Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Again, why would you upgrade the diff BEFORE the new turbo goes in??

Why fix it if it ain't broke and will do the job perfectly fine?

Unless you are planning to run a T88 on the car, don't change the diff, it's perfectly fine to support 400 rwkw, possibley more.

Save your money buddy and change it only when it needs to be done.

thanks everyone yea i want to upgrade turbo but i want everything to be ready for the extra power. how much hp or kw can stock internals handle

i already have a heavy duty clutch so thats done.

il need to do an afm but on the turbo timer it has the gauge showing it but i dont think it means i have one do i. what sort does everybody recommend.

also what injecters does everybody recommend

im planning on getting a power fc then once all is ready put on the a new turbo not sure which one yet and then get it tuned.

i finally have a well paying job now so will be able to afford what i have been wanting to do for the past year but being between jobs for most of the last 12 years has been hard just affording to live and keep petrol in it lol. still 98 octane even though it busted me.

thanks for all the advice its good when basic questions turn off subject a little bit as then i get more information which i wont have to ask later so thanks to the off topic people to lol

If its an exedy heavy duty clutch then it probably wont see over about 250ish rwkw. So depending on the power your planning on making you might need to keep that in the back of your mind. If its a greater clutch then this then my mistake lol

But yeah as stated:

ECU

Injectors

FMIC

Fuel Pump

Exhaust

AFM

all good starting points. Probably an electronic boost controller as well unless ur plannig to just run the turbo on the wastegates boost setting.

Again, why would you upgrade the diff BEFORE the new turbo goes in??

Why fix it if it ain't broke and will do the job perfectly fine?

Unless you are planning to run a T88 on the car, don't change the diff, it's perfectly fine to support 400 rwkw, possibley more.

Save your money buddy and change it only when it needs to be done.

lol... just.... lol

thanks everyone yea i want to upgrade turbo but i want everything to be ready for the extra power. how much hp or kw can stock internals handle

il need to do an afm but on the turbo timer it has the gauge showing it but i dont think it means i have one do i. what sort does everybody recommend.

also what injecters does everybody recommend

stock internals are good for around 260-300rwkw, depending on condition, dyno etc. sometimes more but then it becomes a question of how long it'll last.

have a look at your afm and see what colour sticker it has on it. green is stock silvertop/s1 25, pink is stock s2 25, ornage is z32 airflow meter and yellow is q45. z32 afm would be fine for what your after.

as for injectors, if you dont plan on ever building the motor then some nismo 555s will do nicely

i just want to know what to do before i can upgrade to a high mount turbo. Hopefully keeping stock internals if possible.

Fmic, 3 inch hks exhaust tyrbo back, upgraded suspension and slotted hd brakes. Boost controller, turbo timer, bosch 550 hp fuel pump. I know this car had a 500 hp engine before i got it now has half cut engine new stock turbo and gear box. I think the heads from old engine but not sure.

Cheers

Wayde

I Build a R34 GTT for my mate first top turbo upgrade i've done, only usually mess with GTR's, but the car was stock to begin with, bout 10g's later it was making 300 to 320kw with ease. No detenation wat so ever, very awesome to drive. The car was done aon a very low budget had to make alot of stuff myself. Still going today 130000km running 18psi all day everyday RB25 Neo's are a very tough engine. List of parts:

Cooling Pro FMIC

Custom 3.5" Exhaust

Apexi Power FC

Gizmo EBC

Cosmetic Metal Head Gasket

GTR Nismo Fuel Pump

POD Filter

Garret 3040 Turbo

Stainless manifold

48mm external wastegate

OS Giken Twin Plate Clutch

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
    • So my car is finally back from paint! This took an absolutely insane amount of work and should get it's own build thread - but I didn't build it. It was completed by Troy @ https://scalekustoms.com.au/ I originally bought the AOSHIMA URAS Type R kit while I was in Japan, it's supposed to look like this when assembled: Now, I thought that was cool enough until I opened the box with Dismay, as there's no way I could possibly have completed it. The thing is 1/24 and has details down to the steering wheel horn button, which is a 2mm diameter sticker. I originally wondered if someone could make it at all, as is - But then things got a little carried away. It's worth noting that the model does not have an openable bonne, let alone engine bay, OR an openable boot. - Troy has worked wonders with 3D printer and presumably better eyes than I will ever have. My photos suck, so I will post up some of his in-progress ones he sent to me during the way. Unsuprisingly, he is very detailed. A lot of these are out of order. But he: 1) Made a LS engine and an engine bay appear out of thin air 2) Made the bonnet removable 3) Printed the rims I will buy in the future (or any rim you want) 4) Printed and added the wing that is going on 5) Tinted my back windows as this is what my car has IRL (privacy glass) 6) Added a licence plate. 7) Somehow did the interior 8) 3D Printed my actual seats 9) Made the exhaust under the car connect even though this is likely invisible. 10) Created a boot with my fking battery box, power steering reservoir, subwoofer and toolboxes back there. To say it's insane is an understatement. And I f**ked it all up because when I was re-mounting the wing (it broke in transit) I spilled glue everywhere and ripped paint up and Gregged the rear half of the car. Which about makes sense. Also, this arrived on the same day. Quite the change from: I spent 16 hours per day over the next 3 days pre-christmas putting the interior back together, mounting lip, fixing various bodykit problems with window mouldings, etc. and servicing, rebuilding my 370z brakes to go on the car 'soon', messing with heights to check clearances for new wheels, etc. I also had a foray into mounting wiper-mounted washer jets which was an absolute disaster. The bodyshop has welded (and painted) over the stock jet locations for reasons unknown to everybody (i.e they forgot) I also wanted to wire in the oil pressure sensor on Christmas Eve which was a BAD IDEA. You do not know terror like pulling your ECU apart, pinning in half-fitting pins that aren't the right ones, but trying anyway because it's Christmas eve, putting your ECU back together and having a no-start condition with a fuel pump not priming. Then you undo all your work and the fuel pump still doesn't prime. So after all that terror and horror and pain and tedious disassembly, the issue was the relay in the boot which seems to have died/stuck when I was turning the car off and on about 700 times testing shitty washer jets. I also re-wired the fuel pump power plug which fell apart in my hands. I am very happy I had 3 extra pre-made ones from a few posts/last Christmas's breakdown. https://bluewireautomotive.com/products/10-x-pcm-ecm-ecu-terminals I have put an order for these in, so I can actually add the pins to the ECU properly. The commodore ECU does not have the pins for Oil Pressure via ODB2. However the ECU can support it if you create the pins and wire them in. So for round two, and somehow attempting to route that into the engine bay through my impossible engine bay grommet is a fight for another day. It's 40C in Melbourne tomorrow, I am half tempted to drive the car with the aircon on to deliver presents to my partner's family and see if it helps with the overheating-on-40C-days-in-traffic-with-aircon-on-only issue that the vents were intended to solve. Do I feel lucky?
    • Yes, while being... strictly unnecessary. Tuning is a bit like quantum physics. You don't need to understand what Schroedinger's equation actually means. You just need to run the computation and accept the answers. With tuning, you just push page up/down until the exhaust tells you that you've got the fuel right. The VE can stay hidden behind the curtain like the Wizard of Oz and you'll never need to know what he looked like.
    • The second part yes, the first part about easy VE calculation is something I've seen a few people talk about online.
×
×
  • Create New...