Project 'gozila'...

[Marko R1]

i have been questioned on the way im running in the new engine and that its a bit soft with 10psi and 5krpm rev limit.

would anyone recommend against raising the limiter to 8krpm for its last 300km before final tune? or best leave it as is

trying to get jims time is impossible

[N1GTR]

It will make no difference, if the rings arent bedded in by now, they wont be in the next 300km...

[Swiper the Fox]

Just aquired 4 more RB30's to add to my collection and Phil at Argo has a pallet of rods available to me.

should be able to stack the pallet back on the rack for him after mine is built...lol

[Marko R1]

Just aquired 4 more RB30's to add to my collection and Phil at Argo has a pallet of rods available to me.

should be able to stack the pallet back on the rack for him after mine is built...lol

just think about the added torque u will have to lift that pallet

bigger is better haaa! i know from personal experience

[R.I.P.S NZ]

i have been questioned on the way im running in the new engine and that its a bit soft with 10psi and 5krpm rev limit.

18-20psi and 7500rpm straight away and full power rpm within 500-750km max with 2 oil changes.

IMO more boost is more important than more rpm but 10psi and 5000rpm is being real soft on it.

I'd have had a basic mineral oil in there too and only go to full synthetic well AFTER you have done full power mapping.

Rob

[R31Nismoid]

^ Similar to mine...

Bed on the dyno - 75% power and off we go for a few hundred and then once no leaks or something i didnt do up - full power

[Marko R1]

18-20psi and 7500rpm straight away and full power rpm within 500-750km max with 2 oil changes.

IMO more boost is more important than more rpm but 10psi and 5000rpm is being real soft on it.

I'd have had a basic mineral oil in there too and only go to full synthetic well AFTER you have done full power mapping.

Rob

i finally spoke to crd and the reason why they want me to run-in soft is because they didnt build the bottom end hence being very precautious. at the very least the engine is being well respected and just about impossible to fail in its early stages which is a good thing

everyone has their own method to their madness

[JCaSs1001]

how long does it take to do a run tune???

will the length of time affect the quality of run in if it takes too long?? or wont it be enough to worry about??

[GT-RZ]

From what i'v read the majority of bedding in happens within the first drive (or best bit of the hone wears away) that is the most critical time to get the rings bedded in, after that you've missed the biggest opportunity. After that it's recommended to use mineral oil for a while to let the rest fully wear in.

If you stuff up the first bit you can never fix it up. unless re-hone and rings.

[proengines]

i have been questioned on the way im running in the new engine and that its a bit soft with 10psi and 5krpm rev limit.

would anyone recommend against raising the limiter to 8krpm for its last 300km before final tune? or best leave it as is

trying to get jims time is impossible

Marko, I'd recommend against raising the limit, only because the engine hasn't been tuned at those sort of revs so you really have no idea what it will be doing fuel or timing-wise above the revs it was set up at.

[Marko R1]

Marko, I'd recommend against raising the limit, only because the engine hasn't been tuned at those sort of revs so you really have no idea what it will be doing fuel or timing-wise above the revs it was set up at.

i agree greg which is why i decided to leave it as is until i get the full power tune

[Marko R1]

im undecided whether i should update my exhaust...i have a hks superdrager & as some would know the exhaust increases in diameter.

i.e. starts @ 3.25" just after the front pipes, steps to 3.5" then goes to 3.75" under the diff to the back of the car.

im tempted to leave it as is for the final tune & if it becomes a restriction i'll then probably update the 3.25" piece to 3.5".

rob - u had the best idea by asking my tuner to drop the exhaust when its on the dyno to see if there is much of a difference

im thinking out loud.

Edited July 12, 2009 by Marko R1

[R32 Driver]

On the topic of exhaust, did you have to modify the dump/front pipes? or did the standard 26 items bolt up?

[Marko R1]

i had the front pipes extended to take up the additional 1" in height as the head & turbo's sit higher.

lengthening the dump pipes is not the way to do it as they are much harder to r&r.

[N1GTR]

Is it booked in for a tune?

[Marko R1]

hey steve - i will have results by the weekend

if it doesnt crack over 400awkw on 98 i will heart broken then it will be e85!

[N1GTR]

Remind me, what rear housings did you get on the turbos?

[Marko R1]

i went with .64 which is the standard & recommended size by GCG & willall racing...direct bolt on to conventional dumps

i was informed that the .82 is only suitable if u want to run it as a single setup

[N1GTR]

So its basically a GT-RS sized turbo.

Ill be suprised aswel if you dont crack the 400's.

As an example, my GT-RS's @ 18psi netted 371kw's. My head doesnt flow anywhere near the amount yours does. Thats also cams not dialled in.

That tune took all of 45mins and was quite rich. It was done in a hurry as i had to drive it interstate literally straight away. I know with the cams done, decent boost and timing it wouldve cracked the 4's - so you should be a shoe in to the 4's

After all the SMS's, PMs and emails i expect at least an SMS as soon as its off the dyno and you've taken it around the block

[Marko R1]

well i worked out if i made 270.9awkw @ 6800rpm;

theoretically @ 8500rpm it will make 338.62awkw (if i use the formula of 39.84awkw per 1000rpm).

before anyone rips me apart, i know that the power level is not consistent across every 1000rpm & the power may even drop off higher in the rpm hence this is just an average number & 'guesstimate'

...this is calculated @ 10psi with cams @ 0degrees.

with more than double the boost & tuned cams it 'should' piss in over 400awkw

now where's that flux capacity & white coat!