Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey there,

ive got the cho cho train on my GTR (aftermarket BOV, custom piping etc) does anyone know if i enclose my pod filters in a cold air box if it will dull down the noise,

the BOV are plumbed back in, internal gated 2860-5's

cheers

ps. thats if a box will fit, there aint much room

post-59994-1246776807_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277817-gtr-cho-cho-train/
Share on other sites

there should be heaps of room. Here is my setup not low mount turbos but you get the idea.

um yeah holly crap thats mean! yeah ive got a few more pipes around that box area though, but cheers for the pic's......

but the main thing being i want to quiet down the cho cho.....will the box achieve this to a degree?

cheers

Make an enclosure, use sound deadening sheets and use acoustic foam, the shet you put behind speakers, even add some sound deadening around that area too (the body that is).

That should work :P

well that's my plan, I'm going to get one of those eBay Hi Octane Pod Enclosures, stick on Dynamatt in the inside.

Looks kinda stock, sounds kinda stock, cops will think is is stock

Are you talking about shuffling/reversion noise or just general induction noise?

just the reversion noise (established its not the 'shuffle') i wish i could here the induction noise over it!

i didnt ask my mechanic to make up all the custom piping, and didnt want the aftermarket BOV (even though its plumbed back) but i got it!

i liked the car as i bought it, the induction noise, and the turbos spooling..... now all i here is f*cken Thomas the Tank engine felching away under my hood :)

What ECU are you running?

When I put my -5s in I had the choo choo train badly. However, when I got my Vipec ECU tuned, the choo choo train is gone. It has never returned so it can be tuned out with the right ECU and tuner. And yes, I have FULL HKS hard pipe kit.

What ECU are you running?

When I put my -5s in I had the choo choo train badly. However, when I got my Vipec ECU tuned, the choo choo train is gone. It has never returned so it can be tuned out with the right ECU and tuner. And yes, I have FULL HKS hard pipe kit.

Same here, although it was tuned in with a powerfc and tuned out by another tuner.

Clearly some turbos are nearer to causing compressor surge and there are a number of other factors from BOV's, intake piping and tuning that can also bring it on. All things worth checking if you want to be rid of it (or heaven forbid want to bring it on).

i have driven one particular set-up that had it so bad it wasn't funny. it was an RB26 with the large R34 N1s but high mounted with custom piping etc big cams lots of good work but the shuffle my god man! the shuffle. first it sounded like a steam train going up a high. chuff chuff.... chuff chuff...chuff chuff.... chuff chuff...chuff chuff.... chuff chuff... the it would make some little sqwaking noises like it was a spaceship taking off. and from idle to about 6,000rpm it felt like it had all of 50kw max. but from 6,000 to 8,5000rpm it had 380awkw!!! the thing would scare the crap out of you at 6,000rpm as it just took off but it would literally take ages to get there. worst case of shuffle/reversion/whatever you want to call it, that i've ever experienced.

yeah i get that with mine, it does get a little annoying.

i've just learnt to get used to it, i dont have to drive up too many long hills, and if i do i just let it slow down then kick it back a gear and plant it!

induction noise puts a smile on your face!!

mine dissapeared with the fitment of bigger (again) dumps, and the enlargement of the hot side cooler piping while keeping the smaller cold side piping.

I have completely custom piping, no BOV, and two massive pods. My idea was to dampen it with the intercooler and im very happy

hey there,

i have a LINK G4

took it back to my tuner (6 hr drive there, fly back, then fly back up, drive back etc etc) he is considered one, or the best tuner's in the south island (NZ) and told him to retune it, but he still could'nt get rid of it. i told him about going back to original BOV's, or put in a softer spring etc, but he said it would'nt hold at high boost (im running 19.5lbs @ 345AWKW)

i have had so many people tell me what to do, but it's kind of hard to tell someone who's job is it to tune cars to do this-that-and the other, i dont want to offend him aye.

well might try the cold air box theory...

cheers robbie

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks! Will get it looked at before winter 🥶 other than that she's a mint ride love it aye 
    • FWIW a lot of the local owners that do a big build tend to have cars that are perpetually broken. 
    • I just got this system but haven’t installed yet I got a Moroso sealed box (defect reasons) which will be set up same as their pic The quality is high grade, the correspondence I had with the owner (former head designer for Rockford Fosgate) was unbelievable, guiding me with what I needed. Even told me not to buy some things as it could be sorted in a different way at his loss. Just a bit of a bite with the exchange rate and don’t purchase gear in 1 hit that goes over $1,000 au, lol I forgot!  
    • Thanks mate for that reply. Very helpful.    it’s a 2022 400R so would most likely lose those features as you say.     I did a quick compare of a rv37 nav and heading for sale in Japan to q50 model. I’ll pop pics below. Seems  Japan spec head into top, nav unit second below it   below pic Q50 aud delivered     differences seem to be Aus delivered has a different plug top left hand side of head unit- not sure what and where it goes.   and nav unit Japanese tv37 had an extra plug put    Again I’m really not sure what each of these differences mean!       the actual plugs on a v37 and q50 screens look identical on both screens… pics below for comparing. (One screen was is a us delivered one) but should be same gps signals etc as Australia.    If it were as simple as swapping a nav unit from q50 aud delivered im interested -just want to figure out what the missing plug is for before spending big $ on a second hand part for it to not work, and I guess with the head unit, if the band expander does the job (I got a 20mHz so should get the range I’m after) so should narrow my issue down to nav unit only.  I’d love to know what the extra cable on rv37 does and if I eliminate that part what it’ll do to the setup,    and also, if I can figure out what that head unit plug difference is, what does that cable do and where does it got can it be altered or re-plugged?! Excuse my ignorance what is ACP/AA, what does that stand for? (Apple car play? Android air play)? so If I swapped head units to save using a band expander, I’d likely lose those better features to have an oem Unit operational. Better to use a band expander and retain AirPlay options and newer version of head unit     provably best to band expand it, and focus on the nav unit. th isn’t  a big deal/ would be cool to have it working  from what I can tel we use a PAL Signal and Japan uses a NTSC signal  I don’t know if there’s a co better or if the screen only reads NTSC, or if it’s the tv module that needs replacing… no big deal don’t need it but more of a curiosity thing on that!   Thanks for the info re tyre sensors, helpful and great to know.  I was reading the online manual off Japan website and it seemed to make it sound more confusing than it is  I guess a rim replacement would require the sensors to be moved to a new rim to carry that option over?!     Thanks for the info regarding diagnostic mode. I appreciate your help mate. Trying to brainstorm here to find a solution to get as much gadgets as I can working! I plan to get my local Nissan tech to have a look too who used to be at an Infiniti dealer back in the day to see if any thing they have or idea can find a soliton. But hoping anyone here has gone down the same route to make life easier!!   i guess identifying the cable/plug differences and what they do would be a great way of finding out if the units are transferable    thanks again 
    • No idea about the remote start part. If the V37 nav is anything like other Nissan JDM vehicles, you can't get the factory Japanese nav working in australia, a card from a different car almost certainly won't work, those cards are usually matched to the serial number of the DCU.  You could be possibly swap out the components from a AuDM Q50 to get it working, but if this is a new model (2021+) 400R, then you will lose the newer features like ACP/AA.  That said, if you have ACP/AA, just use google maps.. I assume a band expander would be required to get the local radio stations, but don't forget the Japanese FM band is narrower than ours, so you still might not be able to receive all Australian stations. I can't see any reason the tyre pressure sensors won't work here, there is the sensor unit inside the rim and the receiver nearby in the wheel well.  I have never had to change the batteries on my 2015 Q50, so I assume they last quite a while.  A straight battery change shouldn't need them to be re-registered as they are the same unit, that should only be required if you replace a sensor with a new one.   Word of warning, if you ever go into the 'secret' diagnostics mode on the main screen, DO NOT EVER do a 'reset' in this menu, it will erase all of your model specific data in the DCU and you will need a trip to a dealer to re-program it all, which would be particularly painful being an import.  This applies to the AuDM Q50 too.
×
×
  • Create New...