Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cable ties farken :)

Looks good and +1 needs rear pods!

Pair of rear pods would struggle to weigh half a kg haha

the point of the car is for minimum weight. if you had seen the effort we have gone to every where elce on the car than .5kg is good weight to us. i totaly understand that most people fob off weight reduction but its one of thoes things that if you are going to do it you need to get really anal about it. no point getting half assed. and to be honest it is very noticable the difference we have found from driving this to all the other skylines we have as a group.

also on anther side note. Bens vision was to run the full nismo/N1 aero kit which never had rear pods. what most people think are N1 pods are actualy trust or other pods. the rear pods do nothing for the cars performance or aero so they are un-nessasary. this car was built with only nessasary items installed. also if you look at most modern TA cars the rear area behind the wheels is usualy cut out to help the air excape from behind the wheel. some teams run multiple wings behind them to help smooth the air but we cant do this.

the conclusion is, no pods it is.

I never wanted the pods before we got on the weight saving campain. I just have never liked them, plus they only hold water and make the rear 1/4 panel rust out (which i've already fixed one time to many)

I never wanted the pods before we got on the weight saving campain. I just have never liked them, plus they only hold water and make the rear 1/4 panel rust out (which i've already fixed one time to many)

Why did you bother with the type m side skirts then? A little weight in those too.

the point of the car is for minimum weight. if you had seen the effort we have gone to every where elce on the car than .5kg is good weight to us. i totaly understand that most people fob off weight reduction but its one of thoes things that if you are going to do it you need to get really anal about it. no point getting half assed. and to be honest it is very noticable the difference we have found from driving this to all the other skylines we have as a group.

also on anther side note. Bens vision was to run the full nismo/N1 aero kit which never had rear pods. what most people think are N1 pods are actualy trust or other pods. the rear pods do nothing for the cars performance or aero so they are un-nessasary. this car was built with only nessasary items installed. also if you look at most modern TA cars the rear area behind the wheels is usualy cut out to help the air excape from behind the wheel. some teams run multiple wings behind them to help smooth the air but we cant do this.

the conclusion is, no pods it is.

How much do you weigh? Taking a decent turd will loose you the half a kilogram... I love how 100kg plus people talk about weight reduction (not saying you are one of them) when if they just layed off some cheeseburgers they would be a lot better off :)

There is no "nismo/n1 aero kit" for a gts-t, you can get type-m side skirts and rear pods but n1 stuff is for gtr's. also there are no "n1 pods" for a r32 gtr, they are only trust pods which look similar to a gts-t's type-m rear pods

I never wanted the pods before we got on the weight saving campain. I just have never liked them, plus they only hold water and make the rear 1/4 panel rust out (which i've already fixed one time to many)

You could always just drill a drain hole in the bottom of them to disperse the water... I've never seen that issue on a 32 before. The only rust we see is rear 1/4 panels on the 4wd gts4's or gtr's

How much do you weigh? Taking a decent turd will loose you the half a kilogram... I love how 100kg plus people talk about weight reduction (not saying you are one of them) when if they just layed off some cheeseburgers they would be a lot better off :)

There is no "nismo/n1 aero kit" for a gts-t, you can get type-m side skirts and rear pods but n1 stuff is for gtr's. also there are no "n1 pods" for a r32 gtr, they are only trust pods which look similar to a gts-t's type-m rear pods

the idea was to make the N1 side skirts fit. im pretty sure we all know the difference between GTRs and Gts-ts. im pretty sure i already said there was no N1 pods but you must have read over that.

we have found one company that makes N1 style skirts to fit gtst but haven bothered as yet.

like i said before if your not into weight loss on a car than you will never get it. its a combination of many small parts that weigh half of f all that makes the difference. serious people will un-tack or cut off every un nessasary bracket and cut the extra length out of every bolt just to save 5kg over the whole car. most people think once they have removed the ac and back seat they have removed every thing they can. the point is weight is free power and free brakes. simple physics.

wrong.

see we rubbed all the paint off where the stickers were going then rubbed some of the metal back to save a few more grams.

this also ensured a seemless join between the sticker and original paint

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Updating results following our SR20det project. Data collected form improves future turbocharger making and high flowing services. So far differences between G and GT series turbine wheels, we are in the process of making a new turbine, the aim is for better mid top range flow without gain too much lag.  Result is back to back comparison of G25-660 and GTX2867 spec turbochargers on the same car, nothing changed apart from turbocharger. Both tuned to knock limit from pump 98 fuel (US Ron93). GTX2867 was about 400RPM more responsive making 255rwkws while G25-660 made 17 extra Kws with wider spread of torque after 4500RPM finishing off at 272rwkws.  
    • @GTSBoy i tried to jumper the wires and got the steering wheel light to come on which is right under the gear indication but that still doesnt come on.  Can it be an issue with my cluster?
    • Given that you have seen the dash indicator work briefly, then it would seem like you have a simple wiring problem. What happens when you simply jumper the wires on the "steering wheel switch"?
    • Yesterday's day in review: All the wiring to the lights up the front how I want it, is ran, terminated, and all to length. The only lighting up front I haven't finished is the side indicators, as I need to get to the partly cutup factory loom, and find the plugs for them. Interesting note, the side indicators use the exact same plug that's in the doors for something else that I don't remember what it is... So that plug better be careful...   Power steering solenoid, on the R33 is variable, and from memory PWM. The Ford's control from the docs I have so far, is it's just a on or off control. So I'm not sure it's what I want, and in any case, power steering running, but at its heaviest (solenoid off) is likely what I'll want anyway, so I'm not yet touching it at all. All the wiring I can complete so far, is done. There are 3 wires I need to make a plug for at the ECU, and these are just for the vehicle speed sensor, of which I need to get a T5 from an AU, so I can use its output that has the speed sensor on it. (My car doesn't have ABS, otherwise I'd set it up to use one of the ring gears on that). I need to buy new headlight globes and front parker globes, otherwise I could show photos of lights working. Current fuel lines in and out on this motor are "5/16". I'll order hardline, and some AN fittings for that, and I just need to 100% check fuel line size at the tank end, to get the ends for it. I'm also looking at a few options for the banjo bolts to AN fittings for the power steering rack. I'll pull the reservoir off the Barras PS pump. There's an off the shelf fitting for that pump for a -10 AN feed, and it'll use a 16mm to dash -6 an outlet to feed the rack. I'll be making my own power steering reservoir, I'm going through the thought process at the moment of how I'll run the baffles, and I need to research another idea for it too.
    • Two inlet runners changes the engines characteristics requiring less fuel to make torque at different points in the rev range. The smaller diameter inlet runners on the DET increases air flow speed, which improves atomisation of fuel, particularly in low load/idle for better burn, and in specific areas of the engine, (areas you would use when driving normally) increases the efficiency. All of those items change how efficient the engine is at different speeds. The changes on the neo help slightly to improve emissions where it matters. The overall improvements won't be the likes of going from an engine built in the 70s to an engine built in the 2000s, it's just a small step. But still leaves it the RB with the best chance of improvement.   As for your comment about the whole using a cat to not need to worry about those gases. Two things, no system is 100% perfect. It won't eliminate everything. So reduce the quantity you put into it, you still reduce the output. Two, make that system do less work, and it's likely to survive a little bit longer. Funnily enough to, one trick employed to get cats up to temp, AND to drastically reduce emissions before they get up to temp, is to reduce ignition timing.
×
×
  • Create New...