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regardless of gauges or no gauges we have simply offered up some free info that has taken time and money to get. we used 2 different examples ect ect. take from it what you like. we will take that its simply better not to have to change engines the night before or during events (which is when we have had to do the last 2) and if your half capible a simple mod to the sump will stop that.

ironicly - My old drift team mate spun a bearing the first time he drifted after fitting an oil cooler. i blame the cooler 100%

regardless of gauges or no gauges we have simply offered up some free info that has taken time and money to get. we used 2 different examples ect ect. take from it what you like. we will take that its simply better not to have to change engines the night before or during events (which is when we have had to do the last 2) and if your half capible a simple mod to the sump will stop that.

ironicly - My old drift team mate spun a bearing the first time he drifted after fitting an oil cooler. i blame the cooler 100%

You saying the cooler reduced the oil pressure to much?....

Woo aren't you installing one... Better touch wood!

The workshop putting together an external oil pump kit for me strongly advised against using an external filter block due to the poor design. Can't say I paid it much thought at the time given the number of folks running them but these guys do build a lot of race/drift motors.

The workshop putting together an external oil pump kit for me strongly advised against using an external filter block due to the poor design. Can't say I paid it much thought at the time given the number of folks running them but these guys do build a lot of race/drift motors.

Hypercry?

By external filter block you mean the block adapter or remote oil filter kit?

Also keen to know thoughts on the oil cooler causing failure!

I've got one coming with a built in thermostat

I think the comment was made with sarcasm... The same way the rest of us were taking the piss and blaming the gauges for wrecking motors...

  • 2 weeks later...

I've been a bit slack cause it's been too cold. But the replacment engine is pulled down to install the restrictor, and mod the sump.

P5290015.jpg

We had a high pitched squeel all event. We knew it was a boost leak, but considering everthing else we couldn't be bothered. After I pulled the car appart, I found the source of the leak. I had put a incorectly sized bolt clamp on, and it didn't seal evenly.

P5290016.jpg

still considering it, i'd like to have a good look at one of them. But Damo and I have worked out how to VVT a normal RB20 head, just would come down to funds, and if this new engine needs it.

Did you consider a secret handshake V-Cam RB20 :) or are there elegibility problems with running a later model head, series of engine?

i had a bit of a think tank and dragged a coupple of old heads and bits up from storage and worked out that if the gains were there to be had it was easy enough to make vvt work on a rb20 head. without modding the head. i took a bit of insperation from the HKS V-Cam and sussed it all out. i supose people just dont see the point developing rb20 engines but for us having to fit within engine size rules we have/ want to think outside the square.

i think the whole project is just bringing good ideas from everywhere and putting them on one car.

the super f1 spec engine is has actualy suprised us both in its designe.

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