Jump to content
SAU Community

Any Direct Injected 300gt / 250gt V35's?


Recommended Posts

First of all I was saying. If I start my car an put it in drive an slide it cross to tiptronic mode it would show 3rd gear but I have even move the car yet. I though it would suppose to be in 1st gear while stationary without moving the car. I need some direct injectors. Any body possible know where I could find it for the vq25dd v35 250gt skyline 2003. I have one leak direct injecting cause my car to run rich

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any body possible know where I could find it for the vq25dd v35 250gt skyline 2003. I have one leak direct injecting cause my car to run rich

Honestly, I don't know why, but you don't seem to be interested in listening to the advice you've been given in this forum. You're obviously well out of your depth. Your lack of gratitude for those that have helped, and inability to string a legible sentence together doesn't help.

Good luck. You're going to need a lot of it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have tried every diagnostic advice from many of you which cause ms spend alot of money. Seems that none of the advice is working. Yall have access to these cars, parts and other items that can assisted yall with ur car problems. These vq25dd are not familiar to were am live an for every advice I get possible it makes me spend money an nothing works. All am asking is a website that sell injectors for these cause because there is one cylinder that making the spark plug have a dry foul on it an that cylinder smell like fuel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Were I live everything GA a be order an shipped here. Parts are not available for these vq25dd an yall advice made me spend more money an these people who diagnosis the car stating no codes at all. About this one cylinder that causing a rich running engine misfire. It just one cylinder which I meet a bit of fuel left inside so I was suspecting leaking fuel injector.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So it's all our fault then? Where do you live? You haven't told us, and I didn't see anything in your profile.

I think you've been advised to get your injectors tested multiple times, but I don't think you've taken this advice. Unless you do, I'll bet this will end up in tears.

Edited by Spong
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It just one cylinder which I meet a bit of fuel left inside so I was suspecting leaking fuel injector.

But this is a DD engine.. so an injector that isn't closing fully isn't just going to have a 'run rich' issues like a non-direct injected engine.. you are going to end up with combustion pressures forcing their way through the leaking injector, back into the fuel rail and causing major issues overall, not just a fouled spark plug and poor economy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I live in the Bahamas. I change alot of plugs an everytime I change it. I get a misfire an its the same cylinder that causing it. An not it is the coils causing it

Why aren't the coils causing it?

Edited by Ben C34
Link to comment
Share on other sites

First of all I was saying. If I start my car an put it in drive an slide it cross to tiptronic mode it would show 3rd gear but I have even move the car yet. I though it would suppose to be in 1st gear while stationary without moving the car.

It only shows the highest gear you are allowing your gearbox to reach. The actual gear is not related to the display

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They brand new Nissan coils from Nissan Japan. OEM

So?

Have you tried swapping coils to see if the problem cylinder moves?

Who says your wiring is all good?

I would be checking that before messing with the injectors. But it's your call. Up until now this site has wasted your money.

Edited by Ben C34
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Everything yall saying I have test. I have already swap coils an plugs an problem still exist. I meet a little bit of fuel in that cylinder that causing the misfire. Then other five dry. Time to swap injectors to see if the problem persist in another cylinder

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Clarify the colour of the injector, and use EPCData to get yourself a part number, order through amayama.

Or get some alibaba injectors, that could be fun too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can order a minimum of five, and still be cheaper than factory.

Your looking at 330AUD each for genuine ones...

They might not be of the same quality however.

Up to you to take the choice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I live in the Bahamas. I change alot of plugs an everytime I change it. I get a misfire an its the same cylinder that causing it. An not it is the coils causing it

What plugs are you running, obviously not the correct quad earth's, they are impossible to find.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, yeah, no arguing that the duty cycle is different. And a circuit car will go to those speeds for more distance and longer times. But, I suspect that if a tailshaft has a harmonic problem, that it would cause damage and shit itself maybe even on the first pass. A second or two of running at the resonant/harmonic problem speed is already a couple hundred revolutions.
    • Shaft speed would be the same, however it's how long they hold it there for and repeated conditions. FWIW half way down the main straight at SMSP I'm bouncing off 4th with a 8600RPM limiter. That shaft would be spinning at 8600RPM for a few seconds before I need to smash the brakes, by T2 it's getting close to that speed again. Now a drag car/roll race car would see that shaft speed for a 1 to 2 secs then they would coast, hit the brakes and that's it.
    • With same diff ratio, tyre diameter and road speed, the tailshaft rpm is the same regardless of the gearbag's ratio. Given that very quick drag cars are probably doing similar road speeds to the fastest circuit cars (circa 300 km/h), and there will be many of either category that can't go that fast and so you'd have inummerable matchups between drag and circuit car speeds at smaller numbers, and given that they are probably using rather similar tyre diameters and probably using similar diff ratios, and...where any of those numbers were different they could quite easily be in opposite directions thus cancelling out.... I think you'd find that there'd be more similarity than difference in tailshaft speed between these two use cases, no?
    • they might see those prop shaft speeds for 1 to 2 secs only 
    • A year of slogging through this bearing issue and finally fixed. What a nightmare. The oil pressure increase did not fix the problem. If you would like to read all the details in case you ever run into a similar issue visit my thread on Yellow Bullet. https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/continuous-rod-bearing-issues.2689569/?post_id=74193031&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-74193031 In the end the rod bearings themselves were the issue. I had switched from ACL (first engine) to King because that was all we could get at the time and I thought nothing of it. Put the ACL's back in after a year of taking the pan off multiple times to change many things. Issue resolved. Can't believe it was just the bearings themselves all along. It has now been about two years since I drove the car on the street or had it at the track. At some point I had installed all solid and spherical bushings in the rear but had never aligned it since it just went on and off the dyno. Alignment was the first thing to do. (Old photo but same concept) Then I took the transmission out and went through it. This was my first gearset install and I've done about 15 since this one and learned a lot and wanted to apply some of these tweaks to mine. The aftermarket shift forks take very well to some modification and I wanted to make that change. Shifts are now super smooth and no having to find the gear. I also recut the 5th and reverse shift sleeves - always wanted to try this and see how well it works. It works very well! No grinds or having to do a second attempt going into reverse and 5th is perfect. Before During After Going back in In rummaging through my spare trans parts box I found the only parts I've ever broke on a stock trans; the 3-4 shift fork - twice!  
×
×
  • Create New...