Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

The car got moved on the weekend to start the Targa prep.

5D94842A-CFD5-42F1-BA4E-1D2313503CE6-326

I took it for a test run today to get reliability testing km into it. revalving of the rear shocks feels good, it should give much more confidence at speed on rough roads.

Hopefully we should get some testing time at Symmons this weekend

  • 4 weeks later...

Well it's been a busy past couple of weeks.

I decided to bypass the heater core to eliminate the possibility of slip heater hoses, I followed some advice on setting up how the coolent lines run from a local bloke who races a RB25. We have since found out that the coolent flows differently between a 25 and a 20, cause I over heated the engine and poped a head gasket. Luckily the head was still within the factory tolerances, so I only needed to replace the head gasket.

We got a good test day in on Saterday with 70 or so laps of Baskerville, the car is consistently lapping about 0.7 secs quicker a lap then last year.

46783919-0E3D-4638-886F-083BDEE47293-742

94A3E243-EFD2-47F9-96EE-BD4BEE86036F-742

well it appears on a 25 you don't need to loop the rear outlet, into the front inlet, so I just blocked the rear outlet. I have now looped the rear outlet into the front inlet.

The car with the 25 I copied the idea from is a very successful circuit car, and has done heaps of race km with the rear outlet blocked

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

I've been pretty lazy since Targa. I had the car out to a club day at Symmons Plains a couple of weeks after Targa, and dropped my pb down to 59.8. Since then the car has been sitting. But it will be back out for a hillclimb at the end of October.

Some pics from Targa this year:

1234007_539315442807121_1510853367_n.jpg

1239418_539314706140528_482773887_n.jpg

1185236_539314996140499_1555837574_n.jpg

1236684_539315159473816_56304496_n.jpg

Full Album

Edited by sav man
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I think the big inlet ports would make i laggier down low, and I wouldn't be able to run VCT in targa. I did have a good look at it, but I don't think it would be worth it.

I had the car out again last weekend, and I took over 1 second of my PB at Symmons Plains

Footage of me playing with a GT3 RS, and setting my new PB:

486660_10151810833372406_1056022473_n.jp

1452551_10151810832032406_507164168_n.jp

Edited by sav man
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I believe mine is helical and not clutch type. During drifting one wheel was spining as if it was open diff so bought kazz 1.5 way and has sat on my shelf for the past 5 years as I want to learn shiming process and do it myself   in meantime thought I change the diff oil hence post here. So any 75-90?   i am pretty sure r34 are helical not clutch lsd as standard . That is gtt ones
    • Throw between gears are so much that is getting annoying. I have pro short shifter on my mx5 and e36 and love it . Skyline is getting unbearable    would syncro issues and short shifter is no no? Anyone mind explaining a little on why before i buy cube
    • No. Well, some people "seem to use redline shockproof in the diff". Most do not. I would only contemplate it if you have badly worn CW&P gears. And no. No-one in their right mind has ever put ATF into a diff. Any normal diff/gear oil of the right viscosity will do. Whatever takes your fancy. Castrol, Nulon, Penrite, Redline MT range. Whatever. It's just gears. 75W-90 or 80W-90 is typical. I think that GL-5 is hard to avoid these days, although I think that a GL-4 is probably preferred, given the vintage of the equipment. At least Redline offer a number of GL-4 oils. If you have a clutch type LSD instead of the VLSD, then of course you need a proper LSD oil. Anything from any of the same names above. If you have a helical LSD, then it does not require LSD oil, and the recco is the same as for the VLSD. You don't want the LSD friction modifiers in the oil for a non-clutch type LSD if you can avoid it.  
    • You may want to list it up for a little higher - This price is much lower than you may realize. Here you're pretty much selling to people who most likely already have these things on their own rigs. S chassis people eat this stuff up like you'd not believe.
    • I had my car for over 10 years and done around few thousand miles but never changed the oil. thinking of changing it.   what brand and viscocity would you put in ? people seem to use redline shockproof in the diff   on  contraty seen others using atf dexron 2 or 3 so wanted to check. is it 1 liter?
×
×
  • Create New...