Jump to content
SAU Community

Any Direct Injected 300gt / 250gt V35's?


Recommended Posts

Need help 5 of the spark plugs look ok with the white or gray color tip but there's one spark plug on cylinder 6 by the throttle body is totally black on the tip like its foul. Upon inspection of cylinder 6 through that small spark plug hole is wetness an as I touch it. It smell like fuel. Am I experiencing a fuel injector leak on this cylinder an if so does these v35 250gt skyline use the Same fuel injectors. Car starts fine but idle rough at low rpm, black fire also strong exhaust fumes an lack of power am experiencing

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tiptronic mode ... even if it says 3rd gear on the dash it doesnt mean its in 3rd gear. It is designed to change back to second and first if youre not moving fast enough for the gear to be used. Its not a true manual selection unfortunately.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ps.. there are mechanics out there with consult tools that will give you an explanation. I know a guy in adelaide who has a consult tool that will read all the diagnostics but still couldnt help me with a transmission fault code. Then i found a mobile auto electrician that had a consult tool which gave me a detailed explanation of all faults. Then i visited a transmission specialist that had even better knowledge.

Unfortunately you will have to visit various workshops until one of them has a tool that works with your car. And it will prob cost $60 per visit if theyre mobile mechanics

Link to comment
Share on other sites

only one of the spark plug is foul, the other 5 are good. i found little bit of fuel on my cloth when i push the cloth down the hole that had the foul spark plug. car running rich rough idle an lack of power. where can i find fuel or direct injectors for this v35

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok you guy i am experiencing a rich condition and i have remove all six spark plugs and have discovered that cylinder six below the trottle body spark plug have a foul look black black tip but clean around the threads. the other 5 look like normal spark plugs with the white or gray color tip. anyway upon looking in cylinder 6 hole was some wetness inside. i push a slim cloth in the hole an upon removing the cloth it was fuel. AM I HAVING A LEAKING FUEL INJECTOR ON CYLINDER 6 THATS IS CAUSING ME TO RUN RICH CAUSE I ALSO SMELLING FUEL OUT OF MY EXHAUST AND ROUGH IDLE AND LOSS OF POWER.

size

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Take them to an injector specialist and get them tested if you are worried.

If the injectors are fine, you likely have a short in the wire to the ecu, or the ecu is faulty.

Is there any water dripping on the ecu, or water damage inside it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can someone please tell me where is the direct injectors on these vq25dd engine is it in the middle of the lower intake after removing the top am bottom intake manifold or is it under the valve covers were the ignition coils are

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think you're out of your depth here. IMHO replacing the injectors on a Di engine is something you probably should leave to someone who doesn't need to ask these sorts of questions. Why not get your injectors flow tested by an expert in Di? Most of the Diesel specialists should be able to help here. Otherwise you could be replacing something that doen't need replacing, and I believe it won't be cheap based on what I was told. Are you sure the issues you're having in that cylinder aren't due to a coil pack breaking down or something different?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tiptronic mode ... even if it says 3rd gear on the dash it doesnt mean its in 3rd gear. It is designed to change back to second and first if youre not moving fast enough for the gear to be used. Its not a true manual selection unfortunately.

My 350GT will do the same if I'm not moving fast enough, but it will always show what gear it is in on the dash even when it downshifts on it's own. Never had it show as being in 3rd when it's actually in 2nd or anything.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Trust me I know its a fuel injector leaking all six coil packs are brand new. Meet fuel in the park plug hole. Plus this the third time changing single foul spark plug

What coil packs are you using, and what plugs?

The chance a direct injector is stuck open and leaking is slim. You can't remove them easily, they use piston ring style seals around them. They are very hard to remove and refit for a reason, as they need to hold in thousands of psi pressure on combustion. As I have said, get them done by a specialist.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My 350GT will do the same if I'm not moving fast enough, but it will always show what gear it is in on the dash even when it downshifts on it's own. Never had it show as being in 3rd when it's actually in 2nd or anything.

The early 35s only show the highest possible gear selected, not the gear it automatically selects if you go too slow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, yeah, no arguing that the duty cycle is different. And a circuit car will go to those speeds for more distance and longer times. But, I suspect that if a tailshaft has a harmonic problem, that it would cause damage and shit itself maybe even on the first pass. A second or two of running at the resonant/harmonic problem speed is already a couple hundred revolutions.
    • Shaft speed would be the same, however it's how long they hold it there for and repeated conditions. FWIW half way down the main straight at SMSP I'm bouncing off 4th with a 8600RPM limiter. That shaft would be spinning at 8600RPM for a few seconds before I need to smash the brakes, by T2 it's getting close to that speed again. Now a drag car/roll race car would see that shaft speed for a 1 to 2 secs then they would coast, hit the brakes and that's it.
    • With same diff ratio, tyre diameter and road speed, the tailshaft rpm is the same regardless of the gearbag's ratio. Given that very quick drag cars are probably doing similar road speeds to the fastest circuit cars (circa 300 km/h), and there will be many of either category that can't go that fast and so you'd have inummerable matchups between drag and circuit car speeds at smaller numbers, and given that they are probably using rather similar tyre diameters and probably using similar diff ratios, and...where any of those numbers were different they could quite easily be in opposite directions thus cancelling out.... I think you'd find that there'd be more similarity than difference in tailshaft speed between these two use cases, no?
    • they might see those prop shaft speeds for 1 to 2 secs only 
    • A year of slogging through this bearing issue and finally fixed. What a nightmare. The oil pressure increase did not fix the problem. If you would like to read all the details in case you ever run into a similar issue visit my thread on Yellow Bullet. https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/continuous-rod-bearing-issues.2689569/?post_id=74193031&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-74193031 In the end the rod bearings themselves were the issue. I had switched from ACL (first engine) to King because that was all we could get at the time and I thought nothing of it. Put the ACL's back in after a year of taking the pan off multiple times to change many things. Issue resolved. Can't believe it was just the bearings themselves all along. It has now been about two years since I drove the car on the street or had it at the track. At some point I had installed all solid and spherical bushings in the rear but had never aligned it since it just went on and off the dyno. Alignment was the first thing to do. (Old photo but same concept) Then I took the transmission out and went through it. This was my first gearset install and I've done about 15 since this one and learned a lot and wanted to apply some of these tweaks to mine. The aftermarket shift forks take very well to some modification and I wanted to make that change. Shifts are now super smooth and no having to find the gear. I also recut the 5th and reverse shift sleeves - always wanted to try this and see how well it works. It works very well! No grinds or having to do a second attempt going into reverse and 5th is perfect. Before During After Going back in In rummaging through my spare trans parts box I found the only parts I've ever broke on a stock trans; the 3-4 shift fork - twice!  
×
×
  • Create New...