleaned and flowed    
    • All I can say is, that's still bloody awesome! No plans on caging it I'm guessing?
    • It seems you'd like your Skyline to go to a great home, that can keep it as a beautiful museum piece.  I feel I can provide the perfect place for it, however, I'm not sure I can justify so much money for a Skyline that has only been crashed 3 times. Due to this and market prices, would you be against me buying it for $100.00, with $60 to be paid upfront, and the remaining $40 to be paid annually in equal payments?  
×
×
  • Create New...