Plastic R33 Drift Lip / Boot Spoiler Painted White Ready To Bolt On Gts, Gts-t, Gtr
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How's your first born doing? 😛 As for now what? Time to forget about it for 12 to 18 months while your go down a totally unrelated rabbit hole... 😛 -
Fuse taps are perfectly fine to use, especially when you're adding stuff for your own car, and so long as you're being smart about it. IE, don't throw a 30amp circuit, onto a circuit that is only a small circuit. It's best to add a small circuit, to one that is already quite large. Oh, and make sure you're not going to blow the fuses that are further upstream too! I dislike their use in other applications, such as alarms, telematics/tracking devices etc, as it's far too easy for someone to unplug them and render a system useless. Those sorts of devices I go for wiring in quite secretively.
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By DraftySquash · Posted
Fob is all cleaned up and it’s working well!! The amount of Vegemite looking sh*t that was in there is mind blowing -
Given it is temporary, I bought a cheapy gauge mount (which has become enflattened) which I will screw into the existing phone mount Also a first for me; given this is a temporary install I could not think of any reason not to use one of those "add a fuse" thingies to source the battery and IGN power. I had always figured they were pretty dodgy but having a good look at them I think they are a valid option for sourcing power from an existing source without cutting -
Finally for now, a bit more work on the transmission temp gauge. I was wondering how Raceworks do a gauge for $100 that autometer want $500 for. No idea about the accuracy of course, but they have cut a few corners that made things hard. First one I mentioned above, the sender is physically difficult to fit and doesn't work with their own adapters (the extra fittings I used to get the sender into a hose cost more than the whole gauge, lucky I had stuff in the shed) Second, the temp sender wires are way too short. They are shown as 2.7m on the box and I know my routing was long from navigator headlight to driver's firewall back to centre console, but I had to lengthen them by about 2m total - 2 joins in each wire. Also, same with the supplied power loom, they needed about an extra 1m to get the fuse box where I sourced power. Another join in each wire since one end wasn't supplied terminated. I know they could argue that the wires might be long enough depending on situation, but when you consider parts and particularly labour, it would be a very expensive cheap gauge if you can't do the work yourself. And, only a small issue....but it would have been nice if they remembered to tap a tread onto *both* spacers they supplied for the bracket....I haven't had to use the M4 tap often!
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