Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

for the simple fact you are only having it for a year or so, i'd go a civic, sure the 180 could potentially look better or go faster, but it's more likely to break down, i wouldn't want to spend any money on a car i was planning to get rid off.

for the simple fact you are only having it for a year or so, i'd go a civic, sure the 180 could potentially look better or go faster, but it's more likely to break down, i wouldn't want to spend any money on a car i was planning to get rid off.

One thing i'd be looking at, is jumping in a 308 powered LJ Torana (despite what some people on this forum think, LJ torana's are very light. lighter than 180SX infact) which would have quite the power-to-weight ratio from a FWD civic? If you get the 180SX, as least you'll know what a somewhat powerful RWD car feels like - which means you don't have to go home and tell daddy you wrapped the LJ around a pole.

Yes, I'd own a 180SX over a 308 LJ anyday, but that's not the point. I know what I'd be doing..

other thing you have to remember is that the LJ torana is still going to handle like a 30 year old car no matter whan you do, LOL.

even though this thread is a month old i will still post up cause i'm bored.

so you can visiually modify a civic for 6k, and are bodykits for 180sx's that much more expensive? i don't think so. with your 6k you could get a full kit, some wheels and the a full exhaust, fmic and boost controller

Nothing against the 308 LJ but they are a shocking handling thing. You sit behind the wheel and the steering wheel is off centre. Factor in the cost and effort to get a 308 in there - not really worthwhile considering an LH or LX came with 308 standard and arent really that much heavier than the 308 LJ. Sure they may have been a good handler with a light 202 and Brockie behind the wheel. But with a 308- Lead tipped arrow ?

yeah i dont no which 180, just some 180, can someone tell me the new laws and what states they apply in?

My understanding is with the exception of WA & NT, all other states in Australia have car restrictions for P platers. Ie its either you are banned from driving most turbo or V8 or its the power to weight ratio thing.

6-7 K can get you a good condition b16a powered EG hatch

or a rough body b18c (not type r) powered EG

alot turbo boys seem to like dissing the ftw hondas but u should be carefull these little pocket rockets can be quick..

my first car was a civic then i bought a gtr but i didnt keep it for long

end of the day if you want to save money for your next car and have a decent looking car with decent power

id say civic

here some run down facts

B16a (jdm spec) 170hp

B18c (jdm spec) 180hp

B18cR 200hp

type r is a light car just over 1 tonne

civic would be around 950 kg.

it's got some good power to weight ratio for some fun.

a lot of turbo boys seem to like dissing any fwd car, LOL

i will pay the civics their dues, yes they can be quick. where they falter is in their small motor. it is the same with any small 4 cylinder motor. you have to ring it's neck to go quick. the missus has a n15 SSS pulsar and i would really recommend them to anyone looking for a small car in NA form. out of a slow corner (low rpm) they will pull harder than a turbo sr20 until about 5000rpm when the turbo will start to keep up and claw back some of the ground it has lost. sure they torque steer a bit (more than some other fwd cars) but they are still great to drive. i'm still trying to convince the missus to let me bolt a turbo on for that little bit extra go though. the torque of the NA plus a turbo at about 5psi and i reakon it would be tops. 5psi would be enough to just make it that little bit happier.

6-7 K can get you a good condition b16a powered EG hatch

or a rough body b18c (not type r) powered EG

alot turbo boys seem to like dissing the ftw hondas but u should be carefull these little pocket rockets can be quick..

my first car was a civic then i bought a gtr but i didnt keep it for long

end of the day if you want to save money for your next car and have a decent looking car with decent power

id say civic

here some run down facts

B16a (jdm spec) 170hp

B18c (jdm spec) 180hp

B18cR 200hp

type r is a light car just over 1 tonne

civic would be around 950 kg.

it's got some good power to weight ratio for some fun.

B16a 160HP

B16a2 170HP :down:

yeah i dont no which 180, just some 180, can someone tell me the new laws and what states they apply in?

in adelaide you can drive any car you like on your P's...one of the perks of living in adelaide :thumbsup:

in adelaide you can drive any car you like on your P's...one of the perks of living in adelaide ;)

It must be the only thing it has going for it, since regular people don't seem to like the place.

If you're only going to own a car for a year, get the cheapest one you can with the best resale. It's a placeholder, so the less you spend on it the more you can spend on the car you actually want.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
    • Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) :p
×
×
  • Create New...