Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just bought some guages from Justjap (autoguage stepper motor series) namely boost, oil pressure and water temp. The oil pressure one comes with a sandwitch plate or whatever its called which I believe is supposed to be mounted under the oil filter.

Question .. how do I take the oil filter without spilling half a litre of oil ? (just recently changed it ..motul 300v) Is it even safe/possible to take the oild filter without draining the engine first completely ? Will engine leak oil with the filter off or does the oil sit somewhere lower with engine off ?

Also .. what's the best route of getting the sensor cables to my cabin (dash) ?? Through the firewall somewhere ??

I've got a harness from my old factory satnav still on the dash and I'm sure I can get 12v from there for all the power connections but I need to get all the sensor cables back to the cabin first .. Called CRD and they quoted 3-5 hours labour x $120 ph YIKES!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276940-installing-aftermarket-guages/
Share on other sites

shouldn't lose to much oil, just whats in the filter itself. having not worked out 34 can't say about getting cables through but there should be a hole in the firewall somewhere, just put a rubber grommet in there so it doesn't cut the wires.

thanks mate yeah I dont know what I was thinking ..just spoke to Yavuz at Unigroup and he seems to be happy to do it for me and I'm sure he won't charge me anywhere near what CRD were asking. So I'll just take it there and pay tha man! ..and not worry about oil spills in the garage :P

A shitload of oil will fall out, dont even bother without draining the oil first.

I know this because I forgot to unscrew the oil cap before I removed the filter big mistake because all the oil didnt drain and it went all over the side of the engine.

Just wait awhile or drain the oil in a clean pan and refill it.

Check out the Justjap 'stepper motor' series .. cheapish at around $100 per guage and look great. They're really good quality too even the packaging is impressive heh.

I'm not sure what Yavuz is gonna charge me but as I said I'm sure it's less than CRD .. sure as hell not $120ph x 3-5 hours. Unigroup are the only shop I've used so far that don't charge like a wounded bull. The only reason I even thought of CRD is because they did my EBC (before I knew about Unigroup) and I thought this would be a 1 hour job max..didn't wanna bother yavuz with that sort of nonsense :D

$120 p/hour is a joke, and 3-5 hours? Considering they want that much per hour you'd expect they'd know what they're doing, and do it in much less time! Glad I'm doing this myself. Although I reckon it'll take me several hours, only cost will be a slab for me and mate to go through whilst we work out how to go about it :D

hehe yeah I'd be doing this myself most likely at my parents place if I hadn't already occupied their house last week for 3 days when I was doing the seat covers ... don't wanna find one day they pretend they're not home when I come to work on the car :D

haha fair enough ;)

are those Autoguage stepper motor series gauges the same as on this site ?

they look pretty nice in the vid if they are.

http://www.ozegauge.com.au/index.php?id=47

Is the edging/rim on the gauge different to those non-stepper motor series Autogauge gauges on JustJap site?

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/ < don't mind the look of some of them on there (seen on ebay for about $80 per gauge)

too many options :D

edit: the edging on the stepper motor ones does looks nicer (not as thick on as the other ones)

Edited by peterw
haha fair enough :D

are those Autoguage stepper motor series gauges the same as on this site ?

they look pretty nice in the vid if they are.

http://www.ozegauge.com.au/index.php?id=47

Is the edging/rim on the gauge different to those non-stepper motor series Autogauge gauges on JustJap site?

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/ < don't mind the look of some of them on there (seen on ebay for about $80 per gauge)

too many options :D

No idea I just know the stepper motor series are electric ie. better and less fuss ... but the justjap stepper motor ones are WHITE when they light up. I want those blue ones like at the url above !!! DAMN YOU!!! Whyd you have to show me these now ;)

thats ok I had no idea that there were white/amber and blue/amber options .. if I knew I woulda gotten the blue as the rest of my interior is all blue leds :D

Gonna call justjap tommorow and see if they stock the ones with the blue leds and hopefully they let me exchange .. but I'm sure they only have these white/amber ones and now I'm gonna have to sell them aghhhh ..

hehe my fault for not doing any research beforehand :D Not gonna frett about it .. might lose $100 or so due to my own fault but so be it, as long as I can find ones with the blue backlight I'd be happy

hey mate,

i dunno why you would pay anyone anything for this job, its simple.

Run the wires through the same way you wud run a power wire for your amp, if your not sure on this root in a r34 look in the car audio section of these forums and there is a guide.

The way is through the top corner of the drivers footwell, then you remove the wheel inner gaurd(or just the rear part) and it will follow through to the engine bay.

With the gauges they will all have fittings/adaptors which the gauge box, should have instructions on where they should be fitted.

in answer to your question re the oil filter, i would play it safe and drain all the oil into a clean container, and re fill it or even add another oil change in with the huge amount of money your saving by d.i.y !

Im honestly not sure how you would consider paying 300-600 :D for a job that should take an absolute noob like myself an afternoon at the most.

also another option, if you are not confident on running the wires, through.

you could take the car just to the local mechanic(this isnt a hard job and any regular mechanic will suffice) which usually will charge around 70dollar ph labour and would charge you an hour or two at max !!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've done a few BMS systems. Code in Canada use to force us to have any safety components outside of the PLC but with a code change back in 2018 I believe it was, we can now use safety PLC's to control everything. Sadly to your point, AB Guardlogix safety instructions for example are only available in ladder.  Machine safety is a very big thing here though, you're constantly forced to migrate to the next best thing by OSHA. I honestly prefer safety plc's, including anything from AB more then I do working with old school safety monitoring relays. PLC is only one portion of it, the rest of the electrical still has to follow to meet SIL (Mechanically linked dual contacts, bla bla)  Now tell me how to feel about safety over comm's (e.g Ethernet/IP CIP) on a unmaintained network haha
    • To your point, boolean logic. We're not only working with bools in ecu's, so it's very limiting. I wanted to setup a low WMI pressure alarm. After 1 second I want WMI line to hit 100PSI, 2 seconds 175PSI, etc. and trigger an alarm if it doesn't meet those thresholds. This would of taken me one very short line of text, but instead I had to bugger around with generic timers, conditions, etc. and so forth.
    • I much prefer that to an actual oil pressure issue, never would of thought it would of been a volt drop issue but SAU brains win again. Guess ill be turning down the oil pressure limit for the track and hunting some grounds. Ill hopefully update this thread with some high oil pressure and solid ecu voltage logs. 
    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
×
×
  • Create New...