Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the v35 are designed to have a staggered wheel setup. You can put the same tyres front and back at least 245/40/18 (i think, correct me if i'm wrong please) in order to get the closest Speedo reading. If you decided not to go to the stock spec it'll put your Speedo reading off by alot of margins.

the stock for 17" tyres on V35 is 225/50 17 and 235/50 17.

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

it's 225/45 18 and 245/45/18

I'm not sure what are you talking about being the front sitting little lower.

if you referring the 225 that's not the thickness of the tyres it's the width of the tyres. 50 is the thickness of the tyres.

hmm i have 20inch 255/35 on rear, and 225/45 on front...guess the 20inch would really through out the speedo.....

The tyre shop that fitted 225/45 on your 20s should be shot. do a search and look for a tyre calculator.

why does front and rear tire size for V35 coupe is different

For more rear end grip.

( is it stock standard)

Yes.

is it ok if I have 225/45/18 front and back ? ?

Your speedo will over-read more than it does already.

Your ABS may (but probably won't) trigger prematurely.

Your VDC may trigger prematurely.

is it for the purpose of aerodynamic that front is sitting little lower than rear?

Possibly, but probably not. The undertrays will have more of an effect on aerodynamics than the slightly raked profile.

Also, what's to say that the rest of the suspension isn't configured expecting the front tyre to have a smaller diameter than the rear, and is relatively higher on the body to compensate?

if you referring the 225 that's not the thickness of the tyres it's the width of the tyres. 50 is the thickness of the tyres.

The front tyre has a slightly smaller diameter than the rear, so assuming that the rest of the suspension mounts are the same the front would arguably sit lower. However, to keep the chassis level I find it unlikely that Nissan would have done that.

hmm i have 20inch 255/35 on rear, and 225/45 on front...guess the 20inch would really through out the speedo.....

Your speedo isn't that inaccurate. With your profile drop and relatively narrow width, your speedo only under-reads by 1.3% compared to stock (which over-reads a bit anyway).

The tyre shop that fitted 225/45 on your 20s should be shot. do a search and look for a tyre calculator.

f**k yeah. That width and profile is stock on an 18" rim - its way too high for a 20.

wow... what a heap to re-read and take in.

Just a couple of things that I didn't really see clearly stated;

Can everyone pls also remember the rolling diameter for one brand tyre in ANY size may differ from the same size in another brand.

The below information was posted and there was lots of good tyre calculators linked, however I just want to re-iterate it...

Tyre sizes work in this way 245/45/18 = Profile is 45% of the 245mm width/rim size is 18 inch/width is 245mm.

I always work out the specifics of the rolling diameter using the actual tyre size AND the Manufacturer Rolling Diameter info.

  • 2 weeks later...
what if I have stock 17" stock rims on and I changed to stock 18" rims. would the speedo overread?

Your speedo will not be out just because you go to bigger rims. What you need to make sure is you have the correct profile tires when moving to bigger wheels to keep the overall diameter same/similar. Thats what the tire calculator is for. Do a search.

OMG I NEED HELP.

I just got my V35 and drvoveinto driveway. I found out the mid-bottom scrape the driveway...

it is pain everytime goin in and out.

the driveway is like a dip. has a crest in the middle and thats where the scraping occur.

can I change the size of the tires(thickness ) so that i can rise the car i little. i think i need half inch only.

what would be a good size if i do it?

current on stock 18" , tires 225/45/18 front and back

Edited by tonich

To raise your car using tyre profiles alone by 1/2 an inch is going to be a HUGE change in rolling diameter. Extra sidewall height will make handling fairly wooly. Plus the fact your car will end up looking like a 4WD. Sunraysias anyone?

Time to move house ;) .

Can you approach the crest at an angle? That will normally help a bit.

I had the same problem as I have quite a steep driveway going down to the garage from the street. I nailed two planks of wood to the driveway to give me some more clearance and problem solved . Don't know if this would work in your situation.

Edited by Easy Tiger

cant do it at an angle, the the driveway is too narrow.

I will try the planks of wood. but I have to place the wood everytime go in and out. gonna to real hassle

I am not sure about 19" stock rims with stock tires. does it increase clearance compare to stock 18". i might be able to get a set

Edited by tonich

please confirm with me on this:

i have used calculator to compare current set up 225/45/18 to new tires 245/45/18.

the diameter of wheel increased from 26 in to 26.7 inch. does it means it will increase my clearance by 0.7inch/ 1.8cm?

if so what brand of tires should i get

or can i rise the height with this coilover.

link'

thanks for help

Edited by tonich

You are stuck between a rock and a hard driveway. There is nothing much you can do to the car without altering its handling characteristics or making it look stupid. Increasing tire profile to suit is not recommended. If you are currently on lowered springs, then I guess reverting back to stock suspension is one way to do it. Other than that, you will need to find a way to modify your driveway as recommended above.

I came across a similar driveway when house hunting a few months back, neither of my V's could get into it without scraping the bottom. Needless to say I passed.

Perhaps post a pic of the said driveway as well..and also do you own or rent this place?

You are stuck between a rock and a hard driveway. There is nothing much you can do to the car without altering its handling characteristics or making it look stupid. Increasing tire profile to suit is not recommended. If you are currently on lowered springs, then I guess reverting back to stock suspension is one way to do it. Other than that, you will need to find a way to modify your driveway as recommended above.

I came across a similar driveway when house hunting a few months back, neither of my V's could get into it without scraping the bottom. Needless to say I passed.

Perhaps post a pic of the said driveway as well..and also do you own or rent this place?

i own a unit and i guess i shouldn't a car this size living in a unit. i now hunting for a garage near my place....

any suggestion on increasing the height with coilover? i dont mind if it looks stupid

Yes, You can go. I have coilovers sitting too low, I found the same problem with my driveway. So I increase it by 1 inch. no problem after. LOL, do looks not as good as it used to be, but as long as it do not strape my chasis.

Cheers

Yes, You can go. I have coilovers sitting too low, I found the same problem with my driveway. So I increase it by 1 inch. no problem after. LOL, do looks not as good as it used to be, but as long as it do not strape my chasis.

Cheers

any pictures my friend? how much it cost and brand?

any pictures my friend? how much it cost and brand?

Sorry mate, no pic so far, I was on work.

Brand is BC racing, F 8kg R 6kg, I set it to the softest. not to much different with factory on comfort but do corner a bit better.

Price is not bad. Send me PM for details. I don't want put here as not sure whether it is proper.

Frank

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you tried another indicator stalk? Sometimes these go bad and cause issues.
    • They're so beautiful 馃槏
    • Early last week, I became concerned that the car was feeling....slow. Most of my driving is commuting to/from work and there are few opportunities to get up it and convincingly make boost/power. It drives in vacuum almost all the time. But when you do occasionally get an opportunity, and.... it takes a little longer to start making power, and then there's not as much as you'd expect, and then you run out of road anyway and have to bottle out - it can be hard to be convinced that there's something wrong. But by the end of the week I was pretty convinced. Made an effort to get a decent test run. Took bloody forever to come up on boost and when it did it would only make about 50 kPa of pressure. There was no black smoke, no noise of a boost or exhaust leak, no evidence anywhere of an intercooler hose clamp being sloppy enough to let air escape. So.... not that sort of problem. Brainstorming led to thinking that the boost controller's solenoid might have failed in some way. No active boost control would just give wastegate pressure, which I was more or less getting, and the laggy behaviour could just be "normal" shitty boost response from an uncontrolled highflow. But a little extra 3rd party brainstorming led to the thought that the actuator circlip might have jumped off leaving me with a bluetooth wastegate. So, on Friday, off comes the stock heatshield (which is an annoying enough job on its own) to reveal - yup. WG is wide open. And.... it won't come back. It is jammed in the dump. Put the rod back on with a new circlip and tried driving it to get it hot in the hope that the capture was from thermal effects having been blown into the dump when hot and since cooled. Nope. Won't move, even with screwdriver mediated force when hot. Ran out of time to play. Came back to it yesterday. Unbolted the dump. Was lying under it with the dump jammed up against my guts undoing the bottom 2 bolts. Got them most of the way out and gave the dump a serious heave. It didn't noticeably move, but there was a satisfying "plink" noise from up to. Shuffle out and sure enough, gate is now closed. Nevermind that there was still the better part of an hour after that required to put it all back together. f**ken cars.
    • For your application, where you'll be at that 1/2" size or perhaps larger, yeah, excellent. Although not if you need a tight bending radius anywhere, because the corrugated stuff is not anywhere near as flexible as rubber/teflon cored stuff. But for turbo oil lines? No. Too big. They just don't do the corro stuff down at the ~1/4" ID size that you'd want, and if they did the OD of it would probably be a bit too fat for fitting it into the tight spaces available. I use hoses like that all the time for fuel gases (LPG, NG) and liquid fuels (HFO, diesels, waste oils). When we did the London Olympic cauldron, with the 204 individual burners on it, we had miles of the stuff (although a lot of that was teflon core). A bunch of that crap is still cluttering up the workshop, more than 12 years later!
    • Would something like this be an option  https://processhose.com/products/configurable-metal-hoses/1-2-in-t316-stainless-steel-annular-corrugated-configurable-flexible-metal-hose-assembly-with-ends-t304-single-braid-masterflex-af5550.html I'm looking at this for replacing the OEM EGR when installing a aftermarket intake plenum 
  • Create New...