Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-40292-1246377026_thumb.jpgHi guys, I am in the process of fixing my r34 gtt which I had stacked the front end off last year and now that I have finally been paid out by the insurance company a year later after having been stuffed :P around and going through courts its all good and I miss my car that much I've decided to fix it :D . lol anyways straight to the point I scored some xenon headlights off a bloke here on sau "pending delivery" to replace my old xenon headlights only to find out they won't pass VIV or roadworthy which I didn't know about because I thought I was replacing a factory item.. Well the car came with it and it's got a dimming switch next to the ignition. Also please shed some light on items like the bonnet, guards and bar I was going to for a carbon fiber TS GTR bonnet and F/Glass TS GTR bar and I have to replace passenger airbag and steering wheel and driver side seat belt and tensioners. I need to know if the Carbon and Fiber Glass are road worthy before I buy the stuff and what is the process involved for replacing airbags and seatbelt as it's been a challenge trying to find parts like radiator support, oem guards, windscreen front bar support headlights support I guess I have to go with new parts from NISSAN especially airbags., seatbelt. Anyways the car has been deemed as a repairable write off uneconomical but the chassis is straight and most of the damage is cosmetic no mechanical damage apart from radiator, AC stuff and windscreen washer bottle which made me decide to fix it after which I need to go for roadworthy and VIV inspection to register it. Also is it roadworthy to have a front mount and airfilter pod. I've attached some photos...

Guys thanks for listening. I look forward to your feedback :rant: .

Cheers.

PS: Do you think it is it worth fixing or should sell it as or strip it and sell it in parts?

post-40292-1246377083_thumb.jpg

post-40292-1246377111_thumb.jpg

post-40292-1246377165_thumb.jpg

post-40292-1246377210_thumb.jpg

post-40292-1246377469_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277199-help-please-r34gtt/
Share on other sites

Cant have a CF bonnet, needs to crumple and absorb padestrian impact etc. Do a search, but most states will let you have one intake mod (enclosed pod/fastened pod or IC)

What speed did you have the accident? I did heaps more damage about 12 months ago but my airbags didnt let go

Cant have a CF bonnet, needs to crumple and absorb padestrian impact etc. Do a search, but most states will let you have one intake mod (enclosed pod/fastened pod or IC)

What speed did you have the accident? I did heaps more damage about 12 months ago but my airbags didnt let go

what about the airbags...does the ecu needs to be cleared of any faults since the bags were deployed.

Cant have a CF bonnet, needs to crumple and absorb padestrian impact etc. Do a search, but most states will let you have one intake mod (enclosed pod/fastened pod or IC)

What speed did you have the accident? I did heaps more damage about 12 months ago but my airbags didnt let go

heheh forgot to answer ur question....about 60 give or take at time of collision what about u?

well you will need to find a non xenon headlight or you will have to get a compliance company to remove the xenon and put a serial stamp on the headlight stating that it no longer has xenon.

if that too much of a hassle id be happy to do a swap for my headlights for yours. i have a xenon headlight which the company that complianced my headlight removed and put a serial stamp on it making it a legal headlight.

with your xenon headlight you will not pass roadworthy.

as for if its worth it to fix your car or part it out. depends on whats actually damaged structure wise. are the radiator supports bent? the damage doesnt look too bad. panal wise looks like 2 new guards, bonnet and front bar. you need roadworthy headlights, frton reo supprt bar, rad support. maybe a new radaitor, new horn. get the airbag sensors re done. resetting the airbags maybe costly though.

good luck with it all.

The airbag light should be flashing if it finds a fault. If you've replaced all the right components and the ecu has been reset since being repaired (i.e. battery going flat ) it should be ok. Just make sure it lights up when you start your car and goes off.

At impact probably the same if not 70, although the car up front of me was moving so the G's probably werent as high

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...