Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy,

My M35 didn't come with a cargo barrier so I'm just wondering what my options are.

Firstly, if I was to source a factory one from japan, does anyone know roughly what price I'd be looking at?

Is it worth getting one made to fit locally instead?

I want one that is removeable. I was happy with the factory one in my s2 - I presume the M35 factory one is similar to that as I have similar hooks in the roof etc to clip it to.

The other thing I'm missing is the shopping cover - although I can probably live without that one since the windows are dark enough you cant see in the boot anyway.

Would be interested in hearing from anyone who has had a cargo barrier put in, or bought a factory one separately...

Cheers :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277946-m35-cargo-barrier/
Share on other sites

IM for the shopping cover.

I don't have one Steve, sorry... but you could always get RHDJapan to list the price of a new one if you don't want to go 2nd hand on IM.

RHD have better pricing on quite a few items (Nismo thermostat cost me $55 less for a new one delivered to my workplace through RHD than it did to get a second hand one via IM)... having said that, some of their stuff is ridiculously prices (Nismo bodykit for example).

May not be suitable for what you want, but I got one of those cheap(ish) ones that just extends to wedge itself between the floor and the roof from Autobarn. I realise it's not terribly strong (it's aluminium, not plastic), but it's only indended for keeping the dog off the leather. We're always taking it in and out to get the bikes / bed / other stuff in the back, and it's much more convenient than having to break out the spanners every time.

Was only $60 or something I think.

The factory one is quite clever with it's design.

* It can be extended to fit in to different locations in the boot. (telescopic)

* It can be stored either under the floor or as a basket below the roof.

* On either end the end caps are slotted so it can be locked into the trim on the outside linings of the boot. If you have a look in the fold out clips you will see that inside each clip it narrows and the barrier locks into this slot.

* it has straps in on the lower edge so it can be held in place using the loops on the floor.

If you can get one it is very good.

wonder if it's possible for nissan Aus to bring them in

Apparently not.

I gave FTG Nissan the part numbers for a price quote on the cargo barrier (H4935-AQ000) and the M35 car cover (K9001- AQ000), but was told if it is an accessory it cannot be brought in by a Nissan dealer as they are sourced locally in Japan and not "made" by Nissan.

Would be great if any of you guys would like to try Hornsby Nissan, just to double check that this is correct.

(Once I told him that I got the part numbers from my version of FAST, he was not happy so I figure I may not have been supplied with correct info)

Thanks for all the replies!!

I'll have another look under the boot but I'm well aware of the different sections under there and haven't seen it before - but I haven't been looking for that when I've had the floor pulled up either...

Is it in where the spare wheel is or is it in the other section further forward where the tools etc go? or maybe there's a 3rd compartment I wasn't aware of.

Failing that I will try to get hold of a factory one somehow. Was hoping to have something within 4 weeks (driving to adelaide) which probably wont be possible if i'm importing one...but we'll see how we go.

Out of interest is it something any importer would be able to source easily? I know the guy I imported my car through and he has offered to get me any parts I might need too - might be worth asking if he can get hold of this. If I have any luck I'll let you guys know.

it sits across the entire floor under the main floor section and the little side bits. youll know it if its there!

seriously if prices through those other people are expensive. try import monster. ive seen both beige and black colours in the last few weeks on there. and they will get it into the country within about 4 days.

it sits across the entire floor under the main floor section and the little side bits. youll know it if its there!

seriously if prices through those other people are expensive. try import monster. ive seen both beige and black colours in the last few weeks on there. and they will get it into the country within about 4 days.

sounds good, thanks!

try import monster. ive seen both beige and black colours in the last few weeks on there. and they will get it into the country within about 4 days.
sounds good, thanks!

You may want to confirm that it can be shipped via air.

You should be fine, bit it may be too long.

I just questions as I see it as between a strut bar and a front bar in size... and you cannot Air ship a front bar unless it is chopped in half.

(Especially poor is when you miss the container cutoff time by less than 2 days... D'oh!)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...