Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My car is not a vQ25 that ain't even my engine type

I think you'll find it's a VQ25DD (the direct injected variant of the VQ25). Still doesn't make it OBD2 compliant. Based on what my local Nissan dealer told me you can use Consult 2 to gain most information (that's what they used on my VQ25DD) and Consult 3 is better.

Have anyone ever experience a p0100 on a Nissan skyline v35 250gt what is that

Are you back on the "cheap stuff" again? Scotty nm35, a well respected member here answered your same question back up there on posting #204. It refers to a faulty AFM.

Have anyone ever experience a p0100 on a Nissan skyline v35 250gt what is that

If you have no idea about fault codes, or google searching fault codes, or repairing faults, there are places you can take your car where they know how to fix it, where there are men willing to get their hands dirty to save you doing the hard work... ;)

With no location listed I can't help you find one of these specialists spector. Sorry.

Hi everyone,

I have a 2003 V35 GT300 and I would like to find more info on the EGR block off mod. I tried to search the forum but came up empty...

Also I did the throttle plate clean and I got the check eng. light on performed a ECU reset and the light went off but... when I start up the engine it revs somewhat high to about 1500 RPM for a second or two and then settles would that be normal? I have not noticed that before the clean.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Edited by pula loca

probably needs an idle air volume re-learn.. assuming the VQ30 has this opiton like the VQ35 does.

How do I do that as I don't have the "check engine" light on?

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)

It is better to count the time accurately with a clock. 1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.

2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.

3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.

4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.

5. Confirm that the accelerator pedal is fully released, then turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.

6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.

7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)

7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.

8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.

9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.

10. Start engine and let it idle.

11. Wait 20 seconds.

12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

Realistically the idle relearn needs to be done using the consult3, the manual method is hit and miss. It also won't work if you have an engine code up in most cases.

Try it out, if it works you will hear the engine rev to over 2k, then slowly drop to 650 revs. There are other procedures that need to be done before the relearn though, they need to be done in order preferably.

Realistically the idle relearn needs to be done using the consult3, the manual method is hit and miss. It also won't work if you have an engine code up in most cases.

True.. it can be difficult to do with the manual mode. I managed to do it on my VQ35 with a non-functioning CEL.. which added to the challenge.. took me about 20 tries to get it.

You need to do the throttle pedal position learn and the throttle closed position learn first, but they are fairly simple in comparison. It will also only work with an engine temperature within a certain range too.

In the VQ35, rpm peaked up to about 1,200rpm, then dipped to about 450rpm, and settled out at 650.

I was also forced to do the re-learn after high idle problems, post throttle body clean.

Never seen one for under $200 work on v35s

Agreed. if the 250 and 300 aren't OBDII compatable, this isn't likely to work. You will need a real consult2 device or a good clone.

You would have more luck with the VQ35 ECU though.. I have the Blatz cable with nissandatascan, and it lets me do this procedure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
    • To be fair - you see the same thing for every clutch. There's always someone making an installation error.
×
×
  • Create New...