Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd get them painted. You'll get a nice clean unmarked surface again. Only thing is you'd have to spray the rest accordingly.

I don't even know how previous owners could do some things they do to the interior. A car I checked out last year had a horendous interior - like someone had thrown some corrosive acid all over the dash.

+ I have a sticky bit like in the 2nd pic you've got. Would this be from some sort of adhesive used to hold attach a gauge pod or something?

Edited by peterw

Nothing, the cars been sitting in the sun with double sided tape, some effort and some goo remover may work but the best option is to paint the whole dash peice, check out the DIY section.

You can also do the door trims the same way.

You can remove residual adhesive with Double D Eucalyptus Oil or Kero or Tar/Bug Remover.

That last pic looks like damage by someone with long fingernails or someone trying to get out of the car in a damn hurry from red/blue flashing lights?

Mm thanks guys. I'll probably up painting the lot black as per factory.

Its just weird cause the rest of the interior is perfect, the steering wheel is basically new :|

Anyway of getting rid of the stuff in the 2nd pic? Don't have the $ to cut it out and put a screen in there....

K&N wax and grease remover available from most autobarn,super cheap etc stores will take care of the glue residue from double sided tape no problem.

the last few pics are where the latex coating on the dash and plastic trim around the window switches have been worn/scratched off and will need repainting.

heres the link for headunit removal.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/He...al-t190825.html

Edited by Jack88

You'll need to use eucalyptus oil or something similar (as above) , but check what it does to the dash materiel in a hidden away spot first before you rub the shit out of the dash.(2nd pic) If your lucky it will all come off without effecting surface too much, then go over it with some dash cleaner (armorol)

In the 4th pic down that latex coating here is fkd, so with that whole dash fascia you can gently rub all the latex coating all off (very sore fingers) and hope the plastic under it is good enough to be polished back to a nice shine. (did this on mine, not 100% but good enough until i decide to paint it) But more than likely it will need to be painted. If you paint it just sand the latex off first. Or just buy a dash fascia off ebay. good luck

a citrus goo remover will be ok for those white marks in ur first pic, duno about the rest. definetly get the trim near the door painted, will make it look 10times better. someone went to war with that thing lol prolly previous owner parked in the same spot everyday and the sun just killed it. go to wreckers and see if u can even get a new part. goodluck bud

if you wanted to make the passenger part of the dash look a bit better, you can go see autobarn and they sell dashmats to suit R33's. they probably wont have stock, but they get them from Command Auto Group. I have one on my silvia in black. looks good IMO.

Eucalyptus oil will work, but you may see that after the tape is removed that under the sticker will be a slightly different colour to the rest of the dash.

maybe just replace the fascia and the plastic part ont he door. even just take them off a 25t. i cant see them costing that much!?

2nd pic - definately Eucalyptus oil and then armourall the dash.

Eucalyptus oil didn't work... For the 2nd pic, it just made the dash a different colour around it and didn't really take anything off after hard scrubbing.. When I tried to get the white circle, the clear around it vanished but still left most of the white... :)

Plan B/C.

Do you think that "T-Cut Polish" in 'black' can be used? Show your car to your local car parts store to confirm.

It's used to blend surrounding colours to the basic 'black' if you get it in 'black'.

Black shoe polish on some hidden 'test' area can be Plan C/D

Ok use "Goo remover" (supermarket laundry asile) for the sticky shit.

As for the door trim, remove & take paint off with nail polish remover sand back with super fine paper & respray- I just did

my door trims & centre console they came up a treat! Two days work in total-F*ck paying someone esle to do it I paid

$24 for some pressure packs in colour & clear matt (autobarn/supercheap).

Get into it :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...