Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Upper ball joints have some play but there wasn't the time to sort these this time around so I'll have the cross my fingers that the work done has sorted this out.......

R32/33/34's don't have upper ball joints. :P

Cheers

Gary

R32/33/34's don't have upper ball joints. :P

Cheers

Gary

Well they have something on the end of the upper arm. Nissan part # 40160 AR510. Needs to be pressed in and out. Seen it with me own eyes! Must be called something else. Care to enlighten? See diagram in post #2, it's called a third link?

Well they have something on the end of the upper arm. Nissan part # 40160 AR510. Needs to be pressed in and out. Seen it with me own eyes! Must be called something else. Care to enlighten? See diagram in post #2, it's called a third link?

Rubber bushes, inner and outer, on the upper control arm. If they are worn, best to replace then with adjustable (for camber) polurethane bushes, Whiteline, Nolathane, SuperPro etc.

Cheers

Gary

Rubber bushes, inner and outer, on the upper control arm. If they are worn, best to replace then with adjustable (for camber) polurethane bushes, Whiteline, Nolathane, SuperPro etc.

Cheers

Gary

Already got the inner adjustable bushes. The outer one going on what I saw and the diagram don't look like bushes. They look like some sort of ball joint........to me any way.

Already got the inner adjustable bushes. The outer one going on what I saw and the diagram don't look like bushes. They look like some sort of ball joint........to me any way.

Let me guess you are running castor rods with a rod ends rather than bushes and the outer upper suspension link bush is lasting next to no time at all?

Let me guess you are running castor rods with a rod ends rather than bushes and the outer upper suspension link bush is lasting next to no time at all?

Dunno really. Those items are 20 years old on my car so yes, could be the castor rods with bearing ends, and yes could be 20 yrs of wear and tear

  • 2 weeks later...

Just a quick update, I've really only driven at legal hwy speeds but now there is absolutely no feedback anywhere whilst on the brakes. I guess this means that the rotor skimming has done its job, and was likely the cause of the feedback. The question now is what caused the rotors to need skimming. I personally don't think they were warped (just didn't feel like it), so I'm going with the brake supplier theory that the rotors had deposits on them....... As to why that happened, I guess it could be the WBs.....

I think I need some harder driving to see how it all goes once the brakes / front suspension get a harder workout.

  • 8 months later...

hey mate what was the outcome of this? i'm trying to work out a similar problem with my 33 gtr.

im currently doing front shafts and uprights fingers crossed that'll solve my problem but in the process just realised one of my hubs isn't the best

there isn't a dime of play in the hubs its just the bearing on passanger side is bone dry and doesn't turn over too easily/smooth so i may need to look at these also..

not too sure what i'll do with the hubs atm as i need the car for PI on sunday.. (replacing bearings isn't fun :D )

  • 3 weeks later...
hey mate what was the outcome of this? i'm trying to work out a similar problem with my 33 gtr.

im currently doing front shafts and uprights fingers crossed that'll solve my problem but in the process just realised one of my hubs isn't the best

there isn't a dime of play in the hubs its just the bearing on passanger side is bone dry and doesn't turn over too easily/smooth so i may need to look at these also..

not too sure what i'll do with the hubs atm as i need the car for PI on sunday.. (replacing bearings isn't fun :thumbsup: )

Just saw this post now. Sorry for late reply. It's been a while since I was dealing with all of this but after pretty much making sure all the front brake and suspension components were new I no longer have a problem........Replacing the bearings was a bastard of a job. I didn't do it personally, but I sure paid....

  • 1 month later...
Just saw this post now. Sorry for late reply. It's been a while since I was dealing with all of this but after pretty much making sure all the front brake and suspension components were new I no longer have a problem........Replacing the bearings was a bastard of a job. I didn't do it personally, but I sure paid....

How much does it cost you to get someone to press the new bearings in?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah i agree paint match stops it from standing out so much, oh that's actually really good to know i was wondering if it would help with air flow now actually having an outlet in the bonnet. Will have to focus on ducting into and out of the radiator now to make the most of it.
    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
×
×
  • Create New...